Trey's Magnetic Lariat FX4 "Rainier"

[Trey1940]

This is Rainier, my 2019 Ranger Lariat FX4. I figure I should start a build thread before this gets too out of hand, because in the 11 weeks from ordering to taking delivery, I've already filled my shed with stuff for it!

First Pic:

Current Pic:

The Truck:
-501A
-17" Magnetic Wheels
-FX4 Off-Road Package
-Trailer Tow Package
-Tough-Bed Bedliner

The Mods:
-Truxedo TruXport Tonneau Cover
-RokBlokz XL Mud Flaps
-Pro Comp 2" Leveling Kit
-Pro Comp Crash Bars
-FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers
-Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac 285/70R17 Load Range D Tires
-Lightforce Switch Fascia
-2m/70cm Mobile Radio w/ Browning 1/4 Wave Antenna
-Bushwacker Trail Armor Rocker Panels
-Baja Designs Squadron Sport Wide & Spot Driving Lights
-Forscan Mods
-Bambi Mode
-Instant Fuel Economy Gauge
-Climate in gauge cluster
-Tire size correction
Redarc Tow Pro Elite TBC

 

[Trey1940]

First things first: TruXedo TruXport Tonneau Cover

Install was super easy, took 15 minutes and 5 of them were looking for my tools. Directions are pretty straightforward, and it appears to seal the top of the bed pretty well.

 

[FULLSCALE]

Great looking truck! If you’re able to would you mind snapping some pics of the RokBlokz instructions and either sending them my way or posting them here? I’m thinking of ordering a set but would like to see how they attach first.

 

[Trey1940]

@FULLSCALE Thanks! Here ya go.

 

[FULLSCALE]

@Trey1940 thanks for posting those. More involved than I was expecting but it doesn’t look too bad at all! Let me know how the install goes and post up some pics when they’re on!

 

[Trey1940]

Up next: RokBlokz XL Mud Flaps, Pro Comp Leveling Kit & Crash Bars, and FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers

RokBlokz:
The install is much easier than the directions lead on, there are a lot of pieces to arrange before installation, but bolting them on is very simple. The XL flaps still cover the stock wheels, even with the 1.5" spacers.

FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers:
As easy as changing a tire. Hub bore is right on, bolts up perfectly. No vibration or change in handling, at least up to 97mph

Pro Comp Leveling Kit:
This turned out to be significantly more of a pain than I'd anticipated. Getting the control arms down far enough to get the struts back in after installation of the spacer was difficult, and I ended up popping the CV shaft out of one of the boots, which took some fussing and cussing to get back in. Once installed, it looks and drives great! If I were faced with doing this again, I'd have a shop with better tools than myself do it.

Pro Comp Crash Bars:
Not a difficult job, but time consuming. I removed the plastic piece on the front bumper to loosen the six bumper bolts, removed the ones from the side I was working on, and the crash bars slid right out. For the rear, I removed the two 10mm bolts from the fender on the pinch weld, and pulled out/rotated the bottom of the fender until I could slip the rear crash bars out and replace them. I DID break the lower tab on both of the plastic fender extensions getting them to un-seat from the fender, they pull DOWN and not out like regular clips. With the bolt on the bottom put back in place (removal/replacement of this bolt was required per the RokBlokz instructions), there's no gap and you can't tell that there's a missing tab.

 

[FULLSCALE]

Up next: RokBlokz XL Mud Flaps, Pro Comp Leveling Kit & Crash Bars, and FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers

RokBlokz:
The install is much easier than the directions lead on, there are a lot of pieces to arrange before installation, but bolting them on is very simple. The XL flaps still cover the stock wheels, even with the 1.5" spacers.

FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers:
As easy as changing a tire. Hub bore is right on, bolts up perfectly. No vibration or change in handling, at least up to 97mph

Pro Comp Leveling Kit:
This turned out to be significantly more of a pain than I'd anticipated. Getting the control arms down far enough to get the struts back in after installation of the spacer was difficult, and I ended up popping the CV shaft out of one of the boots, which took some fussing and cussing to get back in. Once installed, it looks and drives great! If I were faced with doing this again, I'd have a shop with better tools than myself do it.

Pro Comp Crash Bars:
Not a difficult job, but time consuming. I removed the plastic piece on the front bumper to loosen the six bumper bolts, removed the ones from the side I was working on, and the crash bars slid right out. For the rear, I removed the two 10mm bolts from the fender on the pinch weld, and pulled out/rotated the bottom of the fender until I could slip the rear crash bars out and replace them. I DID break the lower tab on both of the plastic fender extensions getting them to un-seat from the fender, they pull DOWN and not out like regular clips. With the bolt on the bottom put back in place (removal/replacement of this bolt was required per the RokBlokz instructions), there's no gap and you can't tell that there's a missing tab.

Thanks for the info! How much further do the XL’s stick out past the stock wheels with the spacers?

 

[Tony Giordano]

Up next: RokBlokz XL Mud Flaps, Pro Comp Leveling Kit & Crash Bars, and FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers

RokBlokz:
The install is much easier than the directions lead on, there are a lot of pieces to arrange before installation, but bolting them on is very simple. The XL flaps still cover the stock wheels, even with the 1.5" spacers.

FactionFab 1.5" Wheel Spacers:
As easy as changing a tire. Hub bore is right on, bolts up perfectly. No vibration or change in handling, at least up to 97mph

Pro Comp Leveling Kit:
This turned out to be significantly more of a pain than I'd anticipated. Getting the control arms down far enough to get the struts back in after installation of the spacer was difficult, and I ended up popping the CV shaft out of one of the boots, which took some fussing and cussing to get back in. Once installed, it looks and drives great! If I were faced with doing this again, I'd have a shop with better tools than myself do it.

Pro Comp Crash Bars:
Not a difficult job, but time consuming. I removed the plastic piece on the front bumper to loosen the six bumper bolts, removed the ones from the side I was working on, and the crash bars slid right out. For the rear, I removed the two 10mm bolts from the fender on the pinch weld, and pulled out/rotated the bottom of the fender until I could slip the rear crash bars out and replace them. I DID break the lower tab on both of the plastic fender extensions getting them to un-seat from the fender, they pull DOWN and not out like regular clips. With the bolt on the bottom put back in place (removal/replacement of this bolt was required per the RokBlokz instructions), there's no gap and you can't tell that there's a missing tab.

You have any side view shots to get a good look at level kit?

 

[Trey1940]

@FULLSCALE just barely! I don’t have a photo from the back, but here’s a picture of how mud hits them coming off the stock tires. Will be a lot closer to the edge of the flap with 285s.

 

[Trey1940]

@Tony Giordano Here's the best I have on hand, it gets dark too early nowadays!

 

[FULLSCALE]

@FULLSCALE just barely! I don’t have a photo from the back, but here’s a picture of how mud hits them coming off the stock tires. Will be a lot closer to the edge of the flap with 285s.

Thanks, that’s exactly what I wanted to see!

 

[Trey1940]

Starting the radio install with the scary stuff! Drilled out the roof to install the permanent antenna mount.

Installation is as easy as it gets. I removed the second row dome light to confirm there were no roof supports above it to work around, and used a magnetic mount antenna to match up the dome light hole to the roof on the outside. Once the magnetic antenna was where I wanted the permanent one, I marked where to drill, drilled a pilot hole, and used a step drill bit to open up the hole to the correct size.

(I deburred the hole after this picture was taken!)

Putting the mount directly over the interior light means I can get at the bottom without messing with the headliner. Current antenna is a Larsen NMO 2/70B, I'll probably get something more compact (and with a spring) for every day use.

 

[Trey1940]

Also swapped the Lariat grille for an XLT grille, thanks to @mrsmith

 

[Trey1940]

Part 2 of the radio install, remote faceplate, Lightforce switch fascia, and Magnetic Mic

The trick to getting the rear (furthest from windshield) of the dash tray to sit flush again is to take a flat plastic trim tool (NOT a screwdriver or anything metal) and wedge it in the seam between the leather part of the dash and the top of the nav screen surround. Point it towards the middle of the tray to brace the dash, so that the tabs can engage.

Installing the Lightforce fascia was as straightforward as the directions led on. Make sure when you install your switches that they're where you want them, they're very difficult to remove and swap once they're in! I haven't wired the backlighting up yet, will follow up when I install some driving lights.

I put the Magnetic Mic next to the shifter, the way the cable falls from the mic to the Lightforce panel, it doesn't interfere with any functions of the truck (who can resist a good handbrake turn?!) and it's within easy reach. When I'm not using the radio, I can unplug the mic and store it in the console.

To run the wire from the radio face down to the Lightforce fascia, I removed the vent to the left of the nav screen (comes off with clips), which made plenty of room to first run from the tray to the vent area, and then from the vent area to the lower portion of the center stack.

 

[Trey1940]

Ahh yes, that's the look. 285/70R17 Goodyear Duratrac Tires (load range D)

Aesthetically speaking, this completes the truck. Functional things like driving lights and a higher quality suspension are in the plan, but the mods will be less visible from here on in.

No rubbing on the high clearance crash bars, but they do rub on those little plastic air dams below the bumper with the 1.5" spacers. I'm eventually going to trim them, but it's only annoying when reversing. Driving 265mi from MA to NH, I averaged 17.5mpg with the stock tires and 17.7mpg with the Duratracs at 73mph and the speedometer corrected using Forscan. Same drive, similar weather, same route. Will update as I put more miles on it.

I also switched my trusty Larsen NMO 2/70B 1/2 wave antenna for a Browning 1/4 wave spring base antenna for every day use.

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