Oil quantity on dipstick low on new 2024 with 80 miles

[DesertSand]

Inbetween the dots or lines does not mean low people. Please refer to your manual or the above post.

Sponsored

 

[josefmd]

Inbetween the dots or lines does not mean low people. Please refer to your manual or the above post.

Never said it's low! I guess it must be a freaking cost saving thing then! Because I never have had a new car delivered with the oil not on the top range of full. I guess the tree huggers are def taking over at Ford.

 

[DesertSand]

Never said it's low! I guess it must be a freaking cost saving thing then! Because I never have had a new car delivered with the oil not on the top range of full. I guess the tree huggers are def taking over at Ford.

Maybe it's filled to a certain point at factory for initial use or break in. I don't know Ford's reasoning. Like I said before dipstick differences are common and that has been that way for decades. I've had 2 dipsticks side by side from 2 low kms foxbody 5.0 Mustangs. They were both different. I used to be so picky and needed it exactly on the line until finding this out many years ago. Now I measure exactly and that's where I leave it. Dipstick to me, is just a guideline IMHO.

 

[Lion77]

Anywhere between the two dots is safe operating region, HOWEVER, it is more ideal to have it filled to the full mark (top of the cross-hatch area) vs. the maximum (top dot). Why? Simple, oil vaporization. I had a 2016 Mustang GT with the 2nd Gen 5.0, track pack, with Power Pack Stage 2 from FP. With hydrogenated DLC coating (TriboTex) and the PP stage 2 on 93, I was making about 470 crank based on the dyno results (using Ford's official estimates for manual trans losses).

On a track day, you will vaporize some oil and running corners hard, you want that pump to stay fully supplied with oil and minimize sloshing, so every pit stop / break it was time to check oil and make sure it was still full. Some cars would lose up to 1/2 quart pretty quickly on a track day in the heat at sustained high RPM's due to vaporization and some blow by.

My 11/24 build came filled right to the top of the hatch mark. That's where I fill all my cars to except my daughters Prius, which only has two dots and no hatch, and the manual states the top dot is "Full" for that vehicle. But our daily's (Mazda 3 and CX-9) have the hatch and dots like Raptor).

So, my advice is, you always want to have some extra capacity as a safety margin in case of oil consumption, so you don't drop below the safe operating area. That's why there is usually a 1qt reserve capacity in almost all passenger car engines.

I'm 38, so just old enough that when I was in high school / college, I had some early 2000's cars that used oil. I had a used Impala 9C1 interceptor I got for $3500 cash, that series II 3800 used about 1 qt every 4k and then an 07 Focus ST after that used about 1qt ever 3k. On the focus, since it was already 104k miles when I bought it, I just ran extended rain intervals with Mobil 1 15k and changed every 10k, so I had to fill it up 3x over the interval.

My 2016 GT I bought used with 3,500 miles on it, so I'm not sure how they broke it in, but probably NOT gently which is why it used 1/2 qt every 5k mostly normal driving. Hydrogenated DLC coatings helped reduced that to about 1/4 qt by enhancing ring seal, which I will do to the raptor once I get past 10k (only at 930 now so aways to go).

 

[Lion77]

I had customized the GT350 intake box by sealing it off and using an aftermarket ducting up front to make a "true cold air intake" from the radiator high pressure zone at the front of the car. Worked awesome.

BTW, my recommendation is also to NOT EVER use K&N or aftermarket filters. Why? Because most of them allow for higher fine dust contamination, which causes accelerated wear of the upper cylinder. Good way to lose compression by 100k. Also testing has shown that while they do flow better, those filters also have 1/3 the dust capacity. So once they clog, they MORE restrictive. So if you go for say 25k miles between changes, for 2/3 of that your making less power than an OE.

The better solution I found on the mustangs was...USE A BIGGER PAPER FILTER. So, you increase dust capacity and reduce flow restriction while maintaining filtration. That's what Ford did with the GT350's. If it's a track only vehicle on-road, I do think K&N's make sense, because it's low dust, low mileage and you can clean it after a few track days, so it may be worth it for those applications, but for daily or trucks? No thanks, I'll stick with OE because I want my rings to maintain seal still at 200k.

Sponsored