Does this look safe? Bed rack mounting.

[pablo94sc]

Got myself a Wildtop Beast for my RTT and gear, and after getting it on the bed, it looks like it should be wider to sit fully over the shims. Am I overthinking this?

Side note: Not sure it's readily apparent, but my bed rail caps cupped slightly from just two years of a light weight, soft fold tonneau resting on them. Definitely NOT structural. Bad form, Ford.

PS: that cargo net (test fitted here) for the back of an SUV or truck bed makes a pretty good place to stash boots, helmets and other misc gear, especially once the canvas top is installed.

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[superj]

dang, you are barely on those shims. that is kind of risky looking

 

[pablo94sc]

dang, you are barely on those shims. that is kind of risky looking

My thoughts as well. The weight really should be more centered over the shims. Nothing they couldn't remedy with 1" longer east-west rails and some wider clamps. I'm hoping they reply soon.

Only other negative is the rail slots don't have wide, in-rail slots for adding full size t-nuts and bolts after assembly. You have to plan your accessory mounting ahead of time with this design.

 

[John E Davies]

It looks more than a little sketchy to me, but I think you need to ask the manufacturer about it. It looks like the entire rack should be a couple of inches wider. I tried going to their website and got a “Server not found” error message.

If you did not already do this, you should definitely have anti seize compound on the threads, because stainless nuts with stainless bolts will definitely be risky in terms of galling, especially if you use a power driver to run them down snug. When one locks up tight, you must use brute force to remove the nut, a 2 foot breaker bar works OK, just break the bolt. It is best to avoid that scenario in the first place.

https://stainless-steel-world.net/galling-is-seriousbut-there-are-solutions/

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[pablo94sc]

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to add a little bit to the grooves before final tightening.

Site is up for me. This the link you used?

https://www.wild-top.com/

 

[GordonR]

I would make some brackets to mount it on the shims and ditch the clamps. A few minutes in onshape/fusion and then have it cut/bent by sendcutsend

 

[superj]

the pic on their site shows the base and clamps almost identically lined up like yours on the shims.

theirs
yours

 

[pablo94sc]

I would make some brackets to mount it on the shims and ditch the clamps. A few minutes in onshape/fusion and then have it cut/bent by sendcutsend

This is why I wanted AAL to make top plate brackets for their shims to mount single or double rail 15 series extrusions. Before I found this rack, every other option to keep the bed covered and run a rack came with compromises I didn't like. T rails on the bed caps would have made installing a roll up tonneau, and a t-slot rack a breeze.

 

[superj]

i wonder if there is any slight adjustability in the bolting together of the rack to move the base out a half an inch or so on each side? then you could slide the bases outwards to the max amount allowed on the clamps, for now? its probably not much more than 1/4 or 1/8" more but its still a little more

 

[Ron Quixote]

Side note: Not sure it's readily apparent, but my bed rail caps cupped slightly from just two years of a light weight, soft fold tonneau resting on them. Definitely NOT structural. Bad form, Ford.

This is one reason I favor a bed cover like Leer, which sits inside the rails and places minimal weight on them. The weight is largely carried by Leer’s own rails which mount inside of the bed. The cheaper Amazon covers sit entirely on these rails caps and can deform them over time.

Ford’s bed rail cap design is retarded.

 

[GordonR]

You don't even need bent brackets, you could use regular plates with countersunk bolts and bolt it to the bottom of the rails (bonus that will lift them off the bed rails a little). Then you have nothing in the tray area and can install any cover you want.
If you have a 3d printer it would be simple to make a few mock ups before getting something cut.

 

[pablo94sc]

the pic on their site shows the base and clamps almost identically lined up like yours on the shims.

theirs
yours

Good catch. That looks like their scout model based on the rear window. That's not rated for much weight at all, maybe a sheet of plywood. But that's beside the point. I don't think the shims are going to like an offset load, but maybe the caps are sturdier than we thought?

 

[superj]

i dont think the caps are sturdy at all. i put my shims and took the top plate off so my tonneau is a little lower and the caps are all funky shaped now. i think they are just for looks

 

[pablo94sc]

You don't even need bent brackets, you could use regular plates with countersunk bolts and bolt it to the bottom of the rails (bonus that will lift them off the bed rails a little). Then you have nothing in the tray area and can install any cover you want.
If you have a 3d printer it would be simple to make a few mock ups before getting something cut.

Wait, you reminded me that I could slide some standard bolts in the rails, mount the shims to the rails first, then drop it onto the bed. Remove the nuts, add fender washers, then torque it all down. Bob's your uncle. I'll need wider east-west rails for that from Wildtop.

 

[GordonR]

yep, that would work too if you got wider top rails. Looks like its just basic 80/20 or similar.
I would probably reverse the direction though, put double tslot nuts in the rails and then bolts from the bed up to the nuts in the rail (this way you could cut the bolts to the right length).
these https://a2asystems.ca/shop/profile-...ounts/double-t-slot-nut-for-floor-mount-base/

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