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superj

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I thought people were trying to keep the moisture and particulates out of their enigines though? All that watery junk just goes back into the sump to get pumped through the oiling system?

I am ok with it being burned. I wish i had the dual injection system instead of the di system. I have the worst set up with mine coking the valves and seat ramps up
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RCMUSTANG

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It does not go back into the sump. Just like every other separator is meant to be emptied. How could it go back to the crankcase when it's plumbed to the intake system?
 

Lion77

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Mitigation strategies that I've found to be effective on DI engines:

1. Use OE paper filters (or equivalent). Keeping dust contamination of the intake and upper cylinder group is critical to ring wear and preventing abrasive "grit buildup' on the intake valves. The fine dust mixes with oil vapor / sludge and creates an abrasive grime (ahem, K&N filters which allow more fine dust particulates).

2. Use Top Tier fuel stations (all grades of fuel have same additive packages at Top Tier stations, you don't need 91 unless your vehicle requires it obviously, like my Pro Cal tuned RR, but all grades have the same detergent packages). Top Tier fuels reduce carbon buildup from the fuel even on DI engines, AAA's testing after tear down showed around 19x less buildup when using Top Tier fuels. I would guess they might also have fewer impurities.

Top Tier was a program started by several big auto mfg.'s like Toyota as they saw issues with the minimum Federal fuel quality standards. AAA study finds Top Tier gas brands offer big advantages

Fuel-Quality-Full-Report.pdf

Note that one of their test engines was a Port Injected V8, port injection DID NOT SAVE that engine from high carbon buildup on the intake and valves! Yes it can help, but without good quality detergents in the fuel, it doesn't do much...so why does Top Tier benefit DI engines?

For one it keeps your injection system much cleaner, so you get cleaner burns, there is about 19x less carbon AVAILABLE to contaminate the intake valves which don't get cleaned like in a PI system, so carbon contamination is even more important in DI engines. Really, the name of the game with DI is just keep it clean. Change you oil regularly, use good oil, stock with OE paper filters and use Top Tier fuels. That simple!

Premium Fuel Study (remember, it's not the octane rating that makes a fuel Top Tier. Octane is engine design specific, so a tuned truck will always need premium, but stock trucks that can run on 87 can still use Top Tier brands and have the same benefits).

3. Synthetic oils. Lowers vaporization rate due to better base stock quality. Also in turbo engines, they really help limit any gumming up of the piston rings and timing chain tensioners that are prone to sticking from sludge in blended oil base stocks due to thermal breakdown: Valvoline: Testing Oils for Over 4 Years and 1 Million Miles

4. Maybe at 100k, do an induction cleaning service (chemical, not walnut shell blasting, no disassembly required).

5. Avoid short cycles, aka try to avoid driving frequently on short trips under 10 miles, when you frequently short cycle the engine, buildup occurs much more rapidly because you're never purging the engine fully of moisture that builds up on the cool down cycle.

6. DLC Films, they provide better piston ring seal and reduce oil vaporization by limiting localized heating between bearing surfaces, including the ring to cylinder wall contact area. Who doesn't want super lubricity with a traction coefficient of 0.01 and lower oil consumption rates? I've been using this tech since 2019, take a look at this thread if your interested: Informational - Science / History Behind In Situ DLC Coatings for ICE and Transmission / Gearbox Applications | Ranger6G - 2024+ Ranger & Raptor Forum, News, Owners, Community (6th Gen)

The above is now my standard practice on all my vehicles for long term durability and so far, it has worked very well. The drivability of my vehicles is still as good or maybe even a bit better (due to wear in) than when new, even on ones with 125k miles.
 

Tankertruck

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Doesn't seem like the FP separators needs to be manually emptied--oil drains back into the engine? If so, there's a convenience factor there.
The FP ones need to be emptied - says so right in the advertisement and these are the same as the GT350 ones, which need periodic maintenance.

The IAG gets plumbed back in.
 

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Oreo_Five8

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Doesn't this pretty well open up the door to no warranty issues if you go with another companies air/oil separator aka catch can?

I mean it's not like there's a whole lot of magic here and they're all doing the same thing and going about it the same way so it'd be a pretty tough argument to make if Ford tried voiding a warranty claim because you used an aftermarket catch can aka air/oil separator.
The warranty issue is due to the possibility of a crappy installation, if it's done right then sure, should be fine. If not, then you get to repair on your dime.
 

Sir Jynx

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Mitigation strategies that I've found to be effective on DI engines:

1. Use OE paper filters (or equivalent). Keeping dust contamination of the intake and upper cylinder group is critical to ring wear and preventing abrasive "grit buildup' on the intake valves. The fine dust mixes with oil vapor / sludge and creates an abrasive grime (ahem, K&N filters which allow more fine dust particulates).

2. Use Top Tier fuel stations (all grades of fuel have same additive packages at Top Tier stations, you don't need 91 unless your vehicle requires it obviously, like my Pro Cal tuned RR, but all grades have the same detergent packages). Top Tier fuels reduce carbon buildup from the fuel even on DI engines, AAA's testing after tear down showed around 19x less buildup when using Top Tier fuels. I would guess they might also have fewer impurities.

Top Tier was a program started by several big auto mfg.'s like Toyota as they saw issues with the minimum Federal fuel quality standards. AAA study finds Top Tier gas brands offer big advantages

Fuel-Quality-Full-Report.pdf

Note that one of their test engines was a Port Injected V8, port injection DID NOT SAVE that engine from high carbon buildup on the intake and valves! Yes it can help, but without good quality detergents in the fuel, it doesn't do much...so why does Top Tier benefit DI engines?

For one it keeps your injection system much cleaner, so you get cleaner burns, there is about 19x less carbon AVAILABLE to contaminate the intake valves which don't get cleaned like in a PI system, so carbon contamination is even more important in DI engines. Really, the name of the game with DI is just keep it clean. Change you oil regularly, use good oil, stock with OE paper filters and use Top Tier fuels. That simple!

Premium Fuel Study (remember, it's not the octane rating that makes a fuel Top Tier. Octane is engine design specific, so a tuned truck will always need premium, but stock trucks that can run on 87 can still use Top Tier brands and have the same benefits).

3. Synthetic oils. Lowers vaporization rate due to better base stock quality. Also in turbo engines, they really help limit any gumming up of the piston rings and timing chain tensioners that are prone to sticking from sludge in blended oil base stocks due to thermal breakdown: Valvoline: Testing Oils for Over 4 Years and 1 Million Miles

4. Maybe at 100k, do an induction cleaning service (chemical, not walnut shell blasting, no disassembly required).

5. Avoid short cycles, aka try to avoid driving frequently on short trips under 10 miles, when you frequently short cycle the engine, buildup occurs much more rapidly because you're never purging the engine fully of moisture that builds up on the cool down cycle.

6. DLC Films, they provide better piston ring seal and reduce oil vaporization by limiting localized heating between bearing surfaces, including the ring to cylinder wall contact area. Who doesn't want super lubricity with a traction coefficient of 0.01 and lower oil consumption rates? I've been using this tech since 2019, take a look at this thread if your interested: Informational - Science / History Behind In Situ DLC Coatings for ICE and Transmission / Gearbox Applications | Ranger6G - 2024+ Ranger & Raptor Forum, News, Owners, Community (6th Gen)

The above is now my standard practice on all my vehicles for long term durability and so far, it has worked very well. The drivability of my vehicles is still as good or maybe even a bit better (due to wear in) than when new, even on ones with 125k miles.
The Ranger Raptor isn't port injected, so this isn't applicable advice to keep the intake valves clean. There is no fuel involved.
 

Oreo_Five8

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I think there’s a distinction between what’s necessary and what’s helpful (helpful with regards to performance, efficiency, aesthetics, reliability, or durability whatever). Not being necessary, in my opinion, doesn’t mean that it isn’t good to have.
Agreed, same can be said for the FP Tune that comes with a warranty. It could have come from the factory with the tune enabled but it didn't. Kind of a lame comment, it can be said about any after market item from Tunes to seat covers. Sure the factory could install a ton of items but cost and profit is a huge concern for any manufacturer so you get a good product and then add your own touches after that.
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