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There’s also the UPR unit along with the Ronin. Just another option. Basically the same thing just a mildly different style. The UPR has given me zero issues. Worth every dime i.m.h.o.

Pabst Blue Ribbon - Union Made! ………..or at least it is/was while produced in Milwaukee. Just recently read some cans saying produced in St. Louis……please don’t tell me A.B. took over PBR from the Miller umbrella. No Dammit! Then it might become a scab beer. Same damn thing happened to Rainier &...

Holy crap! This is EXACTLY what I need! I’ve got a 90lb. Doberman that gets awfully pushy onto the center console after a long period of time cruising. Dobie paws are huge along with that chest & head and to say the sucker is strong is an understatement. Not always the safest to be tug-a-waring...

HF Daytona 3 ton Long Reach. Works like a champ! Zero strain. Honestly my favorite way to work uunder the truck is to completely drive it up on 4 x 12 ton ramps. Gets the entire truck 6 1/2” higher and level. Makes crawling around underneath it a breeze. I just use the jack & stands to work on...

Here’s how I mounted mine. I stand corrected from earlier, I used 3/8” x 2” TEK screws & 3/4” ss fenders not 5/16”. Nothing through to the exterior. It stays put and doesn’t rattle or reverberate under heavy bass.

You can only drill along the front and left side. That’s the only place where the flange exists with tub void underneath. Towards the back and you’re drilling through the truck. I’ll post pic later once I’m home.

I have the Stealthtech box with a Hertz pro 10” sub powered by a Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.1 & Kicker Keyloc and after a couple weeks I ended up screwing the box into the sheet metal flange of the rear tub. Ended up using heavy 5/16” coated TEK screws (self tappers) & 3/4” stainless fender...

Another thought if you’re handy and also a huge 2 for 1. Drop the headliner and sound deaden the roof and run your wiring. Just something to consider.

SGS sent a set of RCA male x male cables from JL Audio with my purchase as well, but I opted for a better/beefier set. They come in the kit if you order the harness kit and pre-programmed Keyloc for the Ranger interior. Did you get the kit or just the individual Keyloc on its own?

Sorry, my mistake mine was a Gold level. I didn’t realize there were different levels. I received the extra year a warranty & whatnot. Sorry for the confusion. It was back in September. Made more sense than a new one at the time.

I bought my 2025 RR with 1,100 miles on it which was BOC from a Ford dealership. The 139 point inspection you may gloss over but what you shouldn’t is what Blue Oval Certified also gets you. In that inspection they must do an oil change and it gets you a 4th year of warranty! It’s in the BOC...

3.49% for 48 months via Idaho CU last September here in WA State. Gave me 40K trade-in on my F-150 & tossed in another $5K. Payments are under $400/month but pay $600 to pay it off quicker.

Nice find!!

As Westrescue77 said above : VINYL FLOORS / carpet delete option 100%

Weathertechs! Fit like a glove, low profile, my windows never bounce back down on the auto up, and Made in America!

That’s one good lookin’ XLT! The stance & the rake are just right. Don’t change a thing. Looks perfect!

I landed it in at the remote turn-on terminal at the Fosgate amp. So basically that one wire comes to the back and splits at the amp. Figured it’s just a switched low amp signal just to turn on & off so there’d be no harm in daisy chaining them together. Hence why the wire gauge is so small...

No problem

Yep! Very similar to what I did above. That’s how you’ve gotta do it. The Keyloc is its own device and needs dedicated power & switched wires & a ground to do it. That’s the blue, black, yellow harness in the SGS kit. The plug & play harness is strictly factory signal by-pass & redirection.