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Normal driving at the speed limit with a hill does it. Gets to the same max temps towing a light TT (2700 lb max) up a grade also does it. Truck is stock. I think it is a 2025+ 2.3 MPC "feature". https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/threads/very-high-oil-temp-on-interstate-xlt-2025-2-3-mpc.28411/

Psst - don't look at your front grill...

W T F Don't look close or you'll find some Easter eggs in your truck and need to buy a whole lotta Bondo. Sorry, that wasn't helpful. You could back in against the wall, so you don't see it or leave the tailgate down. $0 You're welcome.

^ there's a ForSCAN fix for that. Also on my 2025 when the engine oil gets above 255* F (or 256 or 258 somewhere in there) - the actual digital number shows. I haven't done the ForSCAN mod for gauges yet either. So it may show for coolant and trans temps as well, but I haven't gotten them hot...

Sounds like a costly downgrade :-\

OP -- "tan residue" - you mean varnish? That's harmless and you have no idea if your engine even has any or will have any based on something you saw on YouTube. As already stated, save your sanity and simply burn some extra gas - once a month take a longer highway drive or a spirited back...

255/75r17 are stock Bronco sizes and dirt cheap on FB Marketplace from Bronco owner take-offs. The big bonus - you can get a set of 5 wheels and tires for the price of a couple of new tires. The OEM Bridgestone Dueler A/T RH-S are probably similar in quality to our OEM Wranglers, however. So...

Physics would say yes. But why does that matter? My stock 2.3 is plenty fast and there will always be someone faster. I never got the obsession for power/speed, especially with fuel prices these days.

AI response to this specific question reviews forums and lots of other websites, and summarizes both owners/users reports and other sources. I'm sorry you can't accept that your views do not align with the majority - I tried to enlighten you and gave you a resource to find more information...

Myself, and the internet, would disagree with you. Simply ask google or your favorite AI and see what it says. Maybe the fancy German stuff does better, but the Toyota and Ford stuff I've sat on is noticeably less breathable than leather.

Meh. Fake stuff does not breathe as well as real leather. If it doesn't include vented option, give me real leather. Otherwise it gets clammy on longer drives. Their design and tech hasn't figured out a way to beat this yet. (not clammy w/o ventilation) I'd rather have high-quality cloth. Not...

$500. Ouch Should be renamed Customer Money Separator.

Return it, put the $ aside and in 40k miles see if you even need an intake valve cleaning.

LTX holds its own on snow Wish they weren't so expensive, but they do last a very long time. Only 'dig' against them is that they don't "look aggressive" for most truck owners, despite them actually being the tire that would work best for 95% of owners.

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/what-made-you-choose-your-maverick.88375

Boo. Stop trying to data mine and sell crap with AI generated threads. I see the same prompt on the Maverick forum.

I'll concede defeat when you have 200k on your Raptor and still own it. Then I'll say that your money was well spent on superfluous fluids. Snake Oil Cult until then.

Michelin LTX FTW https://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/so-i-think-the-michelin-defender-is-the-perfect-all-terrain-tire.240260/

Use mine almost daily. Didn't really care one way or the other when considering purchase. Now a moonroof/sunroof - keep that roof solid and lighter weight for me.

As part of my review of maintenance, I looked at my owner's manual and took a 'snip' and pasted it into my spreadsheet With occasional towing, I should do the axle and Tcase fluid at 30k, spark plugs at 60k. Not much needed for a long time besides those.