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I didn't see a thread on this already. Apologies if my search-fu just sucks. It's totally possible. Anyway, received notification that inspection and software remedy are available for this, but parts are not available. Which is fine. Inspection, update, low likelihood of parts needing to be...

@AdventureLab - hopefully that helps figure this out.

Hence getting some more precise measurements from folks.

It's just odd how some folks have no issues and some are really tight. Really wonder where the deviation is.

Do you have calipers that can get a more accurate measurement? There really shouldn't be this much variation in trucks. I mentioned before, but mine did need a solid whack to seat. It's probably never coming out, but it worked great.

On the subject of the bolts... they are NOT regular Torx. They are Torx PLUS. It makes a difference. You really need to make sure you clear out any bed liner material from them, too. Ensure your bit is seated all the way. Go slow. Replacements are cheap from Ford at least. I bought four of them...

I basically did the same thing as this guy - CLICK Used the same Home Depot washer. I actually have an extra I'd be happy to send you for no money. I will never need it. WASHER Considering replacing the ARB switch with a marine rated one since I don't have a cover or anything on my bed...

Gotcha. The SDHQ one doesn't require a hole to be drilled anywhere. Used all stock mounting points, and has a protective shield. It was a pain, and I don't want to have to take it out, but it isn't too awful. I did put the switch in the same spot you did. But not having the 12v allowed me to...

Isn't it more of a trapezoid? I bought a metal sign and plan on cutting a few pieces out of it, spraying with rubberized undercoat, and bolting between the mount and side step.

I just installed my ARB twin this weekend. In my case I used the SDHQ bed mount that puts the compressor behind the left rear tire in the cavity between the bedsides. Pain in the butt in some spots, but worked out well. I also relocated the air intakes to behind the left tail light. OP, any...

Doing this now on a 2025, and it does not have the 12v outlet in the bed, so gotta find me a 12v source. Otherwise, great write-up. EDIT: Forget what I said. I done figured it out. The 12v still runs to the bed side of the harness. Noice.

I also thought the connector would not fit, until I gave it a solid smack. Then it popped right in, and fits perfect. It's tight, but you just have to get a bit rough with it.

I got a dealer to do the tune for $275. Bit more than I'd like to pay, but it's fine. Tuner itself was bought with points.

No worries. I'm sure the Blue level doesn't cost the dealer anything, but the higher tiers do.

Blue Oval Certified vehicles only receive a 90-day or 4,000 mile warranty. It's really nothing special. Gold Certified does have a longer warranty. https://www.ford.com/used/about-certified/ford-blue-advantage/?intcmp=cpo-cta-cpo-fba

That looks like their base tier of used car certification. Very 'meh'. Bummer. I had never had the need to look at their certified program until right now. Even so, I'd go 2025, add an extended warranty, and send the f out of it.

A couple other things that might push you towards the 2025: ProCal has an EO for the 2025 model year already. Unclear when 2026 will get it's EO. Ford pulled the ole "yeah, it's only $1,000 more, but look how much less you get" and yanked a few things - turn signals in the mirrors (very nice to...

You'll know immediately. But the screen will look like that regardless. It just shows that the credit was used for your vehicle. You cal always hook the handheld up and check.

Installed on Wednesday. Oh man, it's just that much better now.

You're probably right on the MAP sensor. Would make sense. I did not do more than cursory (poor) 'research.' Basic concepts still apply with regards to what the ECU assumes.