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Ranger Raptor Engine Break In Routine

ba15996X50

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My RR is supposed to be arriving at the dealership next week… very excited! I have looked but not found where there’s been a discussion on proper break in routine for the 3.0L in the truck. Is it discussed in the owners manual? Group thoughts on RPMs, getting into boost after what mileage… general do’s and don’ts for engine longevity.
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Takeo

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I had done my first oil change after the first 1000miles. Mainly because I had planned for the ProCal tune to be installed soon after. I also plan to continue to change oil every 5,000 miles. I’m also considering a good catch can system to help the longevity of the turbos. With the tune I would recommend spark plugs at 30,000miles and maybe a step colder. I live in Florida so it’s basically hot year round and If I can find an OEM+ type intercooler that doesn’t effect the louvers I will go with that.
 

AlpineBike

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I had done my first oil change after the first 1000miles. Mainly because I had planned for the ProCal tune to be installed soon after. I also plan to continue to change oil every 5,000 miles. I’m also considering a good catch can system to help the longevity of the turbos. With the tune I would recommend spark plugs at 30,000miles and maybe a step colder. I live in Florida so it’s basically hot year round and If I can find an OEM+ type intercooler that doesn’t effect the louvers I will go with that.
Catch can has zero effect on the longevity of the turbos. Just FYI
 

Takeo

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Catch can has zero effect on the longevity of the turbos. Just FYI
Keeping oil contamination out of the intake due to blow by will keep boost sensors cleaner and help prevent waste gate malfunctions that can lead to over-boost condition. At least that is my understanding.
 

famous47

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I had done my first oil change after the first 1000miles. Mainly because I had planned for the ProCal tune to be installed soon after. I also plan to continue to change oil every 5,000 miles. I’m also considering a good catch can system to help the longevity of the turbos. With the tune I would recommend spark plugs at 30,000miles and maybe a step colder. I live in Florida so it’s basically hot year round and If I can find an OEM+ type intercooler that doesn’t effect the louvers I will go with that.
I think the Cobb intercooler doesn’t require the shutter delete.
 

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SubaruRaptor

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There is no specific routine for break in beyond mix it up and stay away from full throttle. Every person has their own way, or knows a guy who who knows a guy who did it this specific way and they exploded their vehicle or whatever.

Genreally speaking first 1k just don't go crazy and do a lot of different driving. Change the oil and have fun.

Everyone will have a different opinion, that is the only 100% true statement you will see.
 
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Raptor1996

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My routine was the following:

The first and second oil changes in really didn't take the RPM beyond 4k and generally didn't hold RPM for very long. After the 3rd oil change I consider the engine sufficient "broken in".

1st oil change at 250 miles, inspected filter (some debris, nothing horribly concerning) replaced with royal purple full synthetic and recommended oil filter kit

2nd oil change 500 miles, inspected filter (no debris) replaced with motocraft semi synthetic and recommended oil filter kit

3rd oil change 1000 miles, inspected filter (no debris) replaced with motorcraft semi synthetic and recommended oil filter kit

All future oil changes will be at 3000 mile intervals as this is not a daily driver and more of a weekend/fun vehicle for me. (Currently @2786 miles)
 

Dry0atmeal

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What i did for my break in was...1st no heavy throttle... kept it nice and east...2nd varied speed and throttle... While driving i kept the CC off and varied my speed and rpm... 3rd...1000 mile oil change, which a lot of people do... as personal preference i keep the auto/stop and start off and limit excessive idling...Congrats on your new RR and enjoy!
 

DesertBumAZ

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just drive it like you stole it, i had a 2oo ish mile drive home, hit all sorts of speeds, tried to race a Porsche, just have fun with it, dont tow maybe, but change oil at 500 miles ish and then its good to go
 
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ba15996X50

ba15996X50

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What i did for my break in was...1st no heavy throttle... kept it nice and east...2nd varied speed and throttle... While driving i kept the CC off and varied my speed and rpm... 3rd...1000 mile oil change, which a lot of people do... as personal preference i keep the auto/stop and start off and limit excessive idling...Congrats on your new RR and enjoy!
You did this routine the first 1000 mile before "getting on it"? Thanks!
 

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Evilrider

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My RR is supposed to be arriving at the dealership next week… very excited! I have looked but not found where there’s been a discussion on proper break in routine for the 3.0L in the truck. Is it discussed in the owners manual? Group thoughts on RPMs, getting into boost after what mileage… general do’s and don’ts for engine longevity.
Just drive and enjoy it
 

MAV

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Make sure the engine is loaded quite a bit. I said "loaded" not "lugged". Steadily increase throttle in mid-RPM ranges in manual mode so you can run it from about 2500 RPM up to about 5k with medium to heavy acceleration. Let it coast back down and repeat. Do this off and on for the first 500 miles especially, but definitely on the drive home. This creates sufficient cylinder pressure to seat the rings properly.

And nothing bad will happen if you don't do this. In an engine such as this, your piston rings will seat into the cylinder walls either way. As others have said, this is just my opinion of engine break-in.
 

Rabbit9

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I have the first oil change performed at 1K miles, the second at 5000 miles, and every future oil change at 7500 miles. I only use Amsoil signature series full synthetic motor oil (rated at 25K miles / 1 Year) and Amsoil filter, and have the dealer document the type oil and filter used. I keep the revs under 3K for the first 1K miles, and then drive it like I stole it. 😉
I have the oil changes, as well as all other services and repairs performed at the dealership until the warranty expires. I’ve followed this regimen on several vehicles over many years, and have never had a problem with warranty repairs. I’ve had more than one service rep try to buy my vehicle because it was so well taken care of.

By the way, a big “+1” for the COBB intercooler; it adds significant volume, does not noticeably affect turbo lag, and does not interfere with the factory louvers. I’ve noticed that it does heat soak just as quickly as the factory intercooler while idling, but the IAT drops like a rock when you start moving again.
I should also note that I am using the Ford ProCal tuner.
 

SubaruRaptor

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I have the first oil change performed at 1K miles, the second at 5000 miles, and every future oil change at 7500 miles. I only use Amsoil signature series full synthetic motor oil (rated at 25K miles / 1 Year) and Amsoil filter, and have the dealer document the type oil and filter used. I keep the revs under 3K for the first 1K miles, and then drive it like I stole it. 😉
I have the oil changes, as well as all other services and repairs performed at the dealership until the warranty expires. I’ve followed this regimen on several vehicles over many years, and have never had a problem with warranty repairs. I’ve had more than one service rep try to buy my vehicle because it was so well taken care of.

By the way, a big “+1” for the COBB intercooler; it adds significant volume, does not noticeably affect turbo lag, and does not interfere with the factory louvers. I’ve noticed that it does heat soak just as quickly as the factory intercooler while idling, but the IAT drops like a rock when you start moving again.
I should also note that I am using the Ford ProCal tuner.
My guy, no one is offering to buy your vehicle because of your break in routine or oil you use. I have no doubt you maintain a well maintained vehicle that is clean and tastefully modified, but if you honestly think that's why they are offering to buy your vehicles, I have an eagle bacon farm idea I need you to invest in.
 

Rabbit9

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My guy, no one is offering to buy your vehicle because of your break in routine or oil you use. I have no doubt you maintain a well maintained vehicle that is clean and tastefully modified, but if you honestly think that's why they are offering to buy your vehicles, I have an eagle bacon farm idea I need you to invest in.
No, it didn’t have anything to do with the break In routine or the oil that I use.
It had everything to do with detailed maintenance records, and the immaculate condition in which I maintained my vehicles. They saw a vehicle that they could very easily make money on, and they were right. I’m happy that your “eagle bacon” is doing so well, but my investment portfolio is already well diversified, so I believe I will pass on that opportunity.
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