Intercooler comparison - stock spot vs big chungus

[ericwmedic]

I'm looking to eventually max out my credit card take the next step performance wise and really piss off my wife upgrade my intercooler. The US manufacturers seem to be behind the curve compared to the Aussies and Kiwis, and they've only released stock location version. If I wanted to go with the big "stage 2" unit, it's a choice between DSR or Process West.

I'm not planning on changing the front bumper or installing a winch, so it's not a matter of having an air path for the intercooler. Flabberdoopin did a good explanation on how the backside ducting on the stock location (at least with the Wagner unit) can help pull air through at low speeds. My use-case is about 90% on-road/ spirited daily driving, 5% mild forest trails, 5% sand dunes.

I'm not entirely sold on either setup, so I'm hoping that someone with more smarts on these trucks can help with my decision. My only performance mods as of now are a 93/ E30 tune from EMS Motorsports and a K&N intake/ crossover.

Pros/cons?

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[pablo94sc]

I'm leaning towards the DSR intercooler, but I also want the ability to add a winch tucked into the bumper. I've been trying to find similar universal ICs that'll fit as well, even if that requires custom hot side pipes (easy enough).

What I really want, though, is having enough room behind the core to install IC fans. I'm a big fan (no pun intended) of keeping heat soak at bay.

 

[Buellsox]

If you’re dead set on the massive Stage 2 then some of this won’t pertain to you. But here’s the setup I went with and it’s been bulletproof for 7.5K miles and makes this truck RIP!

* Check out CVF (out of FL I believe - could be wrong) I went with their Stage 1 I.C. and turbo pipe kit. The whole system went in smooth and my I.C. install retained the factory scoop in the rear as well and bolted in using all factory points = super easy. I opted for the black to darken out the grill area. The turbo pipe kit takes some fussing with to get them from leaning on anything that’s moving or in revolution (pulleys, etc) but I had it perfect after 2 short rides around the neighborhood. None of them have moved since.
* Ford Pro-Cal Tune
* AFE pro DRY s air filter in the stock air box / no oily a/f right at starting point of the turbos.
* Process West crossover pipe
* IAG dual side heated catch can (catches BOTH valve covers)
* Borla ATAK series stainless exhaust system from the cats back - not just the tips. With black outlets and yes it retains the 4 factory sound options. You just need to swap the muffler servos over to the new Borla assy.

Truck RIPS! How much……can’t quite tell ya as I started doing this stuff the moment it came home new. And every piece of this, minus loading the software tune, I did myself in the driveway with the truck on 4 ramps or hovering into the engine bay with good ol’ USA forged Craftsman (the Sears stuff) hand tools - no air.
Setup hasn’t given me any grief or heartache. And I too run 95+% city. Love it! Hope this helps!

 

[Raptor Family]

I can say this—if you change your mind and have to buy a conversion charge pipe set to change your PW stage 1 to Stage 2, it costs $280 shipped from PW in Australia. And then the $1600 for the IC. I think “buy once, cry once”, applies. A lot of people have claimed the stage 2 causes turbo lag—which my Dyno charts do not show—in fact—they show the opposite. The PW stage 2 is about 2 3/4” thick (which is thinner that the factory 3.12” thick one). Most stage 1 aftermarket ICs are about 5” or more thick. The stage 2 is huge in area and almost as large as the radiator.

I know you said you were not considering a winch, but maybe some other viewers might. I was considering a hidden winch mount behind the stock bumper. With the stage 2 (at almost half the thickness 2.75” to 5”) the stage 1 thickness encroaches on the space a winch would be located. Stage 2 required removing the IC shutters which opened up room on North American models—Aussie versions don’t have. When I measured it, there was plenty of room in all directions with the stage 2 and a flat-top (relocated relay box) hiding the winch behind stock bumper.
Pics if Dyno sheet shows no real turbo lag-the 250rpm difference is not due to the stage 2 as much as it is the larger Powermax turbos used on both the blue and green runs in the Dyno below—that larger intercooler does not heat soak in the 100-105 degree Texas heat. It really shows the inadequacy of the factory IC

The blue truck with the entire front end removed, shows just how big the stage 2 actually is. The other pics, though not really asked for, show how much room there is with a stock intercooler—almost all stage 1 ICs are twice as wide as the stage 2, and at least 2” wider than factory IC.
Remember the rules: For every 10 degrees you can reduce the intake charge temperature, you can increase horsepower by 1%. I have seen at least 40-50 degree minimum difference between intake charge temps between stage 2 with Powermax and stock —with complete heat soak (I wish I would have recorded better numbers and with the stock intercooler and Larger turbos—but logistics just didn’t allow it). That is free power (15-20hp and with ethanol as much as 35) gained from efficiency and allowing more timing advance and more boost. My fuel mileage increased almost 1mpg after modification.

 

[Lion77]

If your planning on upgrading to big turbo's and your after maximum sustained power, then a race style stage 2 makes sense. Outside of a completely built engine + hot lapping it, I see ZERO benefit from Stage 2 IC's, especially on stock turbos.

Pressure drop / cooling ratio is really important for turbocharger durability. Increasing pressure drop, even if your lower charge temps, will create more back pressure on the exhaust side and run the turbos outside of their efficiency island more frequently which is going to shorten their lifespan. Really big IC's have a LOT of internal turbulence which causes higher pressure drop.

Then there's drivability issues, you'll have more lag on-throttle with really big stage 2 IC's. Even the Ranger Raptor Race truck didn't use a stage 2 size (note that was on a stock calibration per class rules), they used a PWR "drop in" style, basically slightly bigger than OE for better sustained cooling, but not massive.

Don't overthink it, more bigger better is not always actually better. There's a balance. For stock turbo's, even with a cal, I highly suggest the CP-E Delta core, it focuses on maximum efficiency to use the core more effectively, they have internal turbulence fins to even out the air flow across the core that others don't and a very good fine density, internal volume is bigger than stock, but not as big as some of the others because it doesn't need to be to achieve similar pressure drop and charge temps.

That preserves stock-like response. I've driven laggy turbo cars, and it gets old fast if you daily drive them, but maybe if you do a lot of highway, it's not a big issue or it's a weekend toy. Stage 2's make sense for build bottom ends (rods, pistons, injectors, custom cal, big turbos etc.), but not for stock engines / turbos.

 

[ericwmedic]

@Raptor Family
I think that was my biggest concern was the overall size of the Stage 2 (internal volume) vs the stage 1 style. The stage 2s seem better at getting more area out from behind structures like the bumper, potentially a winch/ lightbar, etc. and bringing that area into airflow.

I'm likely never going to throw on a "big turbo" setup. The numbers from a Garrett FBO truck are impressive, but I'd reach the bottom of my wallet long before I reach the top of the dyno charts. In my use-case, the stage 1 sounds fine.
But then... there's always room to upgrade if I just get the stage 2. And if the stock turbos happen to burn up, it'll give me an excuse to tell the wifey why I need to drop another $4k on the truck.

 

[got3fords]

Did you change out your exhaust tips? To what?

 

[Buellsox]

Did you change out your exhaust tips? To what?

Yes! I went with the Borla ATAK series complete cat back system which consists of both the kits listed. But you can opt just for doing the rear tail pipe kit with black outlets. I did the complete system myself with the truck on 4 ramps in just 2-3 hours. The Borla system is top tier and utilizes every factory hanger exactly as the stock did. Truly a remove & replace and a crawl back under and re-tighten the clamps a couple of times as it broke in over a couple weeks.

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