Oil choice now that Pennzoil UP changed its formulation.

[jordantii]

So I have been running Pennzoil UP for the past couple of oil changes. But I recently discovered that they have changed their formula. What are you guys using instead?

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[srv256ss]

Always and still AMSOIL signature for my Raptor.

 

[STEVE_K]

A kitten dies every time an oil thread starts.

But I do like checking them out from time to time, often some interesting knowledge being shared.

 

[jordantii]

A kitten dies every time an oil thread starts.

But I do like checking them out from time to time, often some interesting knowledge being shared.

I know Steve, it sucks but I gotta ask and the debate might be fun

 

[NASSTY]

Not sure yet? I still have a couple jugs of UP left.

 

[jordantii]

Not sure yet? I still have a couple jugs of UP left.

The good shit?

 

[Mystic]

I've been running Rotella T6 15W-40 for the last few oil changes. It's what we use in the diesels at work, and oil is oil.

14k miles on this oil now, zero issues...I swear the engine runs quieter now. I know Ford calls for 5W-30 but that's mostly for CAFE.

 

[purdyd]

I've been running Rotella T6 15W-40 for the last few oil changes. It's what we use in the diesels at work, and oil is oil.

14k miles on this oil now, zero issues...I swear the engine runs quieter now. I know Ford calls for 5W-30 but that's mostly for CAFE.

5w -30 is standard for all the world for the Ranger.

unlike say Toyota Tacoma which specifies a lower viscosity for USA. That is likely for CAFE.

pennzoil platinum is just marginally worse in the new formulation. Still a good oil especially for the price.

it sounded like at the end of next year shell will have a new source and maybe it goes back to made from natural gas.

 

[Lion77]

My question is, why use something other than MC 5W-30 FS? I get that people want to save money, but at the end of the day, is it worth unintended consequences?

For the 2.7L and 3.0L, you now have to add in wet belt compatibility since the oil pump is belt driven. If it meets the Ford spec, then you should be good, but that doesn't mean the oil is performing optimally.

So, in order to KNOW how an alternate oil is performing, you have to do UOA's, so then your adding cost, so I circle back to why change? Factory synthetics are always a safe bet and rarely have I seen people improve on wear analysis results to any meaningful degree over factory spec synthetics with regular changes, in fact, often I found on the Mustang6G forums that the 5.0's were actually coming in better wear numbers using MC FS than most of the alternate oils from Pennzoil, Mobile 1, Valvoline etc.

Rock Auto has MC 5W-30 FS for $7.54 a quart (~$53 for 7 quarts). I'm questioning the logic of buying a 40k to 60k truck and then trying to save $20~$30 on an oil change....not trying to be snarky, just trying to bring a different angle that the engineers that designed the truck do all their durability and performance testing on factory oil blends and there is a lot of R&D that goes into making those oils tailored to their engine designs and unique characteristics.

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They also have the OE filter.

 

[bgn]

I like my oil the way I like my hot dogs: straight from Costco. The good stuff. Full synthetic Costco/Wally World is fantastic.

 

[stemplar]

I've been running Rotella T6 15W-40 for the last few oil changes. It's what we use in the diesels at work, and oil is oil.

14k miles on this oil now, zero issues...I swear the engine runs quieter now. I know Ford calls for 5W-30 but that's mostly for CAFE.

It does not meet the appropriate spec, nor is it an appropriate viscosity. @Mystic can run whatever they want in their truck, and I wish them well, but for everyone else reading this thread, this is bad advice for the engine as well as for your warranty.

 

[LegendaryYam]

My question is, why use something other than MC 5W-30 FS? I get that people want to save money, but at the end of the day, is it worth unintended consequences?

For the 2.7L and 3.0L, you now have to add in wet belt compatibility since the oil pump is belt driven. If it meets the Ford spec, then you should be good, but that doesn't mean the oil is performing optimally.

So, in order to KNOW how an alternate oil is performing, you have to do UOA's, so then your adding cost, so I circle back to why change? Factory synthetics are always a safe bet and rarely have I seen people improve on wear analysis results to any meaningful degree over factory spec synthetics with regular changes, in fact, often I found on the Mustang6G forums that the 5.0's were actually coming in better wear numbers using MC FS than most of the alternate oils from Pennzoil, Mobile 1, Valvoline etc.

Rock Auto has MC 5W-30 FS for $7.54 a quart (~$53 for 7 quarts). I'm questioning the logic of buying a 40k to 60k truck and then trying to save $20~$30 on an oil change....not trying to be snarky, just trying to bring a different angle that the engineers that designed the truck do all their durability and performance testing on factory oil blends and there is a lot of R&D that goes into making those oils tailored to their engine designs and unique characteristics.

RockAuto | All The Parts Your Car Will Ever Need

They also have the OE filter.

The reason I don't use MC is not because of price, and it's a fine oil, I don't think it's a great oil and it costs more than better oils. There was the post not long ago showing the valve deposits at 30k miles or somewhere around there and it looked pretty bad, and he uses nothing but motorcraft. Oil is not the only factor but it is one. All oils have to go through materials testing so you know they are safe with the wet belt, if some oils have better wear results from UOA I don't see a reason not to go that direction.

Toyota oil I think is garbage, Toyota says it's normal to burn 1qt of oil per 1000 miles. High mileage Toyotas still run, but they burn tons of oil if you use Toyota oil in them, in my experience at least. I own a Toyota, Toyota oil will not be touching it after we got out of the free changes.

 

[Chuck2001]

Whatever has the right Ford specs.

Right now oil is more expensive (we know why...) and I see les discount at my local store.

Usually Mobil 1 0W30 is easy to find and cheap. I change every 6 months so not stress about which exact oil to buy.

 

[Mystic]

It does not meet the appropriate spec, nor is it an appropriate viscosity. @Mystic can run whatever they want in their truck, and I wish them well, but for everyone else reading this thread, this is bad advice for the engine as well as for your warranty.

Alright, you guys convinced me the Rotella probably isn't ideal. I did some more research and I'm going to switch to Mercury 25W-40 marine oil next change. It's specifically formulated for high-output engines operating under sustained load, so it seems like a better fit for the Raptor.

I understand it's marketed for marine use, but the engine doesn't know it's not in a boat.

 

[Jason B]

Whatever Ford puts in it when I get The Works.

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