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Lift Spacers Interchangeable Front/Rear?

SR-71Ranger

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Regarding the lift spacers such as the ones GOAT sells, are the front and rear spacers identical?

I ask because I’d like a 1.5/1 lift.

1.5” FRONT lift spacers can be had for about $80 on Amazon and have heard this same spacer when placed on the rear will yield a 1” lift.

If true, $160 will get a 1.5/1 lift.

Thanks for any insight on this!
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OxygenMask

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I edited my post.
Looks like they are indeed interchangeable. Spacer thickness for front lift is well documented, but the question is what thickness spacer nets how much lift in the rear.
 
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SR-71Ranger

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I edited my post.
Looks like they are indeed interchangeable. Spacer thickness for front lift is well documented, but the question is what thickness spacer nets how much lift in the rear.
You’re awesome. Can’t believe I missed that when I went specifically looking for this info on their site.
To your point, now just need to confirm if the 1.5” front lift spacer yields a 1” lift in the rear.

I’d imagine a company like GOAT uses stronger rated hardware than anyone on Amazon though so there’s always that to be concerned about.

I appreciate you finding that!
 

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OxygenMask

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I plan on lifting mine a bit. No "leveling" though, I intend to haul stuff and tow, aside from off roading. So I'll need the rake as designed. Plus a front winch. Then new springs to carry the extra load.
I just need to figure out how to hide the $$ from the wife.... :lipssealed:
 
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SR-71Ranger

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I plan on lifting mine a bit. No "leveling" though, I intend to haul stuff and tow, aside from off roading. So I'll need the rake as designed. Plus a front winch. Then new springs to carry the extra load.
I just need to figure out how to hide the $$ from the wife.... :lipssealed:
Haha same boat here. Minimal lift to run 34’s and it’ll still retain some rake. Although with the right offset I should be anble to fit 35x11.5 tires. Only hauling I do could be done with a small SUV so not worried about load or squat.

Also looking at cost cutting to help support the many other mods I’d like to do. And yes, the “boss” must approve!
 

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lancerdood

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Lion77

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You can run skinnie 35's with just a 1.5 / 1 lift from GOAT. In order to run 315's or fat 35's you need 2 / 1 lift. I'm NOT a fan of pushing the front geometry to the edge at 2" because you at its limits. I'd prefer 1 to 1.5 at most and like some others, I do not want to level mine at all.

1. Leveling ruins handling dynamics during braking and acceleration. Frontend wanders excessively, during acceleration you lose frontend grip as there's to much weight transfer to the rear.

2. Obviously your nose high with any moderate payload, forget maxing out the bed / towing. Sure, it'll still tow even sticking its nose to the sky, but your stability and line of sight is severely compromised = not good for safety / drivability.

For me, I've SLOOOWWWWLLLYYY been moving over to the skinny 35 camp where I have been in the stock 33's camp since I bought the truck. There are merits to both, but I want a bit more off-road capability and skinny 35's with a mild lift is about as good as it gets for this truck and I think that is the sweet spot that balances handle, braking, negative effects of sprung mass, gearing and static stability factor.

If I ever figure out how to do a decent DIY 7-8mm front fender lift so I can run just a 1" front lift (would still have about 1" of rake as mine has about 2" stock) and skinny 35's I'll do a write up. My KO3's aren't that bad yet so it will be a while, gives me time to hack up my truck in the garage in my spare time, muahahah!!!!
 
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SR-71Ranger

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You can run skinnie 35's with just a 1.5 / 1 lift from GOAT. In order to run 315's or fat 35's you need 2 / 1 lift. I'm NOT a fan of pushing the front geometry to the edge at 2" because you at its limits. I'd prefer 1 to 1.5 at most and like some others, I do not want to level mine at all.

1. Leveling ruins handling dynamics during braking and acceleration. Frontend wanders excessively, during acceleration you lose frontend grip as there's to much weight transfer to the rear.

2. Obviously your nose high with any moderate payload, forget maxing out the bed / towing. Sure, it'll still tow even sticking its nose to the sky, but your stability and line of sight is severely compromised = not good for safety / drivability.

For me, I've SLOOOWWWWLLLYYY been moving over to the skinny 35 camp where I have been in the stock 33's camp since I bought the truck. There are merits to both, but I want a bit more off-road capability and skinny 35's with a mild lift is about as good as it gets for this truck and I think that is the sweet spot that balances handle, braking, negative effects of sprung mass, gearing and static stability factor.

If I ever figure out how to do a decent DIY 7-8mm front fender lift so I can run just a 1" front lift (would still have about 1" of rake as mine has about 2" stock) and skinny 35's I'll do a write up. My KO3's aren't that bad yet so it will be a while, gives me time to hack up my truck in the garage in my spare time, muahahah!!!!
yeah, I’m in the same boat. 35 would give me better clearance, but my priority is not to mess with the way this thing handles too much thus a minimal 1.5 inch front lift, and 1 in the rear.
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