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The dealer got it to start, but it has over 80 DTCs... They are working with Ford Engineering, but at this point I might try to get Ford to swap it out.

Had issues ever since flashing, then probably 200 miles later it died. It is under warranty and the battery voltage is fine. It is at the dealer.

The tune flashes the PCM.

My truck is dead, instrument cluster went haywire while driving and now Forscan cannot communicate with the PCM.

I just got back from a work trip and now my Ranger won't start. Got it towed to the dealer. Now we wait.

The further the weight is from the hub, the more of an impact applied. The beauty ring and hardware is over 5 lbs just on its own, so going down to a 27 lbs wheel will be a significant change, since a lot of the weight of the factory wheels is at the edge of the rim. Better balancing too, since...

So frustrating.

Love it. Those are some of my favorite wheels.

I'll upload a video of the 15 trouble codes in a bit. The day before this I tried going into Off Road mode and then selecting 4Lo. I ended up getting stuck in 4Lo and limp mode. I fixed it by turning off the truck, opening the driver's door, and turning back on the truck.

The Ranger Raptor was specifically engineered for its factory ride height and tires. That's why there are not great ways to lift these. Live Valve coilovers on all four corners with a rear watts link makes it extremely difficult. Portals are really the only way to go. I'd say if someone...

Sound deadening is your friend. These Rangers don't have much. You can tell just by opening or shutting a door. It sounds very hollow.

With the Tacoma fully out now, I think people are skipping the TRD Pro and Trail Hunter, and going with the RR instead.

I don't think there is enough travel to curve. It's about 11" total IIRC.

Watts link is better than a panhard/ track bar. A panhard bar causes the axle to swing in an arch. It is never truly centered except at ride height (Assuming that is where it is neutral and centered). The watts link is more expensive and keeps the axle centered throughout its range of motion.

MM is one of the most misunderstood laws on the internet. The short is, MM covers parts like an OE replacement alternator or tie rod from a third party, say Moog, not aftermarket performance parts that change the original design or specifications.

They make them LHD already. I always try to rent one when I am in LATAM.

Ford needs to bring the Everest to the US desperately. I think it would do quite well against the 4Runner and Land Cruiser.

Mine was a kit from my previous Bronco. The RR is a little wider (more threads), but a Bronco tie rod will work still in an emergency. So for now, my kit just has a OEM Bronco tie rod in it. Apex advertises that theirs fit both the Bronco and RR: Ford Bronco Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit - Apex...

Tie rod should be a fusible link and I highly recommend keeping a spare on you plus the tools to swap. I do.

It's a very expensive part, but the fact that it's OEM Ford is a huge plus. Shouldn't have any warranty concerns.