I come from the thinking that the keyed PATS trucks are the hardest to steal. The fobbed ones the signal can be duplicated relatively easily so the push button ones IMO are easier than the chipped keys, where you not only need the replica of the key, but also the correct frequency programmed. I...
Hmm I'm not sure. I imagine any decent mechanic should be able to install one. Essentially all it is is it disables some circuit (usually fuel pump or the like) so that the vehicle can't be started and driven. Then the only way is to tow it. The switch on my Explorer disables the PCM entirely...
Thanks! If installed how far abouts would it protrude? Its not huge for me but just curious. If you have the info, how does the protrusion compare to the Ranch Hand?
Also, does it mount where the tow hooks are? I can't find info on where it mounts necessarily.
My anti theft of choice is hiding a kill switch. Cant steal what ya cant start! Not sure how much it's progressed but the ATS or Viper systems I feel like dont do a whole lot IMO.
Howdy yall! I've been looking for something like a brush or bull bar that will retain the parking sensor & ACC. I'm looking for something that is mainly to mount a small light bar (possibly) and in case someone bumps me in the parking lot. (In LA we have tight lots so I don't want someone...
An open differential operates in that power takes the path of least resistance, so if you put one tire on ice the other on pavement it will just spin on the ice. A locking diff locks the two so they are forced to spin at the same rate. If you are in 4x4 and lock the rear the rears are forced...
Ooh a fun thread! The only things I driven so far: '92 Civic DX HB. Got great fuel economy, and driving stick was fun! Other than that, it was not fun. Everything rattled and squeaked, windshield leaked, etc etc. '98 Explorer 4x4. Dad bought it new and it became my project in 2020 with 300 odd...
Lighting: Used Auxbeam switch panel, ran my GMRS antenna coax thru the port too.
Used 2" Alluminum plate to mount the fuse panel and breaker. Only mod to the auxbeam stuff was to crimp and solder a 90 on the positive side, since it wouldnt fir the cap.
Realized I oughta make a build thread for this one!
Stage 1: BakFlip MX4, Ford DIBL, pod & aux reverse lights, good power to the back.
Stage 2: Level, 33s
Update about a month late! To install the Bakflip I had to notch the top left and right of the front panel about 3"x3" I believe I did, then for the seals I used 1" on the front, since the original was too thin IMO. And for the one that goes on the tailgate, I used 1" again but below the gate on...
Good job! Seems like it went smoother than my install. I ended up getting the same bolts but with a socket head. I want to say it was 12mm so I don't have to deal with the same thing again if I had to take it off again (since I had to remove parts to do the BakFlip hahahaha)
Question about this. If you could add the shocks, could coils (https://www.shocksurplus.com/products/fox-2-0-performance-series-coilovers-985-02-133) possibly work from a 19-23?
I think it has something to do with miles and hours. Since this one has some 900 odd miles, but 15 idle hours (bought with 13 IH) and 45 engine hours total. It says 84% remaining. If it was just mileage, 900=0.16[totalmiles], doing that math gives you 5625 miles of life...
Bak MX4 + Keko seals. Havent tried it yet with the pressure washer but the hose it doesnt seem to seep in. Ended up using thicker seal for the tailgate to body seal & the front of bed to cover seal. Think it was 1".