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RANGER RAPTOR w/ GFC TOPPER

LDHunter

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I stumbled across this discussion regarding the side rail trim pieces and it was a real eye opener for me. I was about to mount a cross bed aluminum tool box that I would easily have at least a hundred pounds of tools etc. plus the weight of the box (Maybe 75 pounds) on my RR and now am thinking I'll wait until there is a good solution for the collapsing side rail trim pieces when you put any significant weight on them.

https://forum.gofastcampers.com/t/2024-ranger-raptor-installation-gfc-question/28921
 
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too.many.tacos

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I stumbled across this discussion regarding the side rail trim pieces and it was a real eye opener for me. I was about to mount a cross bed aluminum tool box that I would easily have at least a hundred pounds of tools etc. plus the weight of the box (Maybe 75 pounds) on my RR and now am thinking I'll wait until there is a good solution for the collapsing side rail trim pieces when you put any significant weight on them.

https://forum.gofastcampers.com/t/2024-ranger-raptor-installation-gfc-question/28921
It squishes them a little bit but not a big deal. This isn’t a mall crawler and a little wavy plastic really doesn’t get seen. It doesn’t leak and that’s all that matters.

Added the bed supports in prep for this already.
 

John E Davies

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Did the install shop hook up the third brake light? If so, how and what was the cost?

I had LOTS of trouble with my hatch lower seal binding badly (it hangs up in the grooves of the tailgate upper trim piece) it was bad enough to file a warranty claim, they ended up sending me a different seal which works a little better. You should NOT have to pop open the tailgate first. This is an entrapment concern, if you are inside with the hatch closed and cannot get it to open. Basically it is very bad engineering, it should have a formed extension that hangs out over the back of the gate, with a seal that touches the BACK of the gate, not the top. This is how other brands do it.

I used to post threads at the GFC Forums, but I quit because of lack of member participation, it is a ghost town for technical information.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
 
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too.many.tacos

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Did the install shop hook up the third brake light? If so, how and what was the cost?

I had lots of trouble with my hatch lower seal binding badly (it hangs up in the grooves of the tailgate upper trim piece) it was bad enough to file a warranty claim, they ended up sending me a different seal which works a little better. You should NOT have to pop open the tailgate first. This is an entrapment concern, if you are inside with the hatch closed and cannot get it to open.

I used to post threads at the GFC Forums, but I quit because of lack of member participation, it is a ghost town for technical information.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
No, they told me they don’t do that. He said there is some sort of issues with hooking directly to the wiring that causes issues.

Yes on the hatch. I took some ceramic detailed and cleaned the seal and made it slick. Opens fine without the tailgate open.

I agree on their forum. When you ask technical questions it turns into crickets. Hasn’t been a great wealth of knowledge there. Been tagging them in some posts and stories on IG too but I don’t use the word “stoked” or “shreddy” so they don’t respond. 😂
 

John E Davies

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too.many.tacos

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Making the hatch seal slick works only as long as it is clean. Add a bunch of road spray or dust and it will bind again.

This worked fine for the third brake light. No issues at all, no wierd trailer disconnected messages.
https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/thre...-light-i-have-a-12-volt-power-question.15723/

Have you sealed the bed yet?

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
No, I haven’t. Didn’t plan on it. That is a ton of work just to get your brake light to work.

IMO this should be included in the installation of the topper. Any of the multiple Leer units I have purchase never left the dealer without a brake light functioning.

Zero of that was communicated by GFC.
 

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Many states require all brake lights to be functional and visible - the factory one hidden by your new topper doesn’t count….. Especially if you are carrying a load in back like bicycles that partially covers your two main lights. That is the main reason I wired mine. Plus it looks way better if it functions.

I agree that any topper should have this wiring done by the installer, it is frustrating.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
 

Arsenall11

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We installed this on my son-in-law laws AEV Bison, pretty easy to connect it to the break lights through the fender.
 

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We installed this on my son-in-law laws AEV Bison, pretty easy to connect it to the break lights through the fender.
Normally yes. Fords freak out if you do that.
 

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Interesting, I tied my chase rack third light into my cab third light no issues.
 
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Arsenall11

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I would suggest going to the third break light then.
 

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I tapped mine to the driver side brake light using only the harness provided in the GFC. was it a little annoying to figure out what wires were what on the brake light harness, yes but never had an issue in over a year of usage. Truck doesnt know it's there. just have to take a multimeter and a friend to find ground and positive signal for brake light when the brake is depressed. went thru one of those circular holes on the side of the bed with a small wire grommet.
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