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You can buy an aftermarket harness from Curt. Another guy on here re-pinned the plug to accommodate the extra wires that are expected to be run to the front. The existing 4 pin harness plugs into the main harness behind the rear left wheel somewhere. You can plug into that and be good to go, as...

@superj were you able to turn those features on with your XL?

Oh that's the fun part. Since the bumper is just a plastic veneer and the space for the plug is stamped out in the metal behind it, you can just use the metal as your reference. Get a fine tooth keyhole saw or use a dremel with a rotary cutter, or you could even take a torch to a utility blade...

Great! I assume you were able to confirm that the stock wiring harness that the Curt plugs into already has the blue and red in line? I haven't confirmed yet but mine's a 2024 XL which does not have the stub in the front for a brake controller, which leads me to believe I have less robust...

Oh thanks for this! Visuals are super helpful. It looks here like you spliced every cable inline? So you cut the plug from the 4 pin, took it apart, pinned those wires into the Curt plug, then spliced all cables as well? Sorry to keep at you on this!

Thank you! I am going to jump on this and try your method. Seems smarter than running wires to the front when you already have power in the rear. I'll go ahead and grab an OEM 4/7 while I am at it. I may bug you again if I get stumped!

Definitely curious about taking your approach with splicing from the 4 pin to power the Curt harness. Are you the person that left the comment doing this method on etrailer.com? But I do want to keep 4 pin function and want the look and fit of OEM on the bumper.

Hey did you ever install the Ford 4/7 onto the Curt harness?

No info for you but as I’m also with a 24 xl and thinking about auto dim mirror, I’ll be following

I was under the impression the 2.0 has a semi closed deck?

This is an interesting outlook. Running any engine at the edge of its limit seems useful for discovering it's weak spots. Being in Mustangs would do that. Open deck does not seem an inherently bad idea, since it's prevalent in so many decent engines, but makes sense as a weak spot nonetheless -...

Honestly this looks superior from a mechanic perspective. I'd rather see a setup that favors ease for those guys. Besides, it's probably just a reverse of how it's put together in the first place.

Plastic cover, older engine. Mine was manufactured 11/24, purchased early 25, learned about the engine redesign weeks later. Oh well! Still curious if the warranty replacement means Ford will source an older style engine or find a way to put in the MPC.

When did Ford change the block design as seen in that second photo? These early failures were back in 2015 or so yes? Or is that photo from the 2025+ block?

Wowow! No good. I’ll be following. I have the same exact vehicle, and was bummed to learn of the engine redesign for 2025 right after getting my 24. Hopefully yours is an outlier. Any sense whether they will replace with another 1st gen motor or the redesigned MPC?

STX here. Everything’s too expensive these days, though I get that’s a personal perspective. These things are so loaded with tech these days I don’t much miss the upscale features.

So the plug you found behind the kick panel is essentially the same as everyone else, meaning you can plug the Redarc directly in, no splicing?

So did you hit a dead end with Ford on this?

Fascinating, standing by. This is encouraging! If this works out, I would love to see your parts list!

Are you an STX with no tow/low tow with no hitch and just the 4 pin? And you say you have that grey plug behind the kick panel? Have you taken steps to get anything installed?