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IMO, ACC and LK should never have put on any vehicle. Driving is a privilege, not a right.

Love it! Clean & classy! - Details on wheels and tires? - Also a “down the side” photo?

IIRC about 1/2 turn. I positioned my hand so I could hold it while approximately 5 quarts drained out, then I tightened it back up. Poured that used oil out of the pan, then drained the remaining 2 quarts.

I’ve also read, and believe, that Rock Auto is more trustworthy than eBay too.

The 3 Steel Pop Rivets on the Rear Wheel Well Liner are fastened to the Steel Cross Members thats attached to the underside of the trucks bed. One Steel Pop Rivet in front of the wheel, 2 behind. Here’s a pic behind the driver side rear wheel well liner. I’ll just have steel pop rivets put...

^this!

All I can see body colored steel in the empty holes. Im guessing they are structural support points to secure wheel well liner in place. I did not bother to remove the wheel well liner in its entirety.

As a retired manufacturing engineer with over 30 years experience, I've seen some stuff. This is minor. Stuff happens. Not acceptable, but it happens. I get critical too. But most people who harshly criticize a product issue, have never, ever, manufactured a single product. It is not easy...

Maybe so. But the Tech that worked on it, said the fastener type wasn’t called out on the drawing he had access to. The real issue started with non-installation of the steel pop rivets. I do not know the design intent of placing steel rivets in those locations. Quite frankly, as caustic as...

Thank you for this post. I appreciate it. I’m surprised that the steel rivets appear to be the correct fasteners.

My Ranger Raptor was just built in May 2026. When installing Ford Splash Guards, I noticed that: 1) The rear passenger side wheel well liner was loose. Three fasteners were missing. One on the forward side. Two on the back side. 2) The driver side wheel well liner was secure. However, it...

Installed the Ronin Oil Pan Plug during the first oil change at 976 miles. Aluminum foil is your friend. Even though I don't need to, I still completely remove the Ronin Plug out of the pan each time after I drain the oil. Benefit of the Ronin over the OEM is that the Ronin not only allows a...

I removed the cover, and pulled the latch while I was reading the manual. After performing some other tasks, the manual then instructed me to unhook the battery terminals, etc to put back to stock. It’s at that point that I stopped. Why? Because all I want to do is push the truck two feet in...

It’s dark and stinks because Ecoboost. I’m changing mine at 1k, 3k, and never any more than 3500 after that. In the grand scheme of things, it’s peanuts. One of the fastest ways to destroy an Ecoboost is to go >5k miles between oil changes.

Thanks for your help everyone, I appreciate it. ^This works on my '19 Explorer. It does not work on the '26 Ranger Raptor. Is your 2026 XLT a 4x2 or 4x4? FWIW, I ordered a hard copy of the owner's manual and case ($70). I'm a paper guy and it's too challenging to go back and forth with the...

Thanks guys! I’ll give it a shot and report back.

So I have to start the engine, put it in neutral, then push the M button? ^Thanks, but this doesn't answer my question.^

On a '26 Ranger Raptor, how do I shift from park to neutral with the engine off so I can manually push it a couple feet? What I've tried that didn't work: - When the engine is on, and I put it into neutral, then turn it off, the transmission electronically locks it back into park. - With engine...

During an oil change, even though I have and use the Ronin plug, I take it a step further. After all the oil has drained out of the pan, I remove the Ronin plug. I inspect the Ronin plug, examine the magnet to see if any abnormal metallic fines/particles are attached, and clean it off...