AMPLIFIER - Kicker Key 200.4

[vcastag]

Has anyone added a DSP AMPLIFIER (Kicker Key 200.4) to the B&O Systems - with no other changes? I bought it before I sold my Bronco, and I'm thinking about adding to my 2025 Ranger Raptor. I'm curious to understand other experiences, or what to expect. Thanks,

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[Andy Feuer]

Has anyone added a DSP AMPLIFIER (Kicker Key 200.4) to the B&O Systems - with no other changes? I bought it before I sold my Bronco, and I'm thinking about adding to my 2025 Ranger Raptor. I'm curious to understand other experiences, or what to expect. Thanks,

I used the PAC Audio AmpPro for OEM Integration. I have 3 JL Vxi amps, 6 Focal components, and 4 JL subs.

 

[jorosz0309]

I used the PAC Audio AmpPro for OEM Integration. I have 3 JL Vxi amps, 6 Focal components, and 4 JL subs.

Have pictures? Where did you put the 4 JL subs?

 

[Andy Feuer]

Have pictures? Where did you put the 4 JL subs?

I should have clarified, sorry. I completely eliminated the back seat and made it flat straight cross the back for my crazy dogs. All 4 10Tw3's are down firing (sealed).

 

[jorosz0309]

I should have clarified, sorry. I completely eliminated the back seat and made it flat straight cross the back for my crazy dogs.

Would still love to see pics of the subs (I build custom home theater speakers / subs, and run a millwork shop)- always interested in seeing what people have done.

 

[Andy Feuer]

Would still love to see pics of the subs (I build custom home theater speakers / subs, and run a millwork shop)- always interested in seeing what people have done.

You bet. I'll get you some pictures. Also did custom A-Pillars

 

[vcastag]

I used the PAC Audio AmpPro for OEM Integration. I have 3 JL Vxi amps, 6 Focal components, and 4 JL subs.

Thanks Andy. What I am curious about was if anyone else adding a DSP AMP only to their B&O system- with NO other changes made. Will there be improvements in the soundstage that do not require additional upgrades (speaker changes, subwoofer etc). I have a Kicker Key 200.4 AMP already.

 

[Andy Feuer]

Thanks Andy. What I am curious about was if anyone else adding a DSP AMP only to their B&O system- with NO other changes made. Will there be improvements in the soundstage that do not require additional upgrades (speaker changes, subwoofer etc). I have a Kicker Key 200.4 AMP already.

So u just want to amplify the stock speakers with the Key? If yes, that would be a waste of time plus you wouldn't have enough channels.
Sound engineers develop these stock systems and get the max performance out of what they have to work with. Use the PAC AmpPro if want to replace all the speakers. Plus, you don't need (or want) the center channel. I would go 2 or 3way active front, and a really good 10" in that little pocket under the seat. I think JL makes a stealthbox. 5 channel DSP amp like the JL Vx1000/5i. Just my $0.02

 

[Buellsox]

There’s also an outfit out of Australia called Stealth Tech that makes unloaded sub enclosures for the passenger rear tub. Then you can load it with a 10” sub of your choosing. I just had one shipped to Tacoma, WA for just under $220 total and it arrived in about 12 days from Aus.

Plan on adding a Hertz 10” shallow mount sub which should be as good if not better than the JLA and I’ll be roughly $400-500 under the JL setup. This’ll get pushed by a still factory wrapped 2007 made in USA model Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.1 that I’ve been sitting on for nearly 20 years.
Just another thought.

 

[Andy Feuer]

There’s also an outfit out of Australia called Stealth Tech that makes unloaded sub enclosures for the passenger rear tub. Then you can load it with a 10” sub of your choosing. I just had one shipped to Tacoma, WA for just under $220 total and it arrived in about 12 days from Aus.

Plan on adding a Hertz 10” shallow mount sub which should be as good if not better than the JLA and I’ll be roughly $400-500 under the JL setup. This’ll get pushed by a still factory wrapped 2007 made in USA model Rockford Fosgate Punch 300.1 that I’ve been sitting on for nearly 20 years.
Just another thought.

It’s not as easy as that…. U need to know the internal volume in cubic feet and match that to the sub. U can’t just buy a random box and throw whatever sub u prefer. The Qts has to be considered.
Some 10’s need a cubic foot to perform optimally. Others need a 1/2 foot and anywhere in between.
Shoot for 0.707 Qtc or close to.

 

[jorosz0309]

I quite literally design and build speakers and subs for home theater. While I agree internal enclosure volume is important for most subs, there is very little difference to Xmax, sound quality, output, etc for the shallow mount options (the only options that work) from JL and Hertz for this space. So in this case, it really is as easy as that. I have the the JL 10TW3 in a box that’s about .37 while it technically wants .5 sealed. But it performs wonderfully.
I took out the plastic cubby and used it as a form for a fiberglass box that fits back in perfectly. I tried the Aus Stealthtech box but the shape didn’t quite work for the depth of the 10TW3. But the volume is absolutely fine for any of these shallow mount subs. No one would notice a diff in quality.

 

[Andy Feuer]

I quite literally design and build speakers and subs for home theater. While I agree internal enclosure volume is important for most subs, there is very little difference to Xmax, sound quality, output, etc for the shallow mount options (the only options that work) from JL and Hertz for this space. So in this case, it really is as easy as that. I have the the JL 10TW3 in a box that’s about .37 while it technically wants .5 sealed. But it performs wonderfully.
I took out the plastic cubby and used it as a form for a fiberglass box that fits back in perfectly. I tried the Aus Stealthtech box but the shape didn’t quite work for the depth of the 10TW3. But the volume is absolutely fine for any of these shallow mount subs. No one would notice a diff in quality.

You’re wrong, but that’s fine. I have four 10Tw3’s sealed and each has an internal volume of .70.
I guess u don’t care about low end extension and want your subs to only play down to 50hz. Whatever. U don’t like “sub” bass, which is fine if u only listen to 70’s rock.

 

[jorosz0309]

Oh you’re one of those types. Got it. Well seeing as I design and build home theaters that go sub 20 all the time, I know very well what I’m talking about. My own theater has several pro 21 and 24” drivers from Celestion and Dayton. And I don’t care how many TW3s you have or the volume of your box, those aren’t producing any meaningful SPL down below 35hz anyway. Most people in this forum are looking for a little punch to compensate for the factory 5” with the limited space available. And none of those same people, installing just one small 10”, are going to notice a difference between sealed boxes of .40 or .7 or 1.0. Simple as that.

 

[forestclouds]

So u just want to amplify the stock speakers with the Key? If yes, that would be a waste of time plus you wouldn't have enough channels.
Sound engineers develop these stock systems and get the max performance out of what they have to work with. Use the PAC AmpPro if want to replace all the speakers. Plus, you don't need (or want) the center channel. I would go 2 or 3way active front, and a really good 10" in that little pocket under the seat. I think JL makes a stealthbox. 5 channel DSP amp like the JL Vx1000/5i. Just my $0.02

What would you do with the rear door speakers?

 

[Andy Feuer]

Oh you’re one of those types. Got it. Well seeing as I design and build home theaters that go sub 20 all the time, I know very well what I’m talking about. My own theater has several pro 21 and 24” drivers from Celestion and Dayton. And I don’t care how many TW3s you have or the volume of your box, those aren’t producing any meaningful SPL down below 35hz anyway. Most people in this forum are looking for a little punch to compensate for the factory 5” with the limited space available. And none of those same people, installing just one small 10”, are going to notice a difference between sealed boxes of .40 or .7 or 1.0. Simple as that.

Yeah, that's a good point, a better 10 in a box (even suboptimal) would be an improvement. That I agree with. I compete in SQ, and was trying to help from a different standpoint. I wasn't trying to offend u. Sorry!

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