Oil choice now that Pennzoil UP changed its formulation.

[stemplar]

Edit: to be clear, I enjoy trolling oil threads (the only oil you should be using is whatever the OEM says). The unhinged reactions are usually priceless. On the F-150 forums or similar there would be a raging mob all over me at this point. The key is doing it absolutely deadpan, and acting like you're just really misguided but taking suggestions seriously, and then doing it wrong anyways.

Like:

“Interesting points. Maybe I'll compromise and switch to 10W-40 next change.”

or if someone suggests reading the owner's manual:

“yeah I saw that. Manuals are written for the average owner.”

Other great options:
Straight 50 - "Ford’s recommendation assumes emissions compliance and average drivers. I run mine HARD.”
10W-40 Motorcycle oil: “Higher zinc content protects the turbos.”
ATF: "Old mechanic's trick. Keeps the VCT passages clean"
SAE 30 Non-detergent: "I don't trust all these viscosity modifiers...better to keep it simple"

Ah, so this is why there’s an “Ignore” feature for these forums!

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[Mystic]

Ah, so this is why there’s an “Ignore” feature for these forums!

Sure thing I guess

You must be fun at parties

 

[Lion77]

Alright, you guys convinced me the Rotella probably isn't ideal. I did some more research and I'm going to switch to Mercury 25W-40 marine oil next change. It's specifically formulated for high-output engines operating under sustained load, so it seems like a better fit for the Raptor.

I understand it's marketed for marine use, but the engine doesn't know it's not in a boat.

Good luck on the 25W part...your cold start wear might be a bit of an issue.

 

[got3fords]

Good luck on the 25W part...your cold start wear might be a bit of an issue.

Pretty sure he was joking. I sure hope so.

 

[Lion77]

The reason I don't use MC is not because of price, and it's a fine oil, I don't think it's a great oil and it costs more than better oils. There was the post not long ago showing the valve deposits at 30k miles or somewhere around there and it looked pretty bad, and he uses nothing but motorcraft. Oil is not the only factor but it is one. All oils have to go through materials testing so you know they are safe with the wet belt, if some oils have better wear results from UOA I don't see a reason not to go that direction.

Toyota oil I think is garbage, Toyota says it's normal to burn 1qt of oil per 1000 miles. High mileage Toyotas still run, but they burn tons of oil if you use Toyota oil in them, in my experience at least. I own a Toyota, Toyota oil will not be touching it after we got out of the free changes.

I wouldn't put too much merit on a YouTuber showing intake valve deposites. Every GDI engine will show deposits at relatively low mileage (and im not alone in noting that), especially a vehicle that does a lot of idling and low speed driving in hot weather.

But the problem is most people switch oils, claim oil xyz is so much better and never do a UAO at all. Neither on the factory oil or the new boutique oil, hence why oil threads are mostly endless black holes on the net sucking the life out us with every new post lol.

I dont have a dog in the fight, im just saying stop and think, what is going to be gained?

If people are diligent and do UOA before and after a switch and also maintain similar driving conditions over both intervals, I can dig it, but 99% of the time its "my pet oil is so much better and OE sucks" bla bla bla. Yah know what im saying 50 cent?

Please do post your UOAs before and after switching. Im waiting on a UOA on my last change of 5W-30 MC FS, well see how its doing at my last 8k interval. If MC 5W-30 FS is substandard, my UOA will show it, but Im skeptical that will come back showing anything abnormal.

 

[Lion77]

Pretty sure he was joking. I sure hope so.

You never know!

 

[Mystic]

I wouldn't put too much merit on a YouTuber showing intake valve deposites. Every GDI engine will show deposits at relatively low mileage (and im not alone in noting that), especially a vehicle that does a lot of idling and low speed driving in hot weather.

But the problem is most people switch oils, claim oil xyz is so much better and never do a UAO at all. Neither on the factory oil or the new boutique oil, hence why oil threads are mostly endless black holes on the net sucking the life out us with every new post lol.

I dont have a dog in the fight, im just saying stop and think, what is going to be gained?

If people are diligent and do UOA before and after a switch and also maintain similar driving conditions over both intervals, I can dig it, but 99% of the time its "my pet oil is so much better and OE sucks" bla bla bla. Yah know what im saying 50 cent?

Please do post your UOAs before and after switching. Im waiting on a UOA on my last change of 5W-30 MC FS, well see how its doing at my last 8k interval. If MC 5W-30 FS is substandard, my UOA will show it, but Im skeptical that will come back showing anything abnormal.

This is exactly why I decided to go off the deep end on this thread, haha - it's a pointless exercise.

There's only one criteria that matters:
Does the oil you're using meet the OEM spec?
1. Yes. Good to go.
2. No. What are we even doing here!?!?

 

[Lion77]

Love it, sometimes we just gotta stop arguing and laugh about the absurdity of it all .

Seriously, who argues about what motor oil you put in your car.....

 

[LegendaryYam]

I wouldn't put too much merit on a YouTuber showing intake valve deposites. Every GDI engine will show deposits at relatively low mileage (and im not alone in noting that), especially a vehicle that does a lot of idling and low speed driving in hot weather.

But the problem is most people switch oils, claim oil xyz is so much better and never do a UAO at all. Neither on the factory oil or the new boutique oil, hence why oil threads are mostly endless black holes on the net sucking the life out us with every new post lol.

I dont have a dog in the fight, im just saying stop and think, what is going to be gained?

If people are diligent and do UOA before and after a switch and also maintain similar driving conditions over both intervals, I can dig it, but 99% of the time its "my pet oil is so much better and OE sucks" bla bla bla. Yah know what im saying 50 cent?

Please do post your UOAs before and after switching. Im waiting on a UOA on my last change of 5W-30 MC FS, well see how its doing at my last 8k interval. If MC 5W-30 FS is substandard, my UOA will show it, but Im skeptical that will come back showing anything abnormal.

To be fair, I don't really put much merit into what youtubers say. I do keep up with UOA in general though and MC is fine in the ones I've seen. But I keep up with people who spend way too much time worrying about UOA, and know that there's stuff that will provide better results than MC, while being cheaper, and easier to get. I'm not sure why I'd ever go MC.

 

[landiscarrier]

This is exactly why I decided to go off the deep end on this thread, haha - it's a pointless exercise.

There's only one criteria that matters:
Does the oil you're using meet the OEM spec?
1. Yes. Good to go.
2. No. What are we even doing here!?!?

Yup! It’s a mass produced Ford truck and engine. It’s not a Ferrari F80.

 

[ColeTrainsRR]

i use mobil 1 since the 1500 mile break in change... It uses 5w-30 same as my daily driver so they both get Mobil 1...

 

[Txquailguy]

Really overthinking this oil thing huh? LOL

 

[WhatV8]

<snip>

Please do post your UOAs before and after switching. Im waiting on a UOA on my last change of 5W-30 MC FS, well see how its doing at my last 8k interval. If MC 5W-30 FS is substandard, my UOA will show it, but Im skeptical that will come back showing anything abnormal.

Exactly, without measured values, it is all speculation. I doubt most synthetic oils available will 'kill' our engines and without doing regular analysis you really don't know what is actually going on. As Lake would say, "Without science, it is speculation." Is any really better than another...I feel it depends on your specific use/environment, but overall they will perform well.

I am actually following Lake's new engine break-in process on my new '26 and have performed the first change @500 miles along with a virgin oil analysis for what I will be using going forward. Just about to do my second change at 2,000 miles and the next will be at 5,000 miles to build my break-in trend analysis. From there I should be able to determine a 'good' oil change interval. I will gladly report my analysis details after my 5,000 mile report to show where things are going.

What's my chosen oil for my 2.7L...SuperTech Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30, which meets API SQ and ILSAC GF-7A standards, which fully meets Ford's recommendations. I chose this based on ease of availability and the slight price savings is just a bonus.

 

[surfstar]

Anything beyond what is required to maintain your warranty is simply for a "warm and fuzzy" feeling. Whatever helps you sleep better at night.


"But the warranty is only 5yr / 60k miles" - "I plan to drive this forever!" Well the extended warranty you can buy goes 10 / 150, if desired. Guess how much more often you have to change your oil to keep that warranty? Zilch. Do the minimum required by the booklet and you're good to go.

Despite this, we'll continue to debate for pages on oil, oil change intervals, "break in", etc

 

[superj]

What's my chosen oil for my 2.7L...SuperTech Advanced Full Synthetic 5W-30, which meets API SQ and ILSAC GF-7A standards, which fully meets Ford's recommendations. I chose this based on ease of availability and the slight price savings is just a bonus.

Supertech oil used to always test very well in those oil guy YouTube pages. I used to use it in my autocross BMW and never had an issue.

I never checked id it met Ford requirements but that good to know that it does

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