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In my opinion, the sum of its parts does not equal the manufacturer's suggested retail price for the Lariat. Everything is plastic (especially this awful "premium" upholstery) and you can tell the bailout, failed "Green New Deal" and disastrous EV push has caused Ford to put out products like...

I've been experimenting with Sport, Eco and Normal for my work commute. Sport kind of feels like Charlie Chaplin is shifting my gears. The rough and delayed "kick-down" leaves A LOT to be desired.

I tried swapping fuses today and it appears to have not fixed the issue. How about you, still acting up?

I think you are right, Ranger brother. Thank you ?? EDIT: It was, in fact, NOT the fuse. Still not sure what's wrong.

Just as the title says, the wheel heater no longer functions. It got pretty hot when it was working for the few days it was cold enough. However, trying it the last couple of days and it doesn’t get warm at all. Anyone else experience this? ?

This has been plaguing me since day one and I've just chalked it up to the cheapness of parts and overall quality. Whether it's the doors not closing or this plastic "premium" upholstery, I can't help but feel offended that this is a $50k vehicle.

Thanks! I genuinely thought it was just to switch between the 2H/4H/4L “Drive Modes.” ??‍♂️ The Mustang’s drive modes are all available through steering wheel controls, I just thought I was missing something in the menus.

I barely spoke to the dealer, I just needed transportation and this was on the lot. What dial? The 2H/4H/4L? Sport Mode is in there? ?

I've had my truck for about a month now and I have no idea how people are changing "Drive Modes." I've got a 24 Ranger Lariat FX4 and I've never seen those options.

Also, this is the camera I used.

#26 (Spare) ACC #37 maybe 38 (Side Mirror, etc) BATT Important to note that my camera’s “park mode” does not work, but I don’t want to shave any fuses down right now so maybe I’ll attempt that in the future with a Micro 3.

Fuse box was easier than channeling the wire, tbh. I have zero electrical skills aside from "trial and error." And the fuse taps that come with the kit make it plug and play. (Unfortunately the fuse box can seem daunting, but it really isn't) I'll get a clear photo of the fuses I tapped later on.

I'll put together a small "how-to" after work, so come back to this thread later tonight and I'll have a decent explanation of what I did and what I used to do it.

I'm such a terrible documentarian, I always intend to take photos but I end up never taking any breaks and just work until I'm done. Here’s a couple (in progress and completed) Will update you further after I get off work tonight at 6pm EST.

I'm not sure how you're planning on running the cable, but the fuse box install was so ridiculously easy that I actually think it might be more difficult to run a wire to the USB. I got the 15 dollar hardwire dash kit off Amazon and did it myself in less than an hour.

To be fair, circumventing any factory spec is a bad idea. So Ford can, and probably will, look for any reason to reduce their responsibility in the event something goes wrong. Whether you're using FORScan or disconnecting the BMS physically. Here's a good video about it.

Just unplug the Auto Start/Stop sensor from the negative battery cable under the hood.