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Less than 900 miles and hit with Cam Phaser on cold start up!

SubaruRaptor

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Jory
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I grew up in the 70s and back then, when we rebuilt our own engines, there was one group that said, break it in like you drive it and 1 group that said, baby it for the first 2000 miles. A friend of mine rebuilt his and babied his for the first 2000 miles. And right after 2000 miles, the first time he stomped on it. He spun a rod bearing because the piston hit the ridge that was worn in the cylinder at low rpms. As this guy right here will describe, this was not written by me, but I agree totally with him.


"NEVER RUN A COLD ENGINE HARD!!! I can’t stress this enough. No, the coolant temperature gauge does not tell the whole story. It only tells you if the coolant is up to temperature, not the engine oil, gearbox oil or diff oil (if it has a separate diff). It takes about 15–20 minutes of urban driving for everything to get up to operating temperature. Longer if you’re just cruising on a highway.



When breaking in a new engine, as the piston has to stop and change direction causes the conrod to stretch and compress on a microscopic level, and the crankshaft also flexes on a microscopic level. So because of that, the piston travels ever so slightly further at high RPM, where eventually meke a ridge. Take an engine that did high mileage only at low RPM, during the break in period, to redline, and that could potentially cause the rings to hit the ridges and break and cause other things to break. Fairly regularly taking the car to redline pretty much completely eliminates that risk. "


And doing it on a brand new engine is just fine! I break them in like I drive them and my engines are the strongest. Whoever buys my vehicle after I'm done with it. Gets a d*** good engine!

I'm just saying all this because I keep hearing people talking about the break in period. Break it in the way you drive it. Don't baby it, but do make sure everything is heated up like this guy stated, not just your gages telling you it's hot, but let the heat soak in to every part on it first.
Your engines aren't any better then anyone else's lol, thats not how any of this works. The argument for how to break an engine is not somehow suddenly over because you want it to be.

The only thing people agree on is an early oil change to remove metal bits. Some do so more then others are whatever interval. The truth be told its an impossible argument as there are too many variables to process to land on a concrete decision. Weather, elevation, manufacturing tolerances for the engine at every level and assembly, tolerances for the oil and coolant, driving conditions, gravity. You literally have no way of being able to test every single combination to come up with "proper" guidance.

Generally speaking the vast majority of folks drive their car exactly how they would normally. Anyone who has rebuilt or built an engine tends to do slower break ins because tolerances for work done in someones garage with questionable tools, experience, and 3rd party parts asks for more caution.

Your friend spinning a rod had nothing to do with low rpms, just bad luck or incorrect parts.
 

Johnny 5

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John C
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Your engines aren't any better then anyone else's lol, thats not how any of this works. The argument for how to break an engine is not somehow suddenly over because you want it to be.

The only thing people agree on is an early oil change to remove metal bits. Some do so more then others are whatever interval. The truth be told its an impossible argument as there are too many variables to process to land on a concrete decision. Weather, elevation, manufacturing tolerances for the engine at every level and assembly, tolerances for the oil and coolant, driving conditions, gravity. You literally have no way of being able to test every single combination to come up with "proper" guidance.

Generally speaking the vast majority of folks drive their car exactly how they would normally. Anyone who has rebuilt or built an engine tends to do slower break ins because tolerances for work done in someones garage with questionable tools, experience, and 3rd party parts asks for more caution.

Your friend spinning a rod had nothing to do with low rpms, just bad luck or incorrect parts.
It's official. Let the games begin.
Glad to hear you are getting your issue rectified! Your issue was the one that worried me the most. It's also good to know FoMoCo is owning up to it! We all beat up Ford on here but give them credit for this one.......
 
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danmoochie

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dan
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Glad to hear you are getting your issue rectified! Your issue was the one that worried me the most. It's also good to know FoMoCo is owning up to it! We all beat up Ford on here but give them credit for this one.......
Not opting in yet. I'm gonna wait until it starts back up. Plus I want to see if they are installing a different part number for the cams. No reason to go through it all for same marginal parts.
 

nikhsub1

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Scott
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Glad to hear you are getting your issue rectified! Your issue was the one that worried me the most. It's also good to know FoMoCo is owning up to it! We all beat up Ford on here but give them credit for this one.......
Give them credit? Really? They have had this cam phaser issue for YEARS now and it is still happening.
 

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Johnny 5

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OP
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danmoochie

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That's not the same issue as the cam phasers. Completely different issue and if you are on that recall I'm sure it's a motor swap.
 

Johnny 5

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I hope they fix the problem correctly and make you happy so you can finally enjoy your Ranger Raptor! Maybe ask them for a free engine mod for all the crap you have been through.......
 
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danmoochie

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Ok I gave up. Traded it back in. Could not sit an wait for total cam phaser melt down. Still not sure how Ford lets this known issue occur. But I'm out.
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