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Well cool! Glad my buffoonery was valuable to someone else! :like::beer:

I would say mine are brighter, but that may be just because I notice them more.

And just to keep the thread alive, I noticed this week that I'm getting an occasional flare in 3-4 AND 4-5 now. It's not bad, and it usually only happens at part throttle, but I think this new symptom indicates it's getting worse, not better.

Except a catch can isn't just removing vaporized clean oil. It's removing (in theory) every vaporized compound in the crankcase, and most of those are VOCs along with any combustion byproduct that made it past the piston rings. Vaporized oil will contain many of the VOCs from blowby, and even...

The only way to accurately change your tire size is through a PCM data change. The Procal device that comes with the Ford Performance tune has the ability to write that information to the PCM in the form of revolutions per mile. And now that HP Tuners seems to have cracked the code for MG1...

I still haven't yet. I washed the truck a week or so ago and meant to install them to test, but I didn't. If/when I do get them tested - and provided they actually work to a certain degree - I'll be happy to sell them in sets with/without graphics.

Here's what I did: https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/threads/tonneau-that-doesnt-leak.15057/post-280666

Make triple sure you've got those top rails seated and aligned with the bed. When I installed one of these on my dad's GMC Canyon, I held pressure on each mount point as I tightened the bolts. Also, overtightening the mounting hardware will cause it to misalign, too. Just some tips I learned...

I can't get on board with that design for a couple of reasons. One, it drains back into the engine. The entire point of a catch can is to keep the vaporized funk and putrescence from the crankcase from being sucked into the intake system, and the secondary point is to collect it so it can be...

Can I play too? From a local car show last night…

You are correct. I had the best results by wedging my thumbnail between the male plug and female connector and pulling while sort of twisting my thumb and applying pressure. It’s hard to describe, but the correct place to out pressure on the connector is the wide side where you can see the two tabs.

Did you hit em from below or above?

Which setting/code did you use?

I just installed these and wired them like this: Used some thin double sided tape on the bottom of the lights to hold them in place. Drill holes in the right side of each of your three recesses in the grill and feed all the wires through there. You can cut off the included connectors before...

Not sure if this is helpful, but here are the actual TPMS sensors from a Ranger Raptor:

Link to the Ford letters on sale? EDIT: Never mind, I did what I should have done before and searched for it myself. Here's the link: https://www.ford.com/product/exterior-trim-kit-by-putco-tailgate-lettering-black-platinum-stainless-steel-p2947289417

I believe this setting in Forscan does enable the park lamps to come on with the DRLs, but that also means that the rear park lamps (tail lights) are on as well. Is that the case with your settings?

Perfect! I guess I didn’t know there was an option in Forscan to tie the side markers to the DRLs. I’ll look that up. Thanks!

During the amber DRL install, I also installed Signature Lux's amber grill lights. They look and work good, but for the sake of time, I wired them to my AUX1 switch. The switch stays on, so they're on when the truck is on, but I would like to wire them to something that turns them on when the...

There are two liners, inner and outer. The inner comes out first by removing all of the 7mm screws that hold them together plus a dozen or so of the plastic "screw-type" push pins. It will come all the way out and can be set aside. The outer liner is held by more of the plastic push pins and...