DIY Guide: Water & Dust Proofing Bed Rails for Pace Edwards Ultragroove Tonneau

DIY Guide: Water & Dust Proofing Bed Rails for Pace Edwards Ultragroove Tonneau

I wanted to prepare my truck bed for a Pace Edwards Ultragroove tonneau cover by sealing up the factory rail caps and stake pockets to reduce dust and water ingress. Here’s the process I used:

Tools & Materials

• Pistol-grip needle nose pliers (jaws taped to protect clips)
• Pry tools and flathead screwdrivers
• Oracal 651 vinyl wrap (cut to size for rails)
• 1” x 1” weatherproof self-expanding foam
• Flex Seal waterproof rubberized tape
• Utility knife/scissors (for cutting foam/vinyl)
• Torx t-30 for tail lights

Step 1 – Remove Tail Lights

• Pull tail lights to access the rear rail cap clips using torx t-30 and pry tools.

Step 2 – Release Rail Cap Clips

• Starting from the tailgate toward the cab, work from the underside of the rail.
• Use taped needle nose pliers to squeeze clips and push them above the rail.
• On the fender flare side, create clearance under the cap, then use a pry tool to pop outer clips above the rail.
• The toughest clips are at the cab side of the bed. A combo of pry tools and flatheads helped work those free.

Step 3 – Wrap the Rails

• With the rail caps free, cut Oracal 651 vinyl to size.
• Wrap the top surface of the rails from cab to tailgate for extra protection and a clean surface.

Step 4 – Seal Rail Voids

• Apply 1” x 1” expanding weatherproof foam along the rails.
• Cut an “X” into the rectangular voids for clip entry.
• Pay attention to orientation so it expands to block voids and seal openings inside the bed walls

Step 5 – Seal Stake Pockets

• On the underside of the rail caps, cover stake pocket holes with Flex Seal tape.
• This prevents moisture and dust from entering through the open pockets.

Step 6 – Reinstall Components

• Press rail caps back into place.
• Reinstall tail lights.
• Check that rail caps now fit snug and secure.

Results & Next Step

The sealing job feels solid. Once the tonneau cover is installed, I’ll pressure wash and report back on how effective the sealing is against dust and water intrusion.

did the same here in my ranger in Brazil, improve in 90%. Much betterrrr

Dude thank you. Bout to take the truck on its first road trip from Orlando to Asheville to do some silly truck stuff and have been meaning to seal the bed. Will have to take my tonneau off but worth it. This is super helpful.

Have you considered pairing this with the Keko tailgate seal? I'm running a bed rug instead of the spray in (I move music equipment a lot and need some softer protection) and I hear one of the seals interferes with the Velcro so that'll be one thing I gotta work out but this looks very promising

I installed the BedRug in my 2025 Ranger Raptor (build 6/7/2025). I have installed several BedRugs in other trucks before and did not have any issues or notice any sizing problems with this install.

This is the BedRug I ordered from Amazon: Bedrug BedLiner | Fits 2024-2025 Ford Ranger SuperCrew, 5' Bed | Charcoal Grey, BRR24DCK

The one issue I had is with the Keko Tailgate Seal Kit Lower tailgate gasket installed in the same location as the BedRug lower tailgate velcro (hook & loop).
My solution for now is to keep the Keko attached and leave the BedRug unattached at that location. If I have issues with this I will remove the Keko lower tailgate gasket and attach the BedRug.

theweinerback said:

Dude thank you. Bout to take the truck on its first road trip from Orlando to Asheville to do some silly truck stuff and have been meaning to seal the bed. Will have to take my tonneau off but worth it. This is super helpful.

Have you considered pairing this with the Keko tailgate seal? I'm running a bed rug instead of the spray in (I move music equipment a lot and need some softer protection) and I hear one of the seals interferes with the Velcro so that'll be one thing I gotta work out but this looks very promising

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I’ve considered just about everything. I’m trying to make the tailgate cap flat somehow. I hope the 19-23 version fits the newer trucks but I’m not sure.

I'm going to do this. I was thinking about using Eternabond though instead of the Flex Seal. I also need to find a good way to plug those small holes in the front rail.

@jacksdad This looks great! How has the water/dust proofing worked? Any changes or updates to the initial fix? Also, did you get the tonneau cover installed? If so, can you also share your thoughts on it? Thanks!

Shadowsquatch said:

@jacksdad This looks great! How has the water/dust proofing worked? Any changes or updates to the initial fix? Also, did you get the tonneau cover installed? If so, can you also share your thoughts on it? Thanks!

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Tonneau is installed. Dust mitigation was successful, but water mitigation not so much. The large voids at the front of the bed and the large panel gaps at the tailgate are presenting issues. The tailgate voids allow ingress when the truck is stationary and the bulkhead voids allow ingress when the vehicle is in motion.

jacksdad said:

Tonneau is installed. Dust mitigation was successful, but water mitigation not so much. The large voids at the front of the bed and the large panel gaps at the tailgate are presenting issues. The tailgate voids allow ingress when the truck is stationary and the bulkhead voids allow ingress when the vehicle is in motion.

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Digital Twin in Australia makes a decent tailgate seal kit and I read somewhere else you can cram a tennis ball into each of those large holes in the front of the bed and that will seal them up.

jacksdad said:

Tonneau is installed. Dust mitigation was successful, but water mitigation not so much. The large voids at the front of the bed and the large panel gaps at the tailgate are presenting issues. The tailgate voids allow ingress when the truck is stationary and the bulkhead voids allow ingress when the vehicle is in motion.

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Thanks. How do you like the tonneau? Pace Edward doesn’t seem as popular as Retrax or Roll-N-Lock, so I’d like your feedback.

Shadowsquatch said:

Thanks. How do you like the tonneau? Pace Edward doesn’t seem as popular as Retrax or Roll-N-Lock, so I’d like your feedback.

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It's good, but not perfect. this is my 3rd PE ultragroove. I've run them on a chevy colorado and F-150 in the past with great results. I like that I can clear snow and ice off the cover due to the design. The customer service is outstanding with Pace Edwards being in-state to me. Feel free to reach out with any questions.

bigb said:

Digital Twin in Australia makes a decent tailgate seal kit and I read somewhere else you can cram a tennis ball into each of those large holes in the front of the bed and that will seal them up.

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Digital twin is at the top of my list. Any personal experience?

jacksdad said:

Digital twin is at the top of my list. Any personal experience?

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No, I did a lot of research though and those look to be the best. Going to order it when I get my topper.

I'm gathering my materials. I tried a tennis ball in one of the large holes, it fits really tight but leaves two narrow slots, one on each side. I have a 6" Nerf ball I may cut up and try. I think the tennis ball would work with some of that 1x1 foam stuffed into the slots though.

For all the holes in the front rail I ordered this kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q2R7GML?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 to plug them. For the oval holes you can force a round one in and it conforms nicely. For the holes in the front of the bed behind the cab you can get them in by heating them first with a heat gun which makes them very pliable since you can barely get one finger on them to work them in. Long fingers help as does a wooden tool like a paint stick or wooden spoon handle.

I've been studying how water and dust can make it's way in the first place to the large openings in each front corner and the two ways I see are all those small holes which I am plugging and there is a bigger, irregular opening right at the top front edge where the side rail joins in. This one I believe can be taped with your Flex Seal tape, or some Eternabond tape. I've not worked with Flex Seal but I have worked with Eternabond, it is really tough and pliable at the same time, butyl backed and it is pretty much forever once stuck down.

I'm going to try it, it would be best to stop the water and dust intrusion at the outside wall rather than trying to stop it at the inside wall once it's already made it's way in.

For all the un-used threaded holes I'll get some short bolts, maybe nylon ones.

Nice man, I ordered the digital twin kit the other day. I need to cover all of the other holes yet.