2025 XLT Blackout, my way

[MasterCylinder]

My added touches to finish out Fords blackout the way I think it should be done, at least on mine, but I'm old school! I also added side marker yellow LED's in the vented fender pieces. In bright sun can still see blackish chrome/blue in oval.

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[BtheCarGuy]

I’d like to black out the reflectors. Typically I snicker when people black out the tail lights, etc., however I don’t drive this truck at night (we use the wife’s SUV) so getting rid of that goofy orange reflector on an otherwise blacked out vehicle is desirable. I tried that RustOleum Tint Reflector product and it was a disaster- just spraying a light coat to where you could barely see it and it started running waves. Looked horrible. I’m thinking window tint might be the best option.

 

[MasterCylinder]

I want lights with today's drivers! Lol I do get your thought though! Secret to plastic painting lens tint is understand plastics have oils in them. (Probably what you experienced or to smooth of surface it had nothing to grab a hold of.) That's why over time they fade and look dull as the oils dry out being exposed to the elements and they get brittle. When I worked in a body shop we used a hand held sandblaster (fine sand) for such items and then a thorough cleaning. What I use at home shop. I've done a lot for people with custom rides. At home good ol alcohol works good just test on some first. Sanding plastic usually doesn't go well as plastic does funny strange things when sanded. Badges were done with product you mentioned after blasting and cleaning. Also be wary of your States laws on lights, no one needs an excuse to get pulled over! Lol Hope this helps.

 

[BtheCarGuy]

I want lights with today's drivers! Lol I do get your thought though! Secret to plastic painting lens tint is understand plastics have oils in them. (Probably what you experienced or to smooth of surface it had nothing to grab a hold of.) That's why over time they fade and look dull as the oils dry out being exposed to the elements and they get brittle. When I worked in a body shop we used a hand held sandblaster (fine sand) for such items and then a thorough cleaning. What I use at home shop. I've done a lot for people with custom rides. At home good ol alcohol works good just test on some first. Sanding plastic usually doesn't go well as plastic does funny strange things when sanded. Badges were done with product you mentioned after blasting and cleaning. Also be wary of your States laws on lights, no one needs an excuse to get pulled over! Lol Hope this helps.

I prepped it according to instructions using bug N tar remover, but I was thinking about a light sanding using fine grit, which wasn’t per the instructions, however doing that there’s no going back.

 

[MasterCylinder]

I prepped it according to instructions using bug N tar remover, but I was thinking about a light sanding using fine grit, which wasn’t per the instructions, however doing that there’s no going back.

I understand and is what one would expect. Bug and tar removers are by design not suppose to damage plastics, paint etc....No etch factor. They are surfactants (soaps) which actually allow oil and water to mix. You need an etch, a surface for cling that removes the surface oils and helps prevent runs. Why sand blasting works so well. If you must sand use a scrubby type with a grit of around 800-1000 wet sanding, then cleaning good. One thing I've done is tint clear tape, to put over lens area (make a template, cut out, tape to glass for easier removal after tint, clear tape is also available with a peel off back, matte finish even) which leaves the amber edge exposed and lit up it's pretty cool at night. You can tint or color the edge if don't want it that way, just tape off rest first. Just another means so not to have a not turning back. Just a thought.

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