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I'm going to have to look into a spray-in solution, rather than the drop-in, and look into some of those versatile side panels people are installing. There's nothing I can do about this as-is. The truck may as well be a Miata, at the moment, for all the good that bed is doing me. I've got...

I'm not even going to argue, but I'll say I wouldn't kick a K&N filter for a thousand dollars.

As many features as this truck has, it wouldn't surprise me if you could connect a toaster to the input with dry spaghetti. The only problem is, it won't be documented anywhere.

Even as dealerships fail to adjust tire pressures, so do manufacturers fail to align the chassis. I'll be having my alignment checked when I rotate tires at a thousand miles.

I'll be interested in this information, as well. I'd like to fit Yellowstuff pads and a set of their rotors.

It can take a little longer for these tires to break in. Mine began behaving as intended around 600 miles, or so; but they're never going to be the best choice on the road.

EBC appears to offer their full catalog of pads and rotors for the Ranger Raptor: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/usa/FORD/Ranger%20Raptor%204WD/ I'll be making that call, soon. I'm considering Yellowstuff pads for this vehicle. They're the same pads I used to ensure my Discovery II would...

The cost to print a single manual for this vehicle, at retail, at 637 pages in length, is less than $57. The cost to print them at scale is reduced dramatically. There is no excuse to sell a vehicle without a printed manual. If the vehicle fails to function, so does it's digital manual. A...

My Dicovery 2 has GBR shafts, but I bought them long ago, before Tom Woods had one on the rack. These days I'd just call Woods first for pretty much anything.

Ford was kind enough to provide mounting points but, so far, I haven't seen much that utilizes them. This might be an example of someone trying to standardize something, but nobody else picking up the standard. I haven't looked up how much mass the stake pocket mounting points are meant to...

I tried Sport Mode a bit, but it was before the transmission was done learning, I believe. It was holding gears too long. I determined it was more of a track mode and just left it alone until break-in is done. It was winding things up too much for it's initial thousand miles.

I'd get your computers checked. 🤣

That's the simplest and most reliable option, as the owner doesn't have to do anything. There's no place for user error. Most places I've been in the US have a driveshaft shop within a reasonable distance. I'm not sure why, honestly. There must be a business case of which I am unaware...

From what I can recall, Woods will make just about anything you want; and it's high quality stuff. You'll need to spend some time measuring things, obviously. It's not 100% idiot-proof.

That's what I've got in the Raptor: A USB drive with FLAC files.

Leaving this crap on a car is like writing Payless on your Jordans.

That's what I'm going to do. I thought I'd be able to peel this right off without a hassle, but those buggers used the good stuff, and half of the letters are individually applied.

The step height looks fine for the vehicle, and the approach angle effect isn't limiting, given the breakover and departure angles. The price sure is right. They could be charging more for that. So far as the winch sticking out more, moving mass farther from the front axles increases leverage...

I'm going to keep a camera monopod in the glove box to push buttons on gates and things. 🤣

Break-in oil change complete at 648 miles. I'll swap it out at 2,000 miles to get it on an even schedule and begin using Amsoil at that time. I'm not getting an analysis done, as I forgot to ask them for a sample. I'll have to do that next time. Tomorrow I'll try to remove the dealership...