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Nice! I’ll get it! They can get creative on a cash discount or cover the tax. I’ll persuade/charm the hell out of them. Thanks!

Man that’s it! I’ve been teeter tottering on canopy brands for months now. I had an A.R.E. on my previous F-150 and loved it. Been seriously considering them again for my RR, but thought something else might be the ticket and thought a change was in order….. Seeing the A.R.E. on yours THAT’s IT...

DS with your F-150 led kit in the grill. Me personally I really like the white on white look! Super easy install and given me zero issues in over 9 months.

Just used your link last night to pull the center console to get behind the charging pad to run/hide a radar detector power cord. Thanks to your posting it’s now 100% hidden and not a thing was broken! Thanks - this is being kept!

Damn! KILLER setup! You’re a step or 2 beyond what I’ve done. Likewise I 2 layered SD’d all 4 doors and the roof (not as bad as one would think it is), but WHAT a huge gain. Focal’s in the doors, but just the basic plug & play Inside sets for the Fords and swapped the CC for an Infinity 2-way...

Sorry they’re already installed. I can tell you the 2 front sets are the same and are thicker than the rear set.

Yep, that’s the one! I never actually use it as a pack out. Just got the pack out version because it has more power/suction than the regular smooth bottom M-18. Then get yourself the Milwaukee automotive Air-Tip kit (extended long reach crevice tool, fabric tool, etc.) and that mid-size vac. is...

H&K and Mossberg as frequent as possible

Milwaukee M-18 pack out vacuum is an absolute banger and works like a charm! Little big, but the hose is long enough that the vacuum itself never comes into the interior. It simply rests on the running boards and the hose easily reaches everywhere from each door. It’s the Champ! Powerful as hell...

It has to do with the rail caps. The ‘24 & ‘25’s caps are thicker. Ford thinned the bed rail caps down on the ‘26 model. That’s all I’ve known the difference to be, which would totally affect mounting.

Yeah just did it myself. Standard SAE set of allen keys and a 1/4” drive 7/16” deep socket. Took all of 5 minutes each side. I put a dab of blue thread locker on the bolts….just because. It comes with ny-lock nuts but figured a little extra wouldn’t hurt.

Haven’t really seen anybody talk about these or the problem they address, but I just installed a set of these in preparation of an A.R.E. canopy that’s on order. We all know of the flimsy and thin scenario that Ford had left us with under the factory bed rail caps and the near 1” void that’s...

Look at from the point of anti-backout. Those tabs don’t allow the bolts to loosen and back off on their own due to vibration & harshness. They’re installed correctly.

Yes! I’ve done both from CVF Fab. Their stage 1 intercooler and charge pipe kit. Both great products and were very easy to install. Did it all in an afternoon with basic hand tools and the front of the truck up on ramps (just for extra room to work from underneath when needed). Had to...

There’s also the UPR unit along with the Ronin. Just another option. Basically the same thing just a mildly different style. The UPR has given me zero issues. Worth every dime i.m.h.o.

Pabst Blue Ribbon - Union Made! ………..or at least it is/was while produced in Milwaukee. Just recently read some cans saying produced in St. Louis……please don’t tell me A.B. took over PBR from the Miller umbrella. No Dammit! Then it might become a scab beer. Same damn thing happened to Rainier &...

Holy crap! This is EXACTLY what I need! I’ve got a 90lb. Doberman that gets awfully pushy onto the center console after a long period of time cruising. Dobie paws are huge along with that chest & head and to say the sucker is strong is an understatement. Not always the safest to be tug-a-waring...

HF Daytona 3 ton Long Reach. Works like a champ! Zero strain. Honestly my favorite way to work uunder the truck is to completely drive it up on 4 x 12 ton ramps. Gets the entire truck 6 1/2” higher and level. Makes crawling around underneath it a breeze. I just use the jack & stands to work on...

Here’s how I mounted mine. I stand corrected from earlier, I used 3/8” x 2” TEK screws & 3/4” ss fenders not 5/16”. Nothing through to the exterior. It stays put and doesn’t rattle or reverberate under heavy bass.

You can only drill along the front and left side. That’s the only place where the flange exists with tub void underneath. Towards the back and you’re drilling through the truck. I’ll post pic later once I’m home.