Less than 900 miles and hit with Cam Phaser on cold start up!

[nikhsub1]

Ok so now I'm totally confused. After almost two weeks of zero cam phaser noises it's back. Makes no sense. I didn't think these things come and go. It's definitely a cam phaser but maybe it's a something else causing it? Told dealer. Going to get with Ford engineer next week.

No, it does make sense. When the cam phasers first start to go tits up, they don't make noise every cold startup. In fact, it could be very sporadic as you are experiencing. It isn't until they really go that they make noise every cold start and then every start. I have a gen 2 raptor and my phasers started rattling at around 10k miles and I didn't have them addressed until 45k miles... by then they were making noise all the time, even at idle.

Sponsored

 

[danmoochie]

No, it does make sense. When the cam phasers first start to go tits up, they don't make noise every cold startup. In fact, it could be very sporadic as you are experiencing. It isn't until they really go that they make noise every cold start and then every start. I have a gen 2 raptor and my phasers started rattling at around 10k miles and I didn't have them addressed until 45k miles... by then they were making noise all the time, even at idle.

wow. Never knew that. Then it does make sense. I just wish they would drop a new motor in and Call it done.

 

[nikhsub1]

wow. Never knew that. Then it does make sense. I just wish they would drop a new motor in and Call it done.

Problem isn't with the motor. It's just the phasers.

 

[hand-filer]

Ford should have designed the phaser like a cartridge whereby the cam sprocket could stay in place to facilitate quicker replacement.
Seriously Ford! you've had 20+ years to figure it out. WTF!

 

[telenerd]

My Bronco had a very small amount of ticking when new for startup. Went away after being broken in and using full synthetic oil that meets Ford Specs.

 

[danmoochie]

Problem isn't with the motor. It's just the phasers.

Uhm same thing. Still the motor. And without repair will indeed cause further damage and regardless sounds embarrassing and like shit. No reason for it in this day and age.

 

[danmoochie]

My Bronco had a very small amount of ticking when new for startup. Went away after being broken in and using full synthetic oil that meets Ford Specs.

I've heard thicker or better oils might work. What oil are you using?

 

[telenerd]

I've heard thicker or better oils might work. What oil are you using?

Valvoline 5-30w extended protection. Meets ford special specs WSS-M2C961-A1.

 

[danmoochie]

So just to follow up. Over 2k miles no return of horrible cam phasers. I do get a very slight, ever so slight noise immediately at cold start but you almost have to listen for it. But other than that she's running fine. Odd. Hoping it was just a break in issue.

 

[SeventhGear]

So something to note, as I freaked out at the oil pressure thing too. Its 95F degrees where im at now, this engine runs super hot "comparing to other engines, TTs always do". This is why they chose 5w30, and not that GARBAGE 0w20 most dick sucking hippy leftoid EPA worshipers use to get their cars rated an additional .00001mpg to display on the window sticker. Gotta rack up those commie credit points I guess. But on track again, mine idles on cold start in summer at about 21.8 psi. This is normal. Drive around, watch the number in the guages screen not that stupid semi circle thing. It will be between 30 to 40 during accel, even higher if your beating on it. Thats not LOW. To put that in perspective for people who dont know wtf PSI really is, or have no mech knowledge, equate it to something you may use all the time. Your houses water. On average with a properly installed regulator, your homes water should be around 65 to 75psi max. Your water hose at half an inch reduced to a nosel thats LARGER than the average oil gally can spray like 30 yards. Your engines about 3ft long bro and it only has to lift the oil about 35 inches from the pickup to the valve train at its highest point. If your pressure was like 2psi, worry. Mine makes weird noises too. But heres the thing. I thought my 2009 370 nismo made weird noises. Then I got a 13 370 nismo and realized it didnt. Then I thought my 17 FoRS made weird noises, then I thought my 19 trd pro taco made weird noises, and now I think my 24 raptor makes weird noises. Know why? Because I have literally zero frame of reference on what those SPECIFIC cars/trucks SHOULD sound like. Only way you can do that is get a control group of exactly the same vehicles, and listen. Im not saying there arent sounds that are obvious, like a knock or a slipping belt. But lets be real here. Do you have a perfect control reference to compare too. Is anything actually broken. Does the vehicle function as intended. Seems to me, you have new car anxiety. I get it every time I have a new car. Is mine ok? Is it as fast as everyone elses? Omg whats that noise? Did the factory fuck MINE up? Yeah. 99% of the time its fine.

 

[danmoochie]

So something to note, as I freaked out at the oil pressure thing too. Its 95F degrees where im at now, this engine runs super hot "comparing to other engines, TTs always do". This is why they chose 5w30, and not that GARBAGE 0w20 most dick sucking hippy leftoid EPA worshipers use to get their cars rated an additional .00001mpg to display on the window sticker. Gotta rack up those commie credit points I guess. But on track again, mine idles on cold start in summer at about 21.8 psi. This is normal. Drive around, watch the number in the guages screen not that stupid semi circle thing. It will be between 30 to 40 during accel, even higher if your beating on it. Thats not LOW. To put that in perspective for people who dont know wtf PSI really is, or have no mech knowledge, equate it to something you may use all the time. Your houses water. On average with a properly installed regulator, your homes water should be around 65 to 75psi max. Your water hose at half an inch reduced to a nosel thats LARGER than the average oil gally can spray like 30 yards. Your engines about 3ft long bro and it only has to lift the oil about 35 inches from the pickup to the valve train at its highest point. If your pressure was like 2psi, worry. Mine makes weird noises too. But heres the thing. I thought my 2009 370 nismo made weird noises. Then I got a 13 370 nismo and realized it didnt. Then I thought my 17 FoRS made weird noises, then I thought my 19 trd pro taco made weird noises, and now I think my 24 raptor makes weird noises. Know why? Because I have literally zero frame of reference on what those SPECIFIC cars/trucks SHOULD sound like. Only way you can do that is get a control group of exactly the same vehicles, and listen. Im not saying there arent sounds that are obvious, like a knock or a slipping belt. But lets be real here. Do you have a perfect control reference to compare too. Is anything actually broken. Does the vehicle function as intended. Seems to me, you have new car anxiety. I get it every time I have a new car. Is mine ok? Is it as fast as everyone elses? Omg whats that noise? Did the factory fuck MINE up? Yeah. 99% of the time its fine.

Lol you put some work into that one. But you're probably spot on. Thanks

 

[Johnny 5]

I grew up in the 70s and back then, when we rebuilt our own engines, there was one group that said, break it in like you drive it and 1 group that said, baby it for the first 2000 miles. A friend of mine rebuilt his and babied his for the first 2000 miles. And right after 2000 miles, the first time he stomped on it. He spun a rod bearing because the piston hit the ridge that was worn in the cylinder at low rpms. As this guy right here will describe, this was not written by me, but I agree totally with him.


"NEVER RUN A COLD ENGINE HARD!!! I can’t stress this enough. No, the coolant temperature gauge does not tell the whole story. It only tells you if the coolant is up to temperature, not the engine oil, gearbox oil or diff oil (if it has a separate diff). It takes about 15–20 minutes of urban driving for everything to get up to operating temperature. Longer if you’re just cruising on a highway.



When breaking in a new engine, as the piston has to stop and change direction causes the conrod to stretch and compress on a microscopic level, and the crankshaft also flexes on a microscopic level. So because of that, the piston travels ever so slightly further at high RPM, where eventually meke a ridge. Take an engine that did high mileage only at low RPM, during the break in period, to redline, and that could potentially cause the rings to hit the ridges and break and cause other things to break. Fairly regularly taking the car to redline pretty much completely eliminates that risk. "


And doing it on a brand new engine is just fine! I break them in like I drive them and my engines are the strongest. Whoever buys my vehicle after I'm done with it. Gets a d*** good engine!

I'm just saying all this because I keep hearing people talking about the break in period. Break it in the way you drive it. Don't baby it, but do make sure everything is heated up like this guy stated, not just your gages telling you it's hot, but let the heat soak in to every part on it first.

 

[hand-filer]

I grew up in the 70s and back then, when we rebuilt our own engines, there was one group that said, break it in like you drive it and 1 group that said, baby it for the first 2000 miles. A friend of mine rebuilt his and babied his for the first 2000 miles. And right after 2000 miles, the first time he stomped on it. He spun a rod bearing because the piston hit the ridge that was worn in the cylinder at low rpms. As this guy right here will describe, this was not written by me, but I agree totally with him.


"NEVER RUN A COLD ENGINE HARD!!! I can’t stress this enough. No, the coolant temperature gauge does not tell the whole story. It only tells you if the coolant is up to temperature, not the engine oil, gearbox oil or diff oil (if it has a separate diff). It takes about 15–20 minutes of urban driving for everything to get up to operating temperature. Longer if you’re just cruising on a highway.



When breaking in a new engine, as the piston has to stop and change direction causes the conrod to stretch and compress on a microscopic level, and the crankshaft also flexes on a microscopic level. So because of that, the piston travels ever so slightly further at high RPM, where eventually meke a ridge. Take an engine that did high mileage only at low RPM, during the break in period, to redline, and that could potentially cause the rings to hit the ridges and break and cause other things to break. Fairly regularly taking the car to redline pretty much completely eliminates that risk. "


And doing it on a brand new engine is just fine! I break them in like I drive them and my engines are the strongest. Whoever buys my vehicle after I'm done with it. Gets a d*** good engine!

I'm just saying all this because I keep hearing people talking about the break in period. Break it in the way you drive it. Don't baby it, but do make sure everything is heated up like this guy stated, not just your gages telling you it's hot, but let the heat soak in to every part on it first.

An engine will not form a ridge after 2,000 miles. Maybe he should have used a ridge reamer prior to reassembly.

 

[Johnny 5]

An engine will not form a ridge after 2,000 miles. Maybe he should have used a ridge reamer prior to reassembly.

Not a very big one. But put a bore gage in an engine cylinder with 100,000 miles on it and there is a difference between where the piston ring rides and the part of the cylinder above where the ring rides. Even a small amount can do damage if the rings slam into it. If that doesn't happen in newer engines made with different materials, then I stand corrected.

 

[danmoochie]

Sponsored