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Ranger Raptor towing tounge weight question

GrumpyOldPizza

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I am looking into buying an RV trailer, the the inTech Sol Dusk is a candidate for that. Lists 4,800lbs as GVWR, but 540 - 575lbs as the tongue weight. Ranger Raptor specs say max tongue weight is 550lbs. The tailer does not lend itself to be easily rebalanced. Anyway to Ford towing spec seems to imply that one should not use a weight distribution hitch. Tried to hook up a dry one, and it looks like that here:

Ford Ranger Ranger Raptor towing tounge weight question 1718665734391-v7


So not that bad. Question is whether it's still safe to got that route, should I hit 575lbs, without WDH or suspension rework ?
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totally fine. try to run as short of a 2" hitch as possible. I drilled a new pin hole in my 4"drop hitch and it now sits almost 2" closer to the bumper. this keeps the leverage to a minimum.
 

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If you look at the Ford towing guide, you exceed GCVW rating by 125lbs, and the frontal area specification by 3 sq/ft. That is a pretty big number. While you may be able to pull off towing this thing around, with your location in Oregon, your geography is not exactly flat ground. I wouldn't worry so much about not being able to pull it, I would be more worried about stopping. I would take a hard look at how much stuff you would load into the bed of the truck and in the trailer. https://www.fordpro.com/en-us/fleet-vehicles/manuals-and-guides/
 

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I am looking into buying an RV trailer, the the inTech Sol Dusk is a candidate for that. Lists 4,800lbs as GVWR, but 540 - 575lbs as the tongue weight. Ranger Raptor specs say max tongue weight is 550lbs. The tailer does not lend itself to be easily rebalanced. Anyway to Ford towing spec seems to imply that one should not use a weight distribution hitch. Tried to hook up a dry one, and it looks like that here:

1718665734391-v7.png


So not that bad. Question is whether it's still safe to got that route, should I hit 575lbs, without WDH or suspension rework ?
I know this doesn't directly answer your question, but I was also looking at the inTech Sol models a little while back. I came across this handy calculator. Maybe it's helpful if you didn't already have one. I'm a big fan of those inTech's (just not a fan of the price) :D
 

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Easy basic rule of thumb for commercial towing; one axle F150, two axles F250, three axles F350 and above.

I can tell your for a fact as a dispatcher and operator; If you go into a rental company and attempt to rent a dual axle trailer, you’d better have an F250. They won’t rent you a dual axle trailer with a F150 class truck.???
 

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Easy basic rule of thumb for commercial towing; one axle F150, two axles F250, three axles F350 and above.

I can tell your for a fact as a dispatcher and operator; If you go into a rental company and attempt to rent a dual axle trailer, you’d better have an F250. They won’t rent you a dual axle trailer with a F150 class truck.???
That has got to be one of the silliest “rule of thumb”s that I’ve ever heard.
You can easily have an F150 that is tow rated to 11k lbs from the factory. Does that mean that I shouldn’t pull my 7k lb rated 16’ landscape trailer behind it w/ x2 3500# axles?

Number of axles is such a small part of determining an appropriate tow vehicle for a trailer…
 

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I am looking into buying an RV trailer, the the inTech Sol Dusk is a candidate for that. Lists 4,800lbs as GVWR, but 540 - 575lbs as the tongue weight. Ranger Raptor specs say max tongue weight is 550lbs. The tailer does not lend itself to be easily rebalanced. Anyway to Ford towing spec seems to imply that one should not use a weight distribution hitch. Tried to hook up a dry one, and it looks like that here:

1718665734391-v7.webp


So not that bad. Question is whether it's still safe to got that route, should I hit 575lbs, without WDH or suspension rework ?
Hi there, did you end up buying the dusk? I was actually considering this model, but will likely buy a small airstream instead. I also have the same issue of pushing the limit on the tongue weight, just curious how it tows a
large(ish) trailer. Did you end up using a WD hitch? Thanks
 
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Hi there, did you end up buying the dusk? I was actually considering this model, but will likely buy a small airstream instead. I also have the same issue of pushing the limit on the tongue weight, just curious how it tows a
large(ish) trailer. Did you end up using a WD hitch? Thanks
I did end up getting the Horizon, but I did upgrade the electric system (300Ah battery and such), so that the tongue weight went up quite a bit. A Anderson WD hitch solved the squatting problem (and much of the bouncing). The way the Anderson WD hitch works (longitudinal dampening via polymer) is something very helpful for a single axle trailer. We had looked at Airstreams as well, but aside from the price, we did not like the layout of the beds in the Bambi/Caravel.

Overall I had been very much naive about tongue weight, and perhaps made some wrong calls. IMHO with those small trailers you need a WD, as in practice you cannot fully balance the unit, simply because you don't have a lot of movable payload to play with, and no good spaces to redistribute said payload to.
 

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Thank you for the reply! I am also struggling with the beds in most of the Bambi/caravel models (as well as the silly cost). Knowing you are doing ok towing the Horizon maybe I will add that back to my list. I would absolutely get a WD hitch even on a smaller trailer. Too risky without.
 
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GrumpyOldPizza

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Thank you for the reply! I am also struggling with the beds in most of the Bambi/caravel models (as well as the silly cost). Knowing you are doing ok towing the Horizon maybe I will add that back to my list. I would absolutely get a WD hitch even on a smaller trailer. Too risky without.
Maybe my decision process might help you. I wanted a full queen. The RV matresses are painfully bad, and non-standard sizes are difficult to get sheets for. Only the 22ft layout for Banbi/Caravel gives you that, but compared to the inTech Horizon/Dusk you lose the nice front dinette (with this killer panoramic window). The downside of the Horizon is the low payload (4000lbs axle, which however you can replace with a 5000lbs axle, like in the Dusk, so a simple problem to solve). The Dusk has the twin bed layout, but does not gain any real extra storage space. Worse, the Dusk puts all the outside storage on the curb side, meaning you have even less opportunity to balance. We ended up with the Horizon understanding that a lot of the payload would end up in the truck bed for longer trips. Went with the Rover package, but without offgrid. Added a 300Ah LiFePo4, plus a 3000W inverter/charger, a MPPT for a ground solar (400W) and a MPPT for a roof solar (600W). Have not added yet a DC/DC charger for the 7 pin ... The offgrid package is $8k for a 200Ah battery and a 2000 inverter/changer that does not power the AC, and only 300W roof solar, and no MPPT for a outside panel, so less for more money.

And Airstream only makes sense to me with a double axle setup, and a 25ft or 27ft floorplan, but that is $125k+, and a different tow vehicle.

A few months back I personally was not as self confident modding a trailer, and that played into the decision process a lot. TODAY I migh pick a Dusk, modify the dual twin beds to a standard queen, add extra storage on the driver side (you got 2ft to play with there), and add either a 2 ft sitting area on the curb side, and/or some wall attached storage for pots and pants, coat hanging. The balancing issue can be solved with a WD and a bike rack for e-bikes, or perhaps build in generator in the rear (Onan 2500LP). Does that move the needle big time overall, maybe yes, maybe no. At the end of the day, I have ZERO regrets. It's my first truck, it's my first trailer. Nothing is perfect the first time around. My wife enjoys it a lot and gives me crap why I did not get a F-150 Raptor so that she can get the bigger airstream. A good problem to have,
 

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GrumpyOldPizza

GrumpyOldPizza

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I would absolutely get a WD hitch even on a smaller trailer. Too risky without.
Sparate reply to that one. I have towed with and without in decent crosswinds. The Ranger Raptor dealt with it. ZERO problems. First trip we did a mountain pass (yeah, Colorado). The power and torque of the Ranger Raptor made that a blast. 70 mph, no big deal. Uphill, no sweat, downhill, no sweat. My biggest issue with the single axle setup (other than the escalating tongue weight) was the bouncing over concrete slab type highways.
 

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Thanks again - all this is super helpful!! Maybe I will give the intech another look. Glad to hear the tow experience has been a good one. I have the same issue with the full size raptor discussion. I do like this truck though (also my first truck).
 

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FYI, that downward sloping front glass (without a well padded travel cover) is going to be very hazardous, it will deflect any stones that go over the top of your truck straight back down into your truck. If you get a topper, add some PPF to the rear glass to prevent an expensive breakage, Do you have mudflaps on the RR? They will help a little to reduce damage to the trailer frame and the lower fiberglass. Body mounted ones for sure, plus Rock Tamers or similar removable ones when actually towing. The stock RR tires are pure nasty in terms of trapping and then flinging rocks above 45 mph. Replace them with just about any other kind.

The best solution if you plan to tow on gravel and dirt is a set of Stone Stompers. I used this for seven years on my Ollie and there was ZERO stone damage to the front of the trailer.

https://olivertraveltrailers.com/forums/topic/2504-how-to-stone-stomper-gravel-guard/

The Andersen hitch is a very excellent choice, but do not be afraid to fine tune the nut preload. Even a 1/8 turn will make a noticeable difference. Don’t blindly rely on the setting that the dealer used. Most of the jouncing that occurs on concrete slab highways is inevitable, especially with a single axle trailer, but you can reduce it by playing around with the nuts. Keep the ball well lubed or it can gall and squeak.

How do you like the trailer? FYI it is not possible to increase the rated payload of any vehicle, including a trailer, by installing a stouter axle. That number is on the payload sticker and the manufacturer determines it. A heavier axle will help control the weight better, when the trailer is fully loaded, but you will be in legal trouble if you are overloaded and it results in a personal injury accident, and it may void your insurance. Also, changing tongue weight by adding stuff to the rear of the trailer can be very bad, especially on a single axle trailer with worn crappy suspension.

John Davies

Ford Ranger Ranger Raptor towing tounge weight question IMG_7114
 
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GrumpyOldPizza

GrumpyOldPizza

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FYI, that downward sloping front glass (without a well padded travel cover) is going to be very hazardous, it will deflect any stones that go over the top of your truck straight back down into your truck. If you get a topper, add some PPF to the rear glass to prevent an expensive breakage, Do you have mudflaps on the RR? They will help a little to reduce damage to the trailer frame and the lower fiberglass. Body mounted ones for sure, plus Rock Tamers or similar removable ones when actually towing. The stock RR tires are pure nasty in terms of trapping and then flinging rocks above 45 mph. Replace them with just about any other kind.
The trailer comes with a padded front window cover. Don't have mudflaps on the RR, but it had been on my list. From Airstreams I had seen some bumper attached mudflaps. That might be an option. On the other hand, I had not have any issue with gravel, yet.

The Andersen hitch is a very excellent choice, but do not be afraid to fine tune the nut preload. Even a 1/8 turn will make a noticeable difference. Don’t blindly rely on the setting that the dealer used.
Self installed ;-) And yes, finetuning the preload is a must. It's a tad tricky, because you also want to be able to disconnect the chains, without having to losen the nuts. I have not found yet the optimum between bouncing and quatting. But night and day compared to without.

How do you like the trailer? FYI it is not possible to increase the rated payload of any vehicle, including a trailer, by installing a stouter axle.
Actually that does not matter, however my wife lover the trailer ;-) Oliver was on my list as well, but it was style wise not acceptable to said wife. It had been quite a journey trying to find something. Overall the inTech Horizon seems to be 85% perfect. Guess their target customer is a bit different from my specific needs, but it had been less of a compromise that anything else out there.

The axle on the trailer is a tad close to limit as is. There had been a lot of warranty replacements if you scan the forums (which might as well stem from the fact that folks massively overload the trailer). Should this happen to me, then upgrading the axle is adding to the piece of mind. It's not the intention to add 1000 lbs of extra payload.
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