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Yep, that is what I did. Harbor Freight torque adapter and their cheapest 3/4” drive ratchet. I used the handle off of a floor jack as a cheater bar for it.

Yes, those are the right torque specs. The biggest challenge on tightening them is you are supposed to torque them down while the suspension is loaded( on the ground). To accomplish that I put the nuts on there somewhat loose and then lowered the truck and drove it up on ramps. Once on the ramps...

What brand of skid plates did you get? I weighed mine and weighed the stock plates I removed. The result was an 84lb weight gain. They were 3/16 steel RCI skid plates.

You can measure it however you want but, probably the most accurate is to measure from the middle of the fender down to the middle bottom of the rim and the subtract half of what the measured rim diameter is. Some just measure from the middle of the hub up to the fender which is fine to. Still...

These are the pictures I had on my phone. They just mostly show my new RCI skid plates. Not sure if that would be helpful for you or not.

No. I didn’t have that. Check your sensors. Maybe they didn’t get plugged in. I also saw on a YouTube video where a guy didn’t support the rear axle when he removed the rear struts and he busted one of the sensors due to over extension.

Mine came bent at the part that wraps around the bottom of the frame. I just took a sledgehammer and a block of wood to bend it back. Probably wouldn’t have happened had they not cut branding words out of the metal right there. It was definitely the weak point because that is right where the...

I used a 3/4” drive ratchet with a long cheater bar. I just got the cheap harbor freight ratchet and also purchased the torque adapter they have that will attach to the 3/4” drive ratchet. It was way less expensive than a real torque wrench that will go that high. Another thing to consider is...

Darn spell check! Meant to say Toyo RT Pro, not Toyota

Here you go. I have installed the 2” front and 1 inch rear. I am going to run the stock tires until they are used up and then plan to put Toyota RT pro 11.5” wide 35s on the stock rims. This is what it looks like now though. Keep in mind previously I had a 1 inch sag in the front due to steel...

Forgot to mention I ended up with 3/4” of Rake after all mods.

I just did the same thing. Ranger lifts 2:1. I was a little disappointed though that the rear lift spacer is actually 1/8” in thickness thinner than the goat offroad version. I do have about 100 lbs in the bed of the truck but I only got about a 1/2” of additional lift from the rear spacer. I...

Thanks for those details, good to know how the truck handles that extra unsprung weight. I thought it had plenty of power for them, just wondering how much extra fuel it takes. I agree with you on the decals. A tasteful amount is good.

Haha I just zoomed into your picture and saw you already had that 455 hp decal!

Looks great! That is the exact tire I was considering. That or the Mickey Thompson pizza cutter 255/85r17. Wish Mickey Thompson made it in an 11.5 wide. Just not sure how a 10 inch wide tire would look. Did you see a drastic drop of in fuel economy. I was wondering if the Toyos would be way...

I am also interested in this topic. I was thinking about running Mickey Thompson Baja boss at tires in the 255/85 r17 size ( often called pizza cutters) . I think they are as narrow as the stock KO3s but 34.5” tall. In theory you could run those with the 2:1 spacer lift and stock rims. I would...

This the quote I found online. " The 2024+ Ford Ranger Raptor comes equipped with linear rate springs from the factory, designed to provide consistent, predictable handling and performance with its Fox Live Valve suspension system, particularly in high-speed off-road conditions. While some...

I have read that the stock springs are linear rather than progressive and that linear springs are what the fox shocks were designed for. For that reason I am now considering the Eibach 1.5” front springs coupled with a 2 inch spacer. My sag is 1.25” so in theory I would only be .25” above the...

Are you running 35s with that setup? I have been debating between 2” or 1.5” spacer in the front. Also learned today that Eibach has a 1.5” spring for the front and a rear spring as well. I do tow a teardrop camper or carry a roof top tent or both and a super heavy camp fridge. I really don’t...

no kidding that video was super helpful. Looks like I should get the Geiser front springs (1.25” lift) and the 2” front spacers and 1 inch rear spacers if I want to run 35s. It’s crazy though how many posts I see only running springs. I guess if your not planning to run 35s that would be fine.