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Oil choice now that Pennzoil UP changed its formulation.

BradleyC

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Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 fill synthetic, and you can print off a $20.00 dollar coupon right now online. Meets Ford Requirements.
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surfstar

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Doesn't matter as long as you change the oil every 500 miles.

Remember, oil is cheap (well, less cheap now), engines are not.

Can never be too safe - change your oil like you change your underwear - weekly.
 

Mystic

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Doesn't matter as long as you change the oil every 500 miles.

Remember, oil is cheap (well, less cheap now), engines are not.

Can never be too safe - change your oil like you change your underwear - weekly.
Yes! You can never change your oil often enough. This guy knows what he's talking about.

Remember, if you're doing your own oil changes, make sure to dispose of the used oil properly.

I always use this method when I do my oil changes with Rotella T6 15W-40. My property is on a hill, so I always dispose of it toward the downhill edge. It drains away from the house, so I’ve never had any issues.

Ford Ranger Oil choice now that Pennzoil UP changed its formulation. popular_science_oil_disposal_fullsize
 
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surfstar

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Yes! You can never change your oil often enough. This guy knows what he's talking about.

Remember, if you're doing your own oil changes, make sure to dispose of the used oil properly.

I always use this method when I do my oil changes with Rotella T6 15W-40. My property is on a hill, so I always dispose of it toward the downhill edge. It drains away from the house, so I’ve never had any issues.

popular_science_oil_disposal_fullsize.jpg
It's renewable! After a few years you can just pump it back out of the ground. Genius.
 

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got3fords

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Alright, you guys convinced me the Rotella probably isn't ideal. I did some more research and I'm going to switch to Mercury 25W-40 marine oil next change. It's specifically formulated for high-output engines operating under sustained load, so it seems like a better fit for the Raptor.

I understand it's marketed for marine use, but the engine doesn't know it's not in a boat. :sunglasses:
I hope you jest!
 

Mystic

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I hope you jest!

:wink:

Edit: to be clear, I enjoy trolling oil threads (the only oil you should be using is whatever the OEM says). The unhinged reactions are usually priceless. On the F-150 forums or similar there would be a raging mob all over me at this point. The key is doing it absolutely deadpan, and acting like you're just really misguided but taking suggestions seriously, and then doing it wrong anyways.

Like:

“Interesting points. Maybe I'll compromise and switch to 10W-40 next change.”

or if someone suggests reading the owner's manual:

“yeah I saw that. Manuals are written for the average owner.”

Other great options:
Straight 50 - "Ford’s recommendation assumes emissions compliance and average drivers. I run mine HARD.”
10W-40 Motorcycle oil: “Higher zinc content protects the turbos.”
ATF: "Old mechanic's trick. Keeps the VCT passages clean"
SAE 30 Non-detergent: "I don't trust all these viscosity modifiers...better to keep it simple"
 
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landiscarrier

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My main issues is coking the turbo bearings. We want an oil that does not burn off under high heat. The PUP had that property.
Mass produced turbo engines have been around since 1962. Any name brand oil that meets Ford specs will more then adequately protect your engine and turbo. Just change it on a regular basis.
 

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jordantii

jordantii

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Mass produced turbo engines have been around since 1962. Any name brand oil that meets Ford specs will more then adequately protect your engine and turbo. Just change it on a regular basis.
That's true but these engines run much hotter than engines of old. Seeing oil and water temperatures over 200 as normal these days is a major change. Oil needs to have a higher thermal capacity these days.
 

NASSTY

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The good shit?
Yes, I bought 6 jugs online from Walmart about 8 months ago. My local Walmart stopped carrying it in store a few years ago. The other day I noticed Walmart has it in store again, but it's the new stuff.
 

bigb

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I stocked up a while back but didn't know about the change in the UP. I just went and checked my bottles and they are the new stuff.
I agree an oil that can hold up to the high EOT these engines see is a good thing, however I think the most important factor is OCI. Lots of oil starts out good but starts to degrade from thermal breakdown, changing it before the thermal breakdown compromises it's lubrication properties is the goal.
 
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jordantii

jordantii

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I stocked up a while back but didn't know about the change in the UP. I just went and checked my bottles and they are the new stuff.
I agree an oil that can hold up to the high EOT these engines see is a good thing, however I think the most important factor is OCI. Lots of oil starts out good but starts to degrade from thermal breakdown, changing it before the thermal breakdown compromises it's lubrication properties is the goal.
Agree. Now I would love to see how the MC FS performs on an oil analysis.
 

hand-filer

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My question is, why use something other than MC 5W-30 FS? I get that people want to save money, but at the end of the day, is it worth unintended consequences?
It's not about saving money. Some of us prefer using superior lubricants like Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 for example.
It has the following approvals:
GM dexosR
MB-Approval 229.51
MB-Approval 229.52
Porsche C30
VW 504 00
VW 507 00
API SQ
It bests MC 5W-30 FS in every performance metric.
Mobil ESP 1 0W-30 has even better properties but is not API SQ certified. It does however meet API SQ Engine Test requirements.
And yes it's compatible with wet belts.
Mobil 1™ ESP 5W-30
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