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daedalus

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First off, thank you for the business!

Dang. Hate to hear that about the bolt. I'm curious, was there any corrosion on it when you got it out? I see that you may be near some salty air. The bolts in our truck came right out first try, but we're in a dry climate. I would love to find some type of pattern with the people who have had issues with them so we could have a plan of attack for these situations.

Sorry to hear about the missing bolts. That type of thing drive me absolutely nuts (no hardware pun intended). Our entire team puts in a ton of effort to get these out with the most perfect customer experience possible. Can you share the order number so I can do some research into that hardware pack? May be time for some "re-education". 😉
No corrosion, just a ton of Red Locktite. Where I am, we are dry and do not get the sea air. I will send the Order number over. Not sure if you have Parts Gnomes or Parts Trolls but have fun with the "re-education"
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AdventureLab

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No corrosion, just a ton of Red Locktite. Where I am, we are dry and do not get the sea air. I will send the Order number over. Not sure if you have Parts Gnomes or Parts Trolls but have fun with the "re-education"
ha ha. Challenges of scaling a business. 😂

If it's just locktite, that stuff loosens up with heat. It will be tricky not to melt the liner with a torch, though. Might could do some type of heat transfer by heating up a torx bit. Hopefully you won't have to do it in the future.
 

donkey

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I spent all 3 minutes trying to get my bed bolts out before I realized it’s a lost cause. Enter the induction heater…Worth every penny!

IMG_9004.webp
 

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Having not installed a MX4 myself, I can't say for sure, but based on the video on the REALTRUCK site, it looks like the MX4 attaches to the inner flange of the bedsides. I don't see any reason that would interfere.



2025-06-29_19-23-37.webp
@AdventureLab

I just finished installation of my Molle Kit (bulkhead, driver side with power cutout, full passenger). A few takeaways for you

First, you can add that this is compatible with the Bakflip MX4 to your Verified to fit section. If you like, I can attach photos of it tomorrow when there is daylight. They work perfectly together, no modifications needed.

Second, somehow I'm either missing it, or the instructions got removed from the product pages. I've looked over the bundle, the driver side, and the passenger side pages, and can't find them on any of them. Luckily it was pretty straightforward and I could easily install on my own. In this thread I see where there are instructions, so would be good to get them back on the product page if they are actually missing. The only part that really threw me for a loop was the Nutcerts that are included. I spent a good 30 mins trying to figure out wtf I was supposed to do with them lol.

Third, not sure if this is a common issue. But the passenger half of my bulkhead molle flange on top was bent at a different angle to the other half. It wasn't a huge difference, but enough of one that they do not line up properly, and I had to use tools to bend the passenger side up to where the bolt could reach the bolt hole in the top of the bulkhead. I was able to get it to work, and it lines up for the most part with the other half, but not perfectly. Maybe worth checking the tolerance on the production for this.

Overall I think they are an excellent product and looking forward to filling them out. I didn't order them at the time, but the Milwaukee Packout Plate looks great. I will probably be back to get that soon!

edit: I see where a lot of others have mentioned issues removing the tie down bolts to install this. Using a high torque impact wrench took them out with no issues. Not sure if I am just lucky on that, or if others are trying to do by hand.
 

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@AdventureLab

I just finished installation of my Molle Kit (bulkhead, driver side with power cutout, full passenger). A few takeaways for you

First, you can add that this is compatible with the Bakflip MX4 to your Verified to fit section. If you like, I can attach photos of it tomorrow when there is daylight. They work perfectly together, no modifications needed.

Second, somehow I'm either missing it, or the instructions got removed from the product pages. I've looked over the bundle, the driver side, and the passenger side pages, and can't find them on any of them. Luckily it was pretty straightforward and I could easily install on my own. In this thread I see where there are instructions, so would be good to get them back on the product page if they are actually missing. The only part that really threw me for a loop was the Nutcerts that are included. I spent a good 30 mins trying to figure out wtf I was supposed to do with them lol.

Third, not sure if this is a common issue. But the passenger half of my bulkhead molle flange on top was bent at a different angle to the other half. It wasn't a huge difference, but enough of one that they do not line up properly, and I had to use tools to bend the passenger side up to where the bolt could reach the bolt hole in the top of the bulkhead. I was able to get it to work, and it lines up for the most part with the other half, but not perfectly. Maybe worth checking the tolerance on the production for this.

Overall I think they are an excellent product and looking forward to filling them out. I didn't order them at the time, but the Milwaukee Packout Plate looks great. I will probably be back to get that soon!

edit: I see where a lot of others have mentioned issues removing the tie down bolts to install this. Using a high torque impact wrench took them out with no issues. Not sure if I am just lucky on that, or if others are trying to do by hand.
Ditto on the passenger side front molle panel being bent at a different angle. I haven’t installed yet but it’s noticeably off.
 

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Glisch

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Ditto on the passenger side front molle panel being bent at a different angle. I haven’t installed yet but it’s noticeably off.
If it's the same as the one I received, you can't get the bolt into the top of the bulkhead with how it is bent. There is a gap that makes it slightly out of line. I just braced it in a vice, wrapped in some shop towels to try and not scuff it up. Then used a large crescent wrench to bend it more in line where it needs to be. I didn't get it perfect, but I got it close enough that I could get the bolt in. Now that it's installed, I kind of wish I had spent a bit more time getting them lined up better so it's more flush.

edit: also here is the instructions I found earlier in this thread in case you hadn't found them. Unless I'm blind, they aren't on the product page anywhere. It's not a hard install, but the instructions are helpful

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...0_1021_1022-Bed_MOLLE_Panels.pdf?v=1753242206

Also, if you already have that gfc topper installed, I'm not sure how you will be able to attach the top of the bulkhead flange to the bed. It has quite a bit of flex without that bolt installed. I might would look to see if you can get a properly sized nutsert for the top of the bulkhead so you don't need to reach the topside while installing if I were you.
 
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@AdventureLab

I just finished installation of my Molle Kit (bulkhead, driver side with power cutout, full passenger). A few takeaways for you

First, you can add that this is compatible with the Bakflip MX4 to your Verified to fit section. If you like, I can attach photos of it tomorrow when there is daylight. They work perfectly together, no modifications needed.

Second, somehow I'm either missing it, or the instructions got removed from the product pages. I've looked over the bundle, the driver side, and the passenger side pages, and can't find them on any of them. Luckily it was pretty straightforward and I could easily install on my own. In this thread I see where there are instructions, so would be good to get them back on the product page if they are actually missing. The only part that really threw me for a loop was the Nutcerts that are included. I spent a good 30 mins trying to figure out wtf I was supposed to do with them lol.

Third, not sure if this is a common issue. But the passenger half of my bulkhead molle flange on top was bent at a different angle to the other half. It wasn't a huge difference, but enough of one that they do not line up properly, and I had to use tools to bend the passenger side up to where the bolt could reach the bolt hole in the top of the bulkhead. I was able to get it to work, and it lines up for the most part with the other half, but not perfectly. Maybe worth checking the tolerance on the production for this.

Overall I think they are an excellent product and looking forward to filling them out. I didn't order them at the time, but the Milwaukee Packout Plate looks great. I will probably be back to get that soon!

edit: I see where a lot of others have mentioned issues removing the tie down bolts to install this. Using a high torque impact wrench took them out with no issues. Not sure if I am just lucky on that, or if others are trying to do by hand.
Thank you for the detailed feedback, especially the parts where we can do better. Let me address those individually:
  1. That's great to hear. I really appreciate that. Yes, if you could send some photos, I will add them to the product pages and give you the credit for that! Thank you!!!
  2. If you look on the back of your packing list page, there's a QR Code. Scanning that takes you to our instructions library. The instructions for all of our products are listed there. We did a poll a while back and most people said they preferred digital instructions, so we put a lot of effort into that process. I'll make a note to discuss what we can do to make that process more clear to avoid this in the future. Maybe we should just put that on a separate piece of paper so it doesn't get discarded. Would that have helped in your situation?
  3. I have seen that issue before. It's probably hard to tell from looking at the product, but those bends at the top are the absolute limit of the press brake tooling. They're extremely difficult to get lined up in the brake, but the result is definitely worth the effort. It make for an extremely durable and strong panel. We built what we call a "check part" that lays into those bends to make sure they pass QC. I sent a message to my production manager to check that process tomorrow. Thanks for pointing that out! Glad it wasn't a big issue.
  4. We had the same experience with the bolts on our truck. They came right out, but I was using a 1/2" Milwaukee impact. Maybe the key is just more horsepower. 🤣
Thanks again for all of the feedback. This is why I love being so transparent here on the forum. You guys have always gone above and beyond with product suggestions and feedback. We'll continue to support that here with previews and discounts. Thanks!!!
 

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Thank you for the detailed feedback, especially the parts where we can do better. Let me address those individually:
  1. That's great to hear. I really appreciate that. Yes, if you could send some photos, I will add them to the product pages and give you the credit for that! Thank you!!!
  2. If you look on the back of your packing list page, there's a QR Code. Scanning that takes you to our instructions library. The instructions for all of our products are listed there. We did a poll a while back and most people said they preferred digital instructions, so we put a lot of effort into that process. I'll make a note to discuss what we can do to make that process more clear to avoid this in the future. Maybe we should just put that on a separate piece of paper so it doesn't get discarded. Would that have helped in your situation?
  3. I have seen that issue before. It's probably hard to tell from looking at the product, but those bends at the top are the absolute limit of the press brake tooling. They're extremely difficult to get lined up in the brake, but the result is definitely worth the effort. It make for an extremely durable and strong panel. We built what we call a "check part" that lays into those bends to make sure they pass QC. I sent a message to my production manager to check that process tomorrow. Thanks for pointing that out! Glad it wasn't a big issue.
  4. We had the same experience with the bolts on our truck. They came right out, but I was using a 1/2" Milwaukee impact. Maybe the key is just more horsepower. 🤣
Thanks again for all of the feedback. This is why I love being so transparent here on the forum. You guys have always gone above and beyond with product suggestions and feedback. We'll continue to support that here with previews and discounts. Thanks!!!
Here’s a video for you if it helps.

 

donkey

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If it's the same as the one I received, you can't get the bolt into the top of the bulkhead with how it is bent. There is a gap that makes it slightly out of line. I just braced it in a vice, wrapped in some shop towels to try and not scuff it up. Then used a large crescent wrench to bend it more in line where it needs to be. I didn't get it perfect, but I got it close enough that I could get the bolt in. Now that it's installed, I kind of wish I had spent a bit more time getting them lined up better so it's more flush.

edit: also here is the instructions I found earlier in this thread in case you hadn't found them. Unless I'm blind, they aren't on the product page anywhere. It's not a hard install, but the instructions are helpful

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...0_1021_1022-Bed_MOLLE_Panels.pdf?v=1753242206

Also, if you already have that gfc topper installed, I'm not sure how you will be able to attach the top of the bulkhead flange to the bed. It has quite a bit of flex without that bolt installed. I might would look to see if you can get a properly sized nutsert for the top of the bulkhead so you don't need to reach the topside while installing if I were you.
Yeah it took me a while to find the instructions haha! I’d add just a little card with the QR printed on it, or a QR leading to the database with all the instructional files. (I see where it says they are on the back of the packing order…I didn’t see it my bad).

And yeah, I haven’t figured out how to install the front yet. It doesn’t line up for me to use bolts on the pass side (cause its bent slightly off). And I can’t really reach between the camper / truck…So rivnuts might be the way!
 
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Rivet nuts would definitely work, but I'm unsure how the discrepancy between the two parts would affect the install. They should line up well after install, maybe 1mm or so off, but they should install fine. You could always put those bolts in first if there was an issue.

The camper shell could definitely cause an issue, though. Rivet nuts may be the way to go since you have the camper shell.
 

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Rivet nuts would definitely work, but I'm unsure how the discrepancy between the two parts would affect the install. They should line up well after install, maybe 1mm or so off, but they should install fine. You could always put those bolts in first if there was an issue.

The camper shell could definitely cause an issue, though. Rivet nuts may be the way to go since you have the camper shell.
Do you know off the top of your head what size drill bit is needed to install the rivnuts included for the packout? Use those for the front vs. installing packouts?
 
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Do you know off the top of your head what size drill bit is needed to install the rivnuts included for the packout? Use those for the front vs. installing packouts?
It's a 9.2mm (0.362205") hole in the raw aluminum. When we drill for those, which isn't very often, we use a "S" (0.348") drill bit. 11/32" or 23/64" would also work, depending on how tight you want them.
 

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It's a 9.2mm (0.362205") hole in the raw aluminum. When we drill for those, which isn't very often, we use a "S" (0.348") drill bit. 11/32" or 23/64" would also work, depending on how tight you want them.
Thank you! I’ll install some shortly. I will comment that everything lined up perfectly, minus those 2 (due to my camper interference).
 

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I completed my install of the AAL right and left panels on my 2025 Lariat over the holidays. On the left side I used a T40 head to remove the bed tie down bracket bolts. Every one of the bolt heads stripped after a few turns when they hit the generous amount of thread locker used by the factory. I had to use a vice grip to get them the rest of the way out, scratching my bed paint in the process. All of the bolts were trashed. Then I found another thread here identifying the bed bolt heads have TP40 fittings. TP stands for Torx Plus. I ordered a TP40 socket and completed the right side in 30 minutes with a medium size ratchet handle. No stripping, scratching or swearing! Buy a TP40 driver before attempting to remove any of the bed tie down bracket bolts.
 
 







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