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I used your idea with the modeling clay and slaming the seat shut, but instead used they chemically reacting packing foam to measure the cavity of the storage bin, the stuff is called Instapak...

I didn't solve the mystery of the OE B&O tweeter channels. The wiring comes in from the head unit or something, not the B&O amp, yet Sync was smart enough to turn off the tweeters when I had the B&O amp disconnected. Beats me. I didn't need to solve this since I just ran new wires ~12" from...

Shockingly, the Alpine Type-R tweeters actually snapped in to the rings from the OE tweeter mounts! To be sure it was solid I hot glued them anyway, and decided to put in the foam rings behind them since Alpine provided them.

My unconventional sub enclosure seems to work so far. Rather than using the storage tub I decided to use the entire storage bin chassis itself, lined with asphalt deadening to block all the holes. Put a perimeter of foam in to seal the subwoofer baffle that I made down, which is a firm...

I was able to get the rear panel back in over the sound damping but had some trouble since the old retainer plugs aren't long enough anymore, I can't use them. I'll have to find some longer replacements. For now it's held in well enough from the top plastic piece and from being compression fit...

The rear speakers need tall foam rings like these using the Metra 825605 brackets. The front speakers are shown before I cut the foam down to about 1/2", not much is needed in front since the speakers are close to the door skin already. I mounted the component's crossovers in the hole in the...

18sqft of the asphalt aluminum back stuff was not enough. I used 20sqft for 4 doors, back wall, sub spot, and wish I had got more. The Noisco stuff is a lot thicker than Streetwire, and cheaper. Glad I went with them. 36sqft of the 150mil foam was plenty. In hindsight I would have just...

Yeah someone already posted that video, the guy did a really nice job making a guide. For the record the B&O sounds good by itself. I would highly recommend to anyone with that system that wants to stay stock but still upgrade to apply sound deadening to the doors and rear wall.

It's been a journey the last couple days. I decided behind the seat is too convoluted of a structure to build out of mdf, and that my gear in the larger under seat bin would fit in the spot where the stock sub was. So. The bin has been transformed into a sealed sub enclosure sealed with foam...

Here's the general dimensions of the B&O sub, if it helps anyone determine a shape or a volume. I'm still trying to decide what to build....

There are some fairly large voids and wasted volume behind the rear cabin backing. The whole panel back there tings like a tin can concert hall, this has got to be a huge source of noise left in the Ranger. I drove around with the seat out, backing panel off, and cabin vents exposed and there...

It fits together like a puzzle to get the OE amp and sub out, had to take off the back of the bench seat. This was just a couple T50 bolts and the seatbelt which was the same. The trim over the seat belt pops right off.

It's free air. I'm pretty sure my WT3 is toast, no amount of setup or adjustment can get it working better. I was surprised by Fs too, it's a lot high than expected.

Here are the thiele small (T/S) parameters of my Alpine S-W8D4. They are a bit different than the datasheet, but from the noisiness of my old WT3's measurements I'm not sure how accurate these are...

Here's the PAC APH-FD02 that will pigtail straight into the 5ch amp from the factory harness at the B&O amp, no extra wire needed, and will pass on Canbus to the Zen.

The B&O sub hugs the nooks and crannies so well that I don't think i can remove it without taking out the whole bench seat :shock:

Findings so far: - A thick foam gasket is needed behind the new speaker mounts. You can see in the pictures that the steel threaded insert that receives the screws sticks out from the door panel 1/16" or so, plus the countour of the panel itself. 1/8" weather stripping **barely** fills the...

Some pics. B&O speakers look like a lot going on. Mind you they are as cheaply made as possible to keep Ford afloat and try to turn a profit, and thus highly up-gradable, but there are a lot of small and important engineering here and in the door panels. Factory car audio has come a long way.

Started in with a rear door. Also pictured are the rear door speakers from the 2019 Ranger B&O, which are coaxials. The two extra pins are unused on the 4pin speaker plug, these are a normal coaxial taking a single full range amp channel. The Metra speaker brackets are shorter and not as...

Parts are trickling in, almost there. Decided to get some matching coaxials of the same vintage as the component speakers I plan to use. I was going to leave the B&O speakers in but I have decided to upgrade them all together and go with a single 5ch amp. This keeps all the b&o parts together...