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I had an AT4X for 2 years with the original L3B engine. While it has nothing on the 3.0L in the Raptor, it was a potent little engine. It drove and sounded like a small diesel (minus the rattle... but all the turbo woosh). I have never driven a Ranger with the 2.7L or the 2.3L

I saw on TFL that the new 2027 Canyon (and I assume Colorado) get some engine upgrades including different turbo, injectors, and pistons to pump the 2.7L up to 350hp and 455lb.ft Designated the L4B I was a bit annoyed that Roman said the AT4X/ZR2 and the Rubicon Gladiator were the only...

Just a random screenshot from Amazon. I don’t remember what brand I have, but they are orange 🤷‍♂️

I stopped using steel shackles years ago. Soft shackles only…

Supposedly it only applies to the 10.1" screens, so XL and non-spec'd XLT only

My panel gaps aren't even, but that is ridiculously bad :rolleyes:

Yup… OE charger is a phone cooker I needed something so I ended up putting in a chilled MagSafe charger It uses a fan and Peltier element (thermoelectric cooler) to actively cool the back of the phone while it is charging. Keeps the temps down significantly, but the phone still gets warm...

Finally ran the 8awg silicone wire from the battery to the bed panel to power my XT60 plug. I use XT60 for things like my off-road air compressor There is a spare terminal on the +12v bus bar. I used an inline fuse (currently a 40A). Ran the wire down the back corner and to the harness behind...

Not sure if I'm going to get around to doing an install post. I didn't take very many photos :headbang: What I did have is a message the other day that said "out of memory: reboot your device". So the software isn't perfect yet. I do have the ODB power hooked up so it is powered all the time...

Hadn't read that. That is a dumb way to engineer that... because I'd bet the vast majority of people are definitely NOT going to do that

I believe this is normal behavior. If the wiper is "working" it stays high. If the auto-sense hasn't detected water in 10 or 15 seconds (maybe? never timed it) it drops back down. I do find it a bit annoying when I go to wash the windshield that I need to pull them up and THEN flip them up. But...

1) This is the most fun truck I've ever owned. Both on the street and off it 2) Upgrade for SigLux? How about some configurable step and rock lights? Or better bed lighting that hooks into the OE harness, but also has a freakin' switch IN the bed. Also like the idea of the F-150 Raptor 3rd...

Once again the web interface is not uploading my pictures (in this case a screenshot) Basically, I went to the "Features - TBD" sheet and set the DDM/PDM in the as-built, then enabled anything I could find in the APIM and BCM via the non as-built menus.

Without something like this, the center seatbelt comes down like in my janky drawing:

The tune from Ford is regularly sold out. Keep checking. It goes back in stock just as frequently

So I can confirm my double-tap global open AND close now work :thumbsup: I like the idea of the single press, except then it is harder to leave windows cracked

I found that real VHB and adhesion primer work. Without the promoter things didn’t stay stuck in the summer heat

Yeah, I get that. I was trying to close via the fob. I also enabled the DDM/PDM bit and enabled in the APIM menu too. It is raining now so I'm not going out to test it now :LOL:

I enabled the "global close" today in FORScan while I was doing other stuff, just to see if it worked. So far... no. I'm wondering if there is another module I also need to touch? Looking at the spreadsheet I might also need to touch the DDM and PDM (I only enabled the close in the BCM)

I pulled the console and routed a USB-C cable from the 12v up to the charging area to power my chilled charger The whole thing is "no mod"... i.e. I didn't have to cut or drill anything. I might notch the emergency release cover, but it really isn't a big deal for it to be flexed The charger...