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With direct injection and no port injection, the induction cleaning at 30-40k miles is not a bad idea to keep carbon build up on the valves under control. As for the spark plugs, generally not a bad idea to swap them somewhere between 30-60k miles in general… I’m more of a preventative...

I asked the dealer for a quote on spark plug replacement in my Ranger Raptor and they quoted me $540! That seems absolutely insane to me. It doesn’t look like a terribly difficult job so I think I’ll be doing it on my own. They also said that their induction cleaning service was $330… but it was...

Thanks for posting this! I’m gonna crawl under my truck this weekend and give it a look to make sure all is as it should be and confirm it is the same on a 2024

Nice work

I have the Yakima version of this and it is awesome too!

Awesome news! I get that dang fault every time it rains even when no trailer is even hooked up

I did transfer case and both diffs at 20k… diffs didn’t need it at all, transfer case was a little dirty. Cooling looks dirty but brakes will probably be fine like you said. Cheers

I was at the dealer getting my state inspection done and I swung by the parts department to get some costs on transmission fluid / filter and pan gasket along with a quote from the service department for them to do the work... the results: Parts alone about $260 with tax included (12 quarts of...

I looked into that, the mounting hard points are not there on the A-pillar of the US spec trucks to mount one from a RHD truck. That was my first thought as well

Anyone know if they actually made any significant changes to the 2026 ranger raptor regarding a driver side grab handle or vents in the back seats?

It leaks a ton so keep your gear in bins in the bed of the truck and be sure to periodically check the mounting hardware as mine has shifted a bit here and there and needs adjustment every few months but I have a rack mounted to the tracks so that is what causes it for me

There is usually a bit of flex between the bed and the cab so if you mount anything between the two racks you run the risk of cracking the weakest link if it flexes (in this case probably the topper) if you keep stuff up top mounted separately there shouldn’t be any problem

That is freaking rad! Did you swap transmission to a 10R80 or just build out the 10R60?

if you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the wiring and then hook everything back up inside the truck before hooking the battery back in you will have no problems. Glad someone was able to give you the info to disconnect it.

I will take a look this weekend to see if I can figure out how that wired part with the lights on it comes out. Cheers!

It’s super easy to get to that bolt, mine felt super tight with a wrench but it wasn’t seated all the way, maybe just stuck on pain in the threads, broke it loose and got it all the way tight and rattle was gone!

no, not a single time. Not sure if the old intake was more flexible and didn’t transfer the rattles to the bracket as much or if it was tighter to the fender so it didn’t move as much but it didn’t start until I put the S&B in. I did take it to the dealer and they said the rattle was because of...

That’s good news! Glad you got it sorted. cheers

Turns out it was the bracket itself that was holding the original intake in place. It turns out the bolt wasn’t tightened from the factory. Once I tightened that it stopped and has been perfect since. Ranger Raptor intake bracket rattle FIXED!!!!!

If you have a tent or something else that blocks the 3rd brake light these are very useful