Diamondback covers?

[Hofstetm]

So how do you feel about your Diamondback? I'm questioning myself right now. The instructions say to line it up with the outermost edge of the bulkhead, but if I do that the cover isn't quite long enough to make a seal on the tailgate. So I'm having to cheat it toward the back just to get any meaningful seal on the tailgate. And even then it's hard to get much of the cover over the tailgate just due to the way the sides round back to the tailgate. I don't feel like the fitment is particularly good for our truck. What do you think? Also, I wish I would not have had them pre-install my cleats. They're somewhat crooked.... and that's annoying. You'd think they would have been able to install them correctly there at the factory. I'm a bit disappointed overall.

Are your lock rod guide brackets also too short after full install?

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[jorosz0309]

@Hofstetm @garagesale

My lock rod guides were of sufficient length. At first, they appeared short, but then I put some sandbags on top of the cover to press down the seal, which provided enough clearance for the rods to pass under.

I had all the seals included. In fact I ordered the (2) extra sets... 8 total... of cleats and they came installed. And then they also included another bag with (4) extra cleats, so I was pleasantly surprised there.

My only gripe... and it's a big one!....is that the cover is just short. It's not "critical" to me as I don't care for 100% water tightness (my gear is all in pelican cases) as much as security. But it is just a disappointment. Overall it looks to be 1/2 - 3/4" too short.

From a "tailgate coverage" perspective, I can't really fault Diamondback. If you just look at the very corner of our trucks at the bed cap as far back as you can go and take a right angle to that point, it only covers about a 1/2" of the tailgate unfortunately. It's just the way our trucks are designed.

We're currently getting 6" of snow, but as soon as I'm done clearing it I'll get out and take some pictures.

 

[jorosz0309]

@Hofstetm @garagesale

BTW - I did not install the bulkhead large bulb seal yet. The instructions say to do this in 50 degree+ conditions where it will be 50 degrees for at least 24 hours - for the adhesive to cure. I'm in Minnesota. We won't have that until April Not a big deal to me - I can live with the gap until some warm weather comes around. My brother in law is a welder, so I've also debated fashioning some tube steel / aluminum to attach to the top of the bulkhead to close up that gap, giving it a SOLID surface to bear on rather than using the rubber bulb. If I go that route, I may make the top tube an extra 1/2" wide to "fix" the shortness of the cover.

 

[Hofstetm]

@Hofstetm @garagesale

BTW - I did not install the bulkhead large bulb seal yet. The instructions say to do this in 50 degree+ conditions where it will be 50 degrees for at least 24 hours - for the adhesive to cure. I'm in Minnesota. We won't have that until April Not a big deal to me - I can live with the gap until some warm weather comes around. My brother in law is a welder, so I've also debated fashioning some tube steel / aluminum to attach to the top of the bulkhead to close up that gap, giving it a SOLID surface to bear on rather than using the rubber bulb. If I go that route, I may make the top tube an extra 1/2" wide to "fix" the shortness of the cover.

Even more reason to get that heated/insulated garage up and running!

I like the thought there. Was super excited to get this thing installed, too. But I am the same as you, I don't necessarily need it 100% weather tight, it's more for the security piece and the mounting of things on.

 

[jorosz0309]

Even more reason to get that heated/insulated garage up and running!

I like the thought there. Was super excited to get this thing installed, too. But I am the same as you, I don't necessarily need it 100% weather tight, it's more for the security piece and the mounting of things on.

no kidding! Might have to climb on my 2025 priority list.
here are some pictures
You can see I put it as far back to the tailgate as I could without it actually lapping over the tail lights, and it still only gets about 1/2” of contact width on the tail gate. I’m fine with that. I’ll just address it at the cab side where I already was debating raising the level with tube metal vs using the rubber. Easy enough. I do like how the cover looks on the truck.

 

[Hofstetm]

no kidding! Might have to climb on my 2025 priority list.
here are some pictures
You can see I put it as far back to the tailgate as I could without it actually lapping over the tail lights, and it still only gets about 1/2” of contact width on the tail gate. I’m fine with that. I’ll just address it at the cab side where I already was debating raising the level with tube metal vs using the rubber. Easy enough. I do like how the cover looks on the truck.

First of all, it looks great! I am very jealous right now. Second, I didn't realize how odd the back of our bed is. It makes complete sense now, I see what you mean. Personally, I wouldn't want it to hang over the tail lights.

I also see those inner cleats, I like them. Mine also came with 4 more in a separate bag as well. Maybe I'll have to install those! I assume the inner cleats do not come in contact with the middle portion or the other panel when up?

 

[jorosz0309]

First of all, it looks great! I am very jealous right now. Second, I didn't realize how odd the back of our bed is. It makes complete sense now, I see what you mean. Personally, I wouldn't want it to hang over the tail lights.

I also see those inner cleats, I like them. Mine also came with 4 more in a separate bag as well. Maybe I'll have to install those! I assume the inner cleats do not come in contact with the middle portion or the other panel when up?

Correct, they clear just fine. And should also clear with the UpTop bars... as I plan to put 2 bars on. One across the rear set of cleats of each panel.

I had to call Diamondback to request some additional bed rail edge trim pieces (the little plastic pieces that stick on to allow the rods to move smoothly), and while on the phone talked to them about the cover length. They said they'll look at the instructions and make a correction because the intent is to center it and split the difference between the bulkhead and the tail gate. They said 1/2" bearing is fine and will make a good seal. Overall I'm not worried about it but I will be sealing up that front bulkhead with my own custom solution. From a rigidity standpoint, I just want a solid front bulkhead anyway. And with my solution, I won't have to worry about the length issue.

And while I don't care if it's 100% waterproof, I do want to address the massive holes in the very front under the rails. I might do a little fiberglass molding for those corners and then flexseal it in. I'm curious to see what steps others have taken, because outside the tailgate itself these front corners are the biggest holes in the bed construction and they face forward where water can flow in quite easily.

 

[Hofstetm]

Correct, they clear just fine. And should also clear with the UpTop bars... as I plan to put 2 bars on. One across the rear set of cleats of each panel.

I had to call Diamondback to request some additional bed rail edge trim pieces (the little plastic pieces that stick on to allow the rods to move smoothly), and while on the phone talked to them about the cover length. They said they'll look at the instructions and make a correction because the intent is to center it and split the difference between the bulkhead and the tail gate. They said 1/2" bearing is fine and will make a good seal. Overall I'm not worried about it but I will be sealing up that front bulkhead with my own custom solution. From a rigidity standpoint, I just want a solid front bulkhead anyway. And with my solution, I won't have to worry about the length issue.

And while I don't care if it's 100% waterproof, I do want to address the massive holes in the very front under the rails. I might do a little fiberglass molding for those corners and then flexseal it in. I'm curious to see what steps others have taken, because outside the tailgate itself these front corners are the biggest holes in the bed construction and they face forward where water can flow in quite easily.

Good to know about centering the cover, I would have done that for sure. I'd also have to see what you're referring to, regarding where water can come in. I am the same as you, don't care much about water ingress (well, to a point of course) but big enough gaps would be annoying.

Looks like we got the snow here you just did, dumped around 6 inches. will be taking the raptor out later to have a bit of fun!

 

[garagesale]

@Hofstetm @jorosz0309 The lock rod on the driver side cab panel is shorter than the rest. The angle it enters the lock rod bracket is such that it contacts the edges of the hole as enters and exits the hole creating a fair bit of friction. The friction makes opening and closing the bracket a bit of a challenge. Any similar issues and/or advice? I’m guessing it’ll improve as the seal gasket compresses, but the angle it’s at likely won’t change.

 

[jorosz0309]

@Hofstetm @jorosz0309 The lock rod on the driver side cab panel is shorter than the rest. The angle it enters the lock rod bracket is such that it contacts the edges of the hole as enters and exits the hole creating a fair bit of friction. The friction makes opening and closing the bracket a bit of a challenge. Any similar issues and/or advice? I’m guessing it’ll improve as the seal gasket compresses, but the angle it’s at likely won’t change.

yeah I know exactly what you’re saying and I noticed it too. There is a bit more friction with that rod. Everyone who has ever had a diamondback likely has the same thing and since it isn’t a hot topic of concern out there on the internet, I’m guessing it does get better as all the parts (rod, guide, bracket, gasket, etc) get some wear.

 

[Hofstetm]

@Hofstetm @jorosz0309 The lock rod on the driver side cab panel is shorter than the rest. The angle it enters the lock rod bracket is such that it contacts the edges of the hole as enters and exits the hole creating a fair bit of friction. The friction makes opening and closing the bracket a bit of a challenge. Any similar issues and/or advice? I’m guessing it’ll improve as the seal gasket compresses, but the angle it’s at likely won’t change.

Unfortunately the bulkhead gasket was not included in my shipment, and one of my panels was bent (although I’ll try to rectify that myself) so I have not installed yet. However, when I opened a warranty case, they had me measure my lock rod bracket and mentioned I had 4x of the wrong size. So, I’m getting 4x new correct brackets and my bulkhead gasket. Those won’t be a solve to your issue, but when I install I’ll see what mine is like.

 

[garagesale]

Thank you both. I’m considering trying to bend the one bracket that the short rod passes thru to angle it more in the direction the rod it coming from. For what it’s worth, there are 4”, 4.375” and 6.25” brackets. The 4” ones that came w/ the cover were too short for the cab side brackets, and marginal for the tailgate ones. I tried the 6.25” one where the short rode passes thru, but it was so long that the angle I referenced got even worse. The 4.375” brackets worked best at all 4 corners.

 

[garagesale]

Bending the bracket slightly so that the rod is perpendicular to the bracket is a huge improvement. It’s still not as smooth/easy as the tailgate one, but is much much better than it was.

 

[jorosz0309]

Bending the bracket slightly so that the rod is perpendicular to the bracket is a huge improvement. It’s still not as smooth/easy as the tailgate one, but is much much better than it was.

I did the same thing when I installed mine. It’ll get better I’m sure.

 

[Hofstetm]

@garagesale @jorosz0309 I was able to install my Diamondback SE this weekend, and honestly, it went surprisingly well all around. I still don't have my bulkhead weatherstripping yet, but I'll install when I get it. A few things I found.

1. You absolutely need 2 people for this job. It made it incredibly easy. One person in the bed, one person on the outside for reasons I'll mention in a bit.
2. Even though I took a picture of my rod guide brackets for DB (they requested it and are sending me new ones because these were short, allegedly) the ones already on the cover fit great. They are pretty close to the furthest "down position" but having someone apply pressure to the cover to make the gaskets compress and tighten the brackets makes an awesome seal all the way round and the job of installing the brackets a breeze. Note that none of the rod guide brackets bind their rods at all. Maybe it's because of number 3 below.
3. Rods. These all shipped short. But, are adjustable length wise with an allen wrench (I'll attach a picture). That, and they can also be turned/pivoted so the bend is at the outer most part of the panels and not in the middle (which would interfere with taller items in the bed). This is where the second person came into play again. I had someone compress the panel gaskets even more while I laid on my back in the bed, pulled the guide rods out with the allen key loosened until I had a good inch past the lip of bed and rotated where the bend of the rod was closest to the top. I did this on each rod, tightened the allen keys and I was set. To close the panels I'll press down on the panels to compress the seal and close the latch thereafter. There's no binding or rubbing, and everything has smooth operation. That, and all 4 rods have more than enough left in adjustment - see pic. Maybe this is known already, but figured it would be helpful to someone.
4. Pet-peeve: The front (or cab-most) panel has driver side spring loaded latch and a dumb safety catch. I hate it. I honestly contemplated removing it all, but thought it might void their warranty - and decided against it. Safety, I guess.
5. I also installed the UpTop Overland bars. These things ROCK. Super stout and match really well. Lots of adjustability. Do yourself a favor though and mock everything up first before installing the brackets on the DB, then attach the bars to the brackets, THEN install the brackets to the DB. The bars remind me of large C channel, and it's tough to get your fingers inside the bars to secure everything. And let me tell you, there are ~24+ lock nuts you'll have to get inside the bar so you'll get frustrated quick. Ask me how I know. Again, going this route might be beneficial with 2 people.

Next up, I'll be adding the DB inside light, tool bar and 4 more cleats. it's sleeting outside right now, otherwise I'd head outside and take some pictures. Garage pics will have to do for now.

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