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Premium fuel is required to achieve the advertised hp of 405. You can run 87 octane but you won't get 405 hp without premium fuel.

If you do the smoked 3rd brake light.... I'd like to see 3 red marker lights on the 3rd brake light like the F150 raptors have.

I thought I would end up losing one or more. I dropped one but it fell right down through onto the garage floor. However, I dropped one of my T15 bits after I already had the fender liner all buttoned back up and the wheel back on so I said oh well that one is gone. I found it in the driveway a...

I tapered down the rear of the housings to make them fit.

I don't want to drill holes either, so I think I'm gonna go with the Ford bed extender. I miss not having one. My 2014 F150 came with a bed extender then I transferred it to my 2017 Raptor then I transferred it to my 2020 Raptor and I let it go when I traded for my 2024 Ranger Raptor.

I don't think it would help or give you better access to the DRL modules. Maybe I'm wrong? It was about 8 or 9 months ago when I removed my grill to install lights and I just did the amber DRL swap 2 weeks ago. So my memory is a little foggy on what it looked like with the grill removed.

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I thought about removing the horn as well. But with the felxible tool it wasn't too hard to just work around it.

A bit off topic but..... there was a guy on the F150 forum that traded his 2.7 F150 in with 460,000 miles. I think the only issue he ever had was he had to replace 1 sensor. But @ 460K the transmission was starting to act flakey so he decided it was time to trade it.

The stock tow hooks have brackets on the inboard side to support the intercooler. It looks like that kit from Rival4x4 comes with brackets that addresses that issue.

I hear that sound everyday when my neighbor starts their Expedition 3.5 ecoboost. Fortunately my Ranger Raptor doesn't do it and it has 16,000 miles.

Now you're getting into negative offsets which poke out even further...... minus 12 and minus 25. You need a positive offset probably +18, +25 or +35.

You still have to hit a button after you start the truck, but not the start/stop button.

In one of the other threads Wimbo recommended having forceps. I bought a 2 pack from ebay that came with 8" and 10" forceps. Those came in handy holding the module housing steady while trying to unplug and plug in the harness and to hold the housing in place while trying to put the screws back in.

I thought it would help but my fender didn't want to move as far as his did and I didn't want to force it. I didn't even try to loosen the passenger side because it didn't help on the driver side. What made it a little easier for me is I had my truck on my lift and removed the front wheels. That...

It's only $284.04 at tascaparts. 🙂 https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-tray-n1vz26045c22aa

Did you get the stealth sidemarker overlays? They look sort of a matte finish in your pic.

Did you use Nite Shades on the marker lights?

Thanks to everyone for the helpful hints. I got mine done yesterday. When I finished it was raining and not dark enough for night pics so all I could get was a couple garage pics.

I've read about a few people getting them for free. But for most you had to buy a topper from Ford to get the j-braces free and installed for free.