Ford Performance Air Oil Separator for Ranger Raptor 3.0L now available - experience / review?

[JimG]

Here is a good explanation of AOS and catch can. Both accomplish the same thing.

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[Onceaneagle]

Ignorant question, does the 2.7/3.0 engines need this if they are dual port injection?

Arguments both for and against as to need vs want. Dual porting reduces blowby but does not stop it 100%. Parts wear. I prefer the stuff be caught in the can than sent back into the engine. Other people don't mind. Had my first-ever catch can on my 2021 F150 3.5L Ecoboost. I drained half a can of oily, watery stuff every 5K oil change. This 2.7L has a little gunk in the can after 1800 miles. I figure it's worth $169 from J&L. The can and hose quality is there. Simple install. I put a sticker reminder on the can to drain it every 5K, as I am a geezer.

 

[RonM_TX]

I like that its factory, and listed as a non-emissions piece, so probably California CARB safe.

That price is a killer though...

Saw this too... Fits 2024, 2025 (built before 1/20/2025) Ranger Raptor, does that mean built after 1-20-25 come equipped with them? Think not..

Guess it won't fit mine as it was built 1/24/25. Wonder what they changed making it not fit?

 

[BigAir]

Ignorant question, does the 2.7/3.0 engines need this if they are dual port injection?

Did Ford add port injection to the 3.0? Last I knew, the 3.0 was direct injection only.

 

[CoastieN70]

Just saw that Ford Performance dropped an AOS kit for the Ranger Raptor: https://www.ford.com/product/ranger...hG7fi6HJhgBUaq3gDUqxuB_ES_KJT552_nH4vK7zrCInN

Anyone have experience with this? I'm awaiting delivery of a UPR catch can but thinking the OEM option might be the way to go....

Thanks!

Have you read the installation instructions on this?!?
I Just got the UPR Catch Can and will install later this week when Wx is warmer. I studied the UPR instructions and surveyed the area of install, way easier than this mess.

 

[av8r]

I think there’s a distinction between what’s necessary and what’s helpful (helpful with regards to performance, efficiency, aesthetics, reliability, or durability whatever). Not being necessary, in my opinion, doesn’t mean that it isn’t good to have.

ok

 

[Offsidewing]

Did Ford add port injection to the 3.0? Last I knew, the 3.0 was direct injection only.

My bad. The 3.0 Nano is direct inject only.

 

[Lion77]

The 1975 Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act protects consumers. Manufacturers must prove the after market part caused the under warranty issue.

There's a fundamental misunderstanding of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. That was intended for OE equivalent parts, not parts that modify the base function of a vehicle.

So, if you used Auto Zone branded OE equivalent brake pads and rotors, the car manufacturer can't blame a wheel bearing failure on the rotors run out or say the "pads caused excessive heat that killed the bearing".

Or say you use NGK OE equivalent spark plugs at 60k, but your warranty is for 100k and suddenly you crack a piston land at 75k. The mfg. cannot blame the spark plugs because they are OE equivalent spec., even if not the original Motorcraft.

Now that does NOT apply to you using different than OE equivalent spec plugs, or a custom calibration or a CAI etc.

 

[Lion77]

And this is why my preferred method is to mitigate vaporization rather than to deal with the symptoms of it. Take a look at In Situ DLC coatings and how they form on piston rings in this thread:

Informational - Science / History Behind In Situ DLC Coatings for ICE and Transmission / Gearbox Applications | Ranger6G - 2024+ Ranger & Raptor Forum, News, Owners, Community (6th Gen)

Last oil change I ran out to 9k miles, I did an OHV park, I did Baja in farm field with full passengers for 45 minutes, towed a car, regularly flog it (after all fluids are up to operating temp including the transmission) etc. The oil level was still at the top dot where I filled it 9,000 miles before (now to be sure there's always some small vaporization and fuel dilution in TGDI engines, but if it's minimized the impact is generally negligible).

I run DLC films in my little Mazda 3 Carbon also, just a 2.5L NA engine, but the last OCI by Black Stone labs said my oil at 9k miles on that car was in the same condition as the average oil of similar vehicles at 6k miles. That's 50% greater service life of the oil. Normally for that engine they recommend changing around 5k-6k when I did over 9k.

Why? DLC films reduce the usage rate of additive packages in oil by optimizing oil adhesion to bearing surfaces / piston rings / cylinder walls after film formation, it also promotes better ring seal on the cylinder walls. Wear is predominantly occurring on the film once formed (which over time wears back down). All of this reduces the oil vaporization (less friction losses at the points of contact between rubbing pairs) and usage rates to negligible levels, largely negating the need for air to oil separators.

If there's minimal oil vaporization, there's no need for a separator. Based on the evidence, this is a far superior way to deal with oil vaporization, treat the root cause, not the symptom. I use it on the entire powertrain to mitigate wear at the points of highest risk (forms via heat and pressure mechanically, so it only forms at locations of wear).

DLC films are not new. Manufacturers have been using DLC films on various parts for decades, like valve stems. The problem with factory applied DLC films is that once they wear off, you would have to take the part out of the vehicle and replace it / re-finish it, completely impractical! This tech is a self-forming DLC film, that's what makes it so useful.

 

[YukonRanger]

I would recommend IAG or UPR personally

The ford ones will work great too but they are so small, don't hold much oil and hard to empty so more maintenance.

IAG is a more complicated install, but will work in any environment hot or cold as it uses coolant to keep things from freezing.

UPR has a nice dual valve kit that routs all waste oil to a single can, takes maybe 2 minutes to empty, very convenient. You need to check it every 1500 miles in winter, then maybe once in the fall.

I went with UPR. Get the Explorer ST dual kit...no drilling required. Can be added or removed in 10 minutes. Make sure you mount the tubing higher than the can so fluid drains and not freeze up in a pipe.

 

[rgeorge33]

Guess it won't fit mine as it was built 1/24/25. Wonder what they changed making it not fit?

I have a late 25 production truck, September if I remember correctly. I looked at my truck and compared it to the ford performance instructions and can’t see a physical difference. Like you, I’m curious why Ford claims it’s not compatible.

 

[Tankertruck]

I had a similar FP AOS on my GT350R. They install quite nicely, but hold a relatively small quantity and with the fine mesh i wouldn't bet on them not freezing or gunking up in the cold winter months - albeit the engine heat should help warm things up.

I installed the IAG on my 2026, and it took a couple of slow hours of work, and it's been working well so far with no maintenance. Overall i prefer the IAG.

 

[superj]

i don't know why everyone is skipping over the j&l. they are very well made and work great for a way better price.

 

[hand-filer]

i don't know why everyone is skipping over the j&l. they are very well made and work great for a way better price.

Yup, it defies logic that someone would spend that kind of money on a separator because it's Ford branded. It's also a total pita to empty.

 

[embedded rock]

Doesn't seem like the FP separators needs to be manually emptied--oil drains back into the engine? If so, there's a convenience factor there.

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