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"on a bicycle you need to worry about unsprung weight, thats where the real savings are." From your link, you should probably read before just copying and pasting.

Go to a sports car forum like Rennlist and you'll get laughed off the board. Track guys put smaller wheels and tires to save unsprung weight and increase braking and handling. It's called inertia. Heard of it? Try to get a 25 lb rolling then try a 50 lb ball, according to you it should take...

It is a 5200 lb truck and the 3.0 can only be pushed so far and still be reliable. Add lightness, start with wheels and tires. It will be quicker if you lose 20-25 lbs. unsprung weight per corner.

For now I believe only European cars come with GPF, Porsche for example has them on the '25 and later 911s. Fortunately they aren't required here so aftermarket exhausts can eliminate them.

Um, a pressure gauge/inflator isn't going to help him get his fingers to grasp the valve stem cap.

That port isn't even the one for tuning, that's just to get it set up on your computer. Plus you need to use the touchscreen to scroll through the menu to tune it, something doesn't add up.

I'm not but now that Cobb is an option I will likely go that route at come point. Nice thing with Cobb is you can unmarry and sell the device and recoup much of the cost (not including the tune obviously). I just didn't feel like data-logging but know it's the best way to dial in a tune. I've...

93 on a 91 tune is fine. To a point more octane is usually better. I ran 93 on the FP tune as well. The hp question has been asked before, I think 93 is worth another 20 hp +/-. As is the S&B intake.

Nice. We have used Cobb in the past but always pro-tuned. Their tunes are conservative likely due to being fined almost $3M by the EPA 18 mos. ago. Just for reference a 5* 93 performance tune makes 441 hp and 512 tq at the wheel. Different dynos of course but still relevant.

I was just checking out Cobb, their stage 2 numbers seem really low compared to other tuners, are you planning to Pro Tune with it?

The Roush are actually 5-6 lbs. lighter per corner.

I have the dry filter with a filter wrap on my S&B as well as both the side and top covers on. It rips from 4k RPM to redline. Sounds great too, with the covers on there is no typical intake whoosh sound, just a little more volume from the turbo. Running the turbos at 22 psi helps with that too.

That is explained in the video. They put the lid on and it made almost no difference, it was within normal margin of error for dyno runs. They also said on the road airflow would be better than a fan so there is no benefit to running it open.

I have referenced this video in other posts. They install the S&B around the 6 minute mark and then dyno again on the same tune and the BR picks up 25 hp. Goosetuned has verified that the S&B makes real gains. You can feel how much freer the top end power feels after install but I do think...

I use and recommend Lucas as well. After watching the SVT video on tuning and dyno testing a Bronco Raptor it was apparent that even suspect 93 can pull a lot of timing. I add a little Lucas when I fill up to make sure I am getting at least 93. It makes a difference especially here with our...

Btw, your S&B, depending on the tune, is worth 15-25 hp, you sold yourself short.

The Roush wheels with +25 don't need them, they work with stock lug nuts fine.

Both and AFE and S&B come with the larger crossover pipe, the S&B one in particular is huge and very smooth. I don't think these pipes would improve on that much and not sure they are worth the cost of an intake if you already have one.

These are intriguing, I wonder how much more flow I would get with my S&B intake (dry filter). The site says it fits their CAI or stock so I would think the S&B aND AEM should work.

I have those on my Marsh Gray and they do have almost a bronze tinge to them but that works well with the color of my truck.