Fuel Pump / Injector Pump Control Module Failure

[zedder]

Has anyone had this issue with their Ranger 6G yet?
Or any of these codes before?

I was in the middle of the bush and my engine kept cutting out. I fiddled with the harness going to fuel pump on the tank and it somehow came back to life.

It again died on me this time on high speed main roads. Just managed to pull off the side and nothing I did would bring it back again. got it towed home.

Dropped the tank and found an additional control module separate from the fuel pump. It seems this module had some corrosion on the pins and was making inconsistent contact with the harness plug. I believe this module is a power module for the fuel pump. Without it being proper connected what I experienced would make sense.

Cleaning the contacts, bending the pins slightly, made it connect properly now and the fuel pump is pumping fuel again normally.

Anyone else had fuel / fuel pump / fuel component related issues?

See picture of my tank and the module I talk of. Why would it be corroded or not making good contact? Those plugs seem robust.

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[zedder]

Update:
Listen to the fuel pump motor now... This is the brand new fuel pump assembly with new motor..

Fuel Pump Noise

The injection pump module error has gone away. I think it was related to the instant drop out of fuel pressure from the low pressure side.

The only thing I can think of is the fuel pump control module or some blockage along the fuel line.

The pump and car works fine when the fuel pump module is cold. Once it warms up from use, fuel pressure drops and limp mode is activated.

If I'm correct that it is the fuel pump module, then it must have died from overheating due to loose/small contact point with the wiring harness. Odd that that is even possible with these connectors.

My next steps:
1. Double check everything with fuel filter and housing.
2. Replace and relocate the fuel pump module to make it easily accessible and changeable in the future. (Carry module as spare in emergency "get me the F out of here" kit)
3. Trace fuel line all the way to engine and replace if needed.

If that doesn't work... lol.... well.... I don't know what to do.

Will have to look into high pressure side.

Will update.

 

[MasterCylinder]

Just a little advise to save on aspirin. I listened to that pump, awful! Pressure text the system and run current draw testing on the wiring. Excessive current draw very well could have damaged the module. Another name for the module is the fuel pump driver as it controls or manages the voltages to drive the motor. If you found corrosion on the pins you also have corrosion in the female portion of the socket. If it were me repairing this for someone that socket would get replaced no matter what because of the importance! Oh and never, I repeat never use dielectric grease in those sockets, oooooh lordly the stories I can tell. It's called "Die"- lectric for a reason. Good luck!

 

[zedder]

Just a little advise to save on aspirin. I listened to that pump, awful! Pressure text the system and run current draw testing on the wiring. Excessive current draw very well could have damaged the module. Another name for the module is the fuel pump driver as it controls or manages the voltages to drive the motor. If you found corrosion on the pins you also have corrosion in the female portion of the socket. If it were me repairing this for someone that socket would get replaced no matter what because of the importance! Oh and never, I repeat never use dielectric grease in those sockets, oooooh lordly the stories I can tell. It's called "Die"- lectric for a reason. Good luck!

Thanks for the reply.

Problem is this is a brand new fuel Pump assembly and pump. Unless the damage to the driver unit has caused this one to start burning out or something.

I did also test the function of both pumps when I realised the driver was loose. Both worked fine and didn't make this noise. The noise is new.

One thing I didn't mention is I have gone through the service procedure for priming a new pump and it reads 140-190Kpa which is too low. But in operation it reads 400-500kpa which is also too low as the setpoint is 447 kpa. It should be constantly above 500 but it dips below 300 when I floor it.

I'm definitely replacing the driver module and the plugs on both pump and driver. I will relocate it to the chassis for easy access in the future regardless of what the actual issue turns out to be.

Next car is the Shark 6 or 7 (dual drive train? Half the chance to get stuck? ) if it's out by next year but this car is a work car already kitted to the bone and I must understand it and it's faults 100% before I pass it onto my team.

Thanks!

 

[MasterCylinder]

Thanks for the reply.

Problem is this is a brand new fuel Pump assembly and pump. Unless the damage to the driver unit has caused this one to start burning out or something.

I did also test the function of both pumps when I realised the driver was loose. Both worked fine and didn't make this noise. The noise is new.

One thing I didn't mention is I have gone through the service procedure for priming a new pump and it reads 140-190Kpa which is too low. But in operation it reads 400-500kpa which is also too low as the setpoint is 447 kpa. It should be constantly above 500 but it dips below 300 when I floor it.

I'm definitely replacing the driver module and the plugs on both pump and driver. I will relocate it to the chassis for easy access in the future regardless of what the actual issue turns out to be.

Next car is the Shark 6 or 7 (dual drive train? Half the chance to get stuck? ) if it's out by next year but this car is a work car already kitted to the bone and I must understand it and it's faults 100% before I pass it onto my team.

Thanks!

In my experience that noise tells me the pump is struggling to operate, you verified with the test. If you tested briefly before install like I usually do and no whine. I think a electrical current draw will show the culprit. Wiring repair advise, do not use any kind of crimp connectors. Solder them together with a least two layers heat shrink over the splices and some wire loom over all of it! Keep us informed! My 2 cents is the driver/wiring cannot supply what the pump requires, Ex the sound slowly rises and maintains the sound, needs more current, there is a long electrical explanation to it bit I'd have to write a chapter of a book. We all like learning!!

 

[embedded rock]

Why doesn't the fuel pump shut off after once the lines are pressurized (pre-engine start)? Is the pump not getting to the proper psi? I think this what what is being discussed--just looking for a clearer understanding.

 

[zedder]

Why doesn't the fuel pump shut off after once the lines are pressurized (pre-engine start)? Is the pump not getting to the proper psi? I think this what what is being discussed--just looking for a clearer understanding.

It's possible it's not seeing enough pressure so it keeps it active. The readings I'm getting on the prime procedure are between 140-190 kpa and in operation 500. It's detecting low pressure but I have no idea why.

I'm going to change my fuel filter just in case the last one was not alright and see if there is any difference. If not, track down the fuel line. There might be a branch pinching the line somewhere.

 

[MasterCylinder]

Why doesn't the fuel pump shut off after once the lines are pressurized (pre-engine start)? Is the pump not getting to the proper psi? I think this what what is being discussed--just looking for a clearer understanding.

Built in pressure relief/regulation/regulator, the pump has to supply at all times the ECU tells it to. (key on) Old days fuel injection, excess pressure was returned via an extra fuel return line and regulator, today's systems the tank pump has to supply the pressure, if equipped, not just port injectors but also a high pressure pump on the engine for Direct injection which can reach 3000psi, instantaneously. Even the old motor mounted fuel pumps that ran off of a cam lobe or cam mounted concentric wheel etc... ran all the time. Demand has to met Fast! Think your water facet at the house, always pressurized for the demand, you regulate the flow with the valve!

 

[embedded rock]

It's possible it's not seeing enough pressure so it keeps it active. The readings I'm getting on the prime procedure are between 140-190 kpa and in operation 500. It's detecting low pressure but I have no idea why.

I'm going to change my fuel filter just in case the last one was not alright and see if there is any difference. If not, track down the fuel line. There might be a branch pinching the line somewhere.

Had to convert the kpa readings you are seeing into psi. I don't know the property ranger per Ford, but I wonder if it is low fuel pressure. Does your Ranger Wildtrack have direct injection? I'm suspecting those DI systems require lots of fuel pressure.

 

[MasterCylinder]

Had to convert the kpa readings you are seeing into psi. I don't know the property ranger per Ford, but I wonder if it is low fuel pressure. Does your Ranger Wildtrack have direct injection? I'm suspecting those DI systems require lots of fuel pressure.

The tank pump itself supplies the high pressure pump on the engine!

 

[embedded rock]

The tank pump itself supplies the high pressure pump on the engine!

Then the 140-190kpa (roughly 25psi) should be sufficient pressure for fuel supply to the high-pressure pump for the DI, right? Maybe not though. That pump not turning off seems to be a problem.

 

[MasterCylinder]

Update:
Listen to the fuel pump motor now... This is the brand new fuel pump assembly with new motor..

Fuel Pump Noise

The injection pump module error has gone away. I think it was related to the instant drop out of fuel pressure from the low pressure side.

The only thing I can think of is the fuel pump control module or some blockage along the fuel line.

The pump and car works fine when the fuel pump module is cold. Once it warms up from use, fuel pressure drops and limp mode is activated.

If I'm correct that it is the fuel pump module, then it must have died from overheating due to loose/small contact point with the wiring harness. Odd that that is even possible with these connectors.

My next steps:
1. Double check everything with fuel filter and housing.
2. Replace and relocate the fuel pump module to make it easily accessible and changeable in the future. (Carry module as spare in emergency "get me the F out of here" kit)
3. Trace fuel line all the way to engine and replace if needed.

If that doesn't work... lol.... well.... I don't know what to do.

Will have to look into high pressure side.

Will update.

Let me add before I get busy. I would replace wiring connectors first if you have no way to test and track current draw with a meter. I can't tell you how any times electrical problems I've repaired on vehicles that after finding corrosion that I've taken apart those replaced connectors to find over heated melted ends where the factory crimps the ends. A bad connection causes excess current draw to the device in question. The connectors are a lot cheaper than that module I'm sure. In your situation like your doing checking all avenues is the key, filter lines, wiring, module.

 

[MasterCylinder]

Then the 140-190kpa (roughly 25psi) should be sufficient pressure for fuel supply to the high-pressure pump for the DI, right? Maybe not though. That pump not turning off seems to be a problem.

To me you should be seeing 50 psi minimum and around 75psi maximum from tank pump.

 

[zedder]

Had to convert the kpa readings you are seeing into psi. I don't know the property ranger per Ford, but I wonder if it is low fuel pressure. Does your Ranger Wildtrack have direct injection? I'm suspecting those DI systems require lots of fuel pressure.

It goes: low pressure from tank to fuel filter, fuel filter, directly to high pressure pump that's on the engine block. All diesels require ludicrous high fuel pressure to atomise the diesel in the injectors. the issue is 100% confirmed on the low pressure side.

So somewhere in-between the fuel pump in tank, fuel driver module, fuel line to filter, filter lies the issue.

 

[zedder]

For anyone interested or experiencing the same thing...

It wasn't wiring. It wasn't a bad driver module. It wasn't a bad pump...

First failure was a loos connection on harnes to driver module. Continued intermittent failure and pressure drop outs were all caused by the diesel fuel water seperator/ filter.

It was a failed diesel fuel water seperator/ filter.

See picture. + Some additional photos of the carnage that is my underside.

Will be replacing it every 30k KM now.

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