Ranger Raptor Engine Break In Routine

[SubaruRaptor]

No, it didn’t have anything to do with the break In routine or the oil that I use.
It had everything to do with detailed maintenance records, and the immaculate condition in which I maintained my vehicles. They saw a vehicle that they could very easily make money on, and they were right. I’m happy that your “eagle bacon” is doing so well, but my investment portfolio is already well diversified, so I believe I will pass on that opportunity.

Maintenance records dont matter much any more. I just sold a well maintained and cleaned 16 Honda HR-V with every service record and repair record, buying dealer didnt care, just that that carfax was clean. They didnt even want the records as I had them in a folder.

Things have changed, the only people caring about maint records are enthusiast.

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[John E Davies]

Maintenance records dont matter much any more. I just sold a well maintained and cleaned 16 Honda HR-V with every service record and repair record, buying dealer didnt care, just that that carfax was clean. They didnt even want the records as I had them in a folder.

Things have changed, the only people caring about maint records are enthusiast.

This applies to dealers, but if you end up selling to an individual, detailed records and obvious signs of good care will make or break a deal. Especially as the vehicle gets over five years old. But nobody seems to want a stack of old paper. Keep an electronic service record, print that out and keep it handy; that will be very welcome to some buyers. Of course, if the only people that ever touch your truck are Ford shops, never mind, everything “should” be on record. Maybe…. until their system crashes or gets hacked next year or tomorrow….

Just like your personal computer files, keep the service info separated from Mother Ford, up to date, and backed up.

John Davies
Spokane WA

 

[SubaruRaptor]

This applies to dealers, but if you end up selling to an individual, detailed records and obvious signs of good care will make or break a deal. Especially as the vehicle gets over five years old. But nobody seems to want a stack of old paper. Keep an electronic service record, print that out and keep it handy; that will be very welcome to some buyers. Of course, if the only people that ever touch your truck are Ford shops, never mind, everything “should” be on record. Maybe…. until their system crashes or gets hacked next year or tomorrow….

John Davies
Spokane WA

I mean most folks even privately only care about the carfax. I've never lost a sale because I didn't have service records for a vehicle I've sold and the vast majority of people do not keep their records. I agree with what you said, but the focus for the average car buyer is, is the title and carfax clean.

 

[SeaBea]

I kept the RPM low and gradually increased over the first 1,500KMS/1,000Miles. I also made sure to not lug the engine and found using the paddle shifters to ensure the transmission didn't use the highest gear on hills. The paddle shifter is actually the best I've ever had on a vehicle and I find I actually use it! I think doing the first oil/filter change at 1,000 miles is a good compromise. Don't fuss over it too much, new engines are much more refined with less break in issues but don't go full bore - gradually build the rpm's with mileage and you should be rewarded with a bit more oomph and slightly better gas milage! It is a very rewarding vehicle to drive and to me feels more like a rally car!

 

[YukonRanger]

My Ford service manager literally told me drive it like you stole it, change oil between 800-1200kms, Then drive normal and regular service interval after that

He also said dont baby the ecoboosts

told me to give it the beans at least once every time you drive.

Apparently eco boost doesn't like to be driven like a grandpa.

 

[Bushmechanic]

My Ford service manager literally told me drive it like you stole it, change oil between 800-1200kms, Then drive normal and regular service interval after that

He also said dont baby the ecoboosts

told me to give it the beans at least once every time you drive.

Apparently eco boost doesn't like to be driven like a grandpa.

I don't know about this one, but it's certainly a good idea to give some engines an Italian tune-up.

There's no way I could bring myself to do it during break-in, though.

 

[YukonRanger]

I don't know about this one, but it's certainly a good idea to give some engines an Italian tune-up.

There's no way I could bring myself to do it during break-in, though.

I hear ya lol..

It's what he told me though, seriously.

He's actually pretty cool guy. Been deleting diesels for 20 years. He said if I hit something, or break it from impact, he can't cover it.

But he will have my back on warranty 100% with any bolt on upgrades except new turbos.

 

[Lion77]

FYI - Engine Break-in Recommendations with Science Behind the Why | Ranger6G - 2024+ Ranger & Raptor Forum, News, Owners, Community (6th Gen)

Lots of good info there.

 

[boraxman]

Just drove normally, various speeds on freeway, no wrapping it out. FP tune at 1200. Oil changed to full synthetic at 1000 another oil change at 4000 and every 5000 from here on out.

 

[BLIZZARDIBLO]

All engines and drivelines need break in procedure, cylinder bore, pinton rings, valves, etc. .if people start driving has they stole it, material will not polish and adapt part with part and will get micro scratches and defects and later oil consuption, differential issues etc. . Everything needs partial in load break in, since parts on factory bench are not subjected to the weight of the vehicle and loads that exist in different real life scenarios. Etc. . .

 

[Lion77]

Absolutely, the linked thread I provided has some direct information from GM performance powertrain engineers on break-in. The wear-in phase is important, after that you can hammer it, but it's important to take the time for proper break-in. That's the one issue with buying a used car, you have no idea how the original owner broke in the engine.

I bought a used 2016 Mustang GT PP back in 2018 for 27k, only 3,500 miles on it with 100k extended warranty. Great deal right? Wrong. After I bought it the dealer told me they had brand new rear tires on it....because the original owner roasted them in just 3,500 miles. Over time I learned the 5.0L was consuming about 1/2 quart of oil every 5k...not very good for a new engine.

The moron who owned that car before me beat the crap out of it from day 1. Catalyst went out at 17k miles but was covered under warranty. Not surprised, ZDDP in oil poisons the catalyst, with that oil consumption, it would likely be a periodic recurring issue along with pulling timing due to oil vaporization etc.

Do yourself and any possible future owner a favor, break it in properly. It's not hard, it's not voodoo magic, just a bit of patience and diligence. The owners manual backs this all up as it does have a small section on break-in procedure during firsk 1k miles.

 

[ilDiavel]

My Ford service manager literally told me drive it like you stole it, change oil between 800-1200kms, Then drive normal and regular service interval after that

He also said dont baby the ecoboosts

told me to give it the beans at least once every time you drive.

Apparently eco boost doesn't like to be driven like a grandpa.

This is the way. Look at the ASTM oil test specs. All the major wear is really at engine oil temps under 160 degrees. Baby the engine RPM's new or old engine wise till it's over 170 degrees, then drive it like you would normally (or like you stole it in my case). During break-in you want to give it WOT, that's how you seal the rings on the cylinders properly. Baby it, and you will have blow by and oil consumption for life. Lug the engine, and you'll destroy the engine. Ecoboosts have a LSPI problem, especially on the 2.3l, ask the host of RS owners who blew their motors at 2,500 rpm. Otherwise, no long highway drones as people have mentioned, lots of load variability in the drive, find a good twisty fun road to blast. Last is heat cycle the thing. Spirited driving, stop for an hour or two at a nice roadhouse for lunch to let it cool and repeat, just like if you were working on tuning a built motor.

 

[BLIZZARDIBLO]

All engines and drivelines need break in procedure, cylinder bore, pinton rings, valves, etc. .if people start driving has they stole it, material will not polish and adapt part with part and will get micro scratches and defects and later oil consuption, differential issues etc. . Everything needs partial in load break in, since parts on factory bench are not subjected to the weight of the vehicle and loads that exist in different real life scenarios. Etc. . .

 

[Lion77]

WOT is NOT a good idea during engine break-in. You're thermally overloading the rings, and they won't wear in properly as they harden too quickly due to excessive heat cycling during the wear-in phase.

You want a moderate amount of power applied with frequent variation of RPM. Also, the bearing surfaces need time to break in and develop optimal wear patterns on points of contact. As wear-in occurs, forces become more uniformly distributed across the bearing faces, thus supporting greater load.

Due to better machining, that's less of an issue now days than it was decades ago, but the rings are your biggest reason for following the "moderate load" wear-in instructions. I've broken in all my new vehicles like this. The only vehicles I've ever had oil consumption issue with are, you guessed it, the ones that were beat hard during break-in phase or older used vehicles I bought that already had over 100k miles on them (so I had no idea what the previous owner did).

From the thread I linked above, copied directly from the service manual:

2024 Ranger Owner's Manual

"Breaking-In

You need to break in new tires for approximately 300 mi (480 km). During this time, your vehicle may exhibit some unusual driving characteristics.

Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,600 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.

Do not tow during the first 1,000 mi (1,600 km)."

WOT is literally the definition of "driving fast", you're creating the highest thermal loading and mechanical stress conditions on surfaces that haven't established optimal wear patterns yet. Once worn in, you can run it there all day long (after warm-up), but during the break in phase, moderate loads with frequently varying RPM's provide you with optimal break in.

Watch the VIDEO in the thread link. Ford says it in the service manual; the GM powertrain engineer says the SAME thing. Everyone can obviously do what they want, but just because someone preaches it religiously doesn't make it the right thing to do.

 

[ilDiavel]

Excessive heat cycling on rings and hardening too quickly is not really a thing from WOT. Piston rings are hardened during manufacturing, they do not "harden faster" in the engine.... Of course you bring the vehicle up to operating temp first, but you need those pulls to seat the rings. Getting those spirited runs and then letting the engine cool and then restarted/warmed up for another round is also the type of heat cycling the engine needs. Oils are really good now and will protect your engine sufficiently for this if you've let the vehicle properly warm up. Never had a problem with any of my performance built and tuned vehicles going this way. I track a built focus RS and a Cayman S, as well as Ducati 999s, and V2 (Ducs are running 10-13k redline by the way), and have history with several other vehicles. We have guys that take delivery of their new vehicles at the track no issue. Blow-by, oil consumption and gas in the oil always happens on the guys that baby their performance engines then expect it to be a race engine later. I know this subject is just as controversial as the ethanol vs. ethanol free type threads, so of course do what you want. 300 mile break-in of tires is also not a thing, this is just manufacturer CYA speak....

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