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The Lion's Road & Rally Build - A Different Take on the RR

Lion77

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Introduction

Most people on the forum seem to gravitate towards bigger tires and lifts to tackle rougher terrain. I have zero issues with that. But big tires have a LOT of trade-offs for little gain even in specific instances, sometimes that extra 1" of clearance matters, other times it's useless (obstacle doesn't require more clearance or well over another 1" anyway). In MOST off-roading uses on trails, you can pick a better line to compensate for a lack of ground clearance, you can stack rocks, dirt etc. Some might consider that cheating, but I don't, whatever you need to get past the obstacle is fair game, with that being said, that's not the core focus of this build.

A 35x11.5" tire only nets you 1" of actual gain in minimum running clearance of the rear axle, but costs a lot in terms of acceleration, braking and turn-in while also reducing fuel economy and increasing stress on the steering (tie rods and rack) and drive train (diffs, axles, transition shock loads). Maybe someday I'll go over to the dark side with 35x11.5's if I shift the core focus of the truck, but this build right now is focused in a different direction than most. Road and Rally style driving, with practicality for road tripping on-road and utility.

My Uses for 24' RR
- High speed off-road rally-style on dirt roads, gravel roads, sand dunes and farm fields, including jumping the truck!
- Moderate trails level 1-5 which are scenic and relaxing, with occasional intermediate obstacles.
- Back country roads with big potholes and very uneven surfaces, but very scenic and enjoyable to tour, including Hocking Hills, OH.
- Long touring trips for extended stints on the highway to out of state destinations with my wife (i.e., NASCAR at Watkins Glen, visiting family out of state, vacations, date weekends etc.)
- To work just because I like driving it, mostly back country highways / roads.
- Home Depot runs for house projects (4x8 plywood, sheet rock, 2x4's etc.).
- Periodic towing (i.e., car dolly with compact cars, utility trailers for wood, house projects and hauling ATVs).
- Camping (throw it all in the truck bed!)
- Backup vehicle just in case one of my two daily drivers is in service (wife drives a CX-50, I drive a 23' Mazda 3), nice to have a 3rd vehicle just in case the service is delayed on the daily's.
- Bad weather, like deep snow. Throw it in 4A and just GO!
- Keeping my wife happy because she also likes to drive it :cool:

Goals
1. Improve upon off-road capability over stock without reducing overall high-speed performance or significantly increasing weight (< +50 lbs net).
2. Enhance on-road and off-road handling at high speeds (i.e., turn-in, braking, stability, predictability) over stock.
3. Enhance acceleration over stock.
4. Maintain or improve upon factory fuel economy for highway use and long trips.
5. Maintain or improve upon factory reliability / durability.
6. Improve upon factory utility (i.e., towing, payload and cargo management) without significant additional weight (< +100 lbs net).

Implemented Modifications
1. Ford Performance Pro Cal
2. Method 705 17x8.5 ET+35 Bead Grip Wheels in Titanium Grey (including spare, so 5x total)
3. Worksport AL4 tonneau cover.
4. Line-x custom lining under the rocker panels for rock chip / corrosion protection.
5. Value Guard cavity wax inside weep holes for rockers / fenders to prevent internal corrosion.
6. Value Guard VG-104 coating behind pinch welds for additional corrosion protection (live in a state that sees lots of road salt in winter).
7. Torque Detail ceramic 2yr DIY coating to prevent clear coat oxidation over time and reduce scratches / corrosion on rock chips (wax over the rock chips to seal them off, worked well on other vehicles where they never rusted). I can do this myself in a few hours, once every 2 years for $100, not bad!
8. TirboTEX DLC of entire powertrain (engine, transmission, front and rear diffs, transfer case).

Planned Modifications
1. Pirelli XTM AT 285/70R17 - comparable forward bite and durability off and on-road to KO3's, better turn-in response and more predictable brake away characteristics both on and off-road, 3lbs lighter per tire than KO3's.
2. GOAT 20 Degree Angled Rock Sliders - enhances side clearance, the biggest grip most have with a stock RR for trails. Overall, it's pretty decent other than the side steps.
3. US Cargo Control 48" black anodized L-track x 4 rails in bed, very light weight option to enhance bed versatility. Only 2.5lbs per rail! Endless cargo management configurations.
4. Ditch Lights (undecided on what brand)
5. Wagner Intercooler (after 60k powertrain warranty is expired)

Modifications / Goal Relationships - As is Now (will periodically be updated as mods are added)

Goal #1

- Method 705 17x8.5 ET+35 Bead grip Wheels: 25.2 lbs per wheel vs. 36lbs from factory bead-locks. Bead grip technology provides 95% of the low-pressure bead reliability of a true bead lock but is maintenance free, DOT legal and more reliable on road. Slight increase in track-width from higher wheel off-set lowers CG further without reducing ground clearance or significantly altering scrub radius (which affects steering kick on rough terrain). Reduces rotating mass by 43lbs, reduces total mass (includes spare tire) by 54 lbs allowing the weight to be re-allocated to more productive uses (i.e., rock sliders, cargo management).

Goal #2
Method 705 17x8.5 ET+35 Bead grip Wheels: Reduced mass improves both braking and turn-in responsiveness. Increased track width lowers effective CG or if paired with larger tires and a lift, compensates for the added ride height to keep as close to factory CG as possible for a near net zero CG change.

Goal #3
- Ford Performance Pro Cal: the additional 50HP / 106 lb-ft of torque reduces 1/4-mile time by approximately 5/10ths. Refined 10R60 shift logic enables better usage of available power.
- Method 705 17x8.5 ET+35 Bead grip Wheels: Reduced mass improves acceleration by reducing parasitic losses (allows more of the rated power to be utilized at the wheels).
- TirboTEX DLC: achieving super lubricity reduces friction losses, resulting in more power to the wheels (~1-3% on new vehicles).

Goal #4
- Ford Performance Pro Cal: no change in fuel economy over stock under normal driving conditions.
- Worksport AL4 Tonneau Cover: reduces drag losses from tail gate for highway driving. I managed almost 21 MPG a few times driving 77 MPH on I-80 (no headwind, in summer heat). Before the cover, I could not manage more than about the rated 18~19 MPG under similar conditions.
- TirboTEX DLC: achieving super lubricity reduces friction losses, resulting in slight increase in fuel economy under light load conditions (typically flat or down-hill grades while cruising).

Goal #5
- Ford Performance Pro Cal: installed by dealer with paperwork and registration for warranty. Ford Performance developed the factor calibration and the Pro Cal. They maintain factory reliability through extensive testing including wind tunnels with hot dry air for knock resistance, full data pack testing in real-world conditions, account for factory production tolerances, maintain all thermal safeties for valves (prevent tuliping from overheating on exhaust side) and catalyst failures, optimize transmission torque lock slip energies and band temps, then perform 60k mile wear test with no measurable differences in wear rates from OE.
- TirboTEX DLC: oil lubrication failures are the most significant cause of major vehicle failures. In Situ DLC coatings reduce wear rates and enhance oil film strength on bearing surfaces by ~30%. Wear is primarily occurring on the DLC coating which can be re-applied periodically In Situ instead of wearing the bearing surfaces, which require part replacement once worn beyond service life. The better oil adhesion enhances serve condition reliability, especially as oils break down and thin out from heat. Increases survivability of components in dry-running conditions, providing more time to cease operation before permanent damage (i.e., an oil pump failure).

Goal #6
- Worksport AL4 Tonneau Cover: offers bed coverage against elements for typical on-road use cases where you might throw duffle bags or hard suit cases in the bed for family trips. Can easily be removed for maximum bed usage, tri-fold allows most large objects to be carried in bed without removal (except my ATV, where I need the max bed length).

Net Weight Gain or Loss from Total of Modifications (both Existing and Planned)
- Swap OE Bead locks for Method 705s = -54lbs total mass (including spare)
- Swap Pirelli XTM AT 285/70R17 = -15lbs total mass (including spare)
- Add Work Sport AL4 Tri-fold Tonneau = +35 lbs total mass
- Add L-Track ~= +10lbs with fasteners
- Swap Factory Side Steps for GOAT Rock Sliders ~= +40lbs total.
- Swap Factor IC for Wagner ~= +15lbs total.
- Ditch Lights / Brackets ~= +10lbs

Net Weight Gain ~= +41 lbs. A

Also consider that the additional weight is sprung mass, not un-sprung mass. So, I am trading rotating mass (which is entirely parasitic) for functional weight in locations that have very little deficit on acceleration, braking and handling, but address specific weaknesses / limitations of the factory setup. This is low hanging fruit. For example, the biggest weakness of the stock RR on trails is the side steps, nearly everyone who pushes the truck to its limits on the trails says "get rock sliders!".

Most of the time, if you willing to tactfully choose your line instead of just "going at it", the stock clearance is adequate aside from the stock side steps. So, sliders alone will significantly enhance the off-road capabilities without taking away from the high-performance nature as just one example. I may consider larger tires and a mild lift down the road if my uses change, but so far Ive preferred

The tonneau cover is another example, slight increase in weight is more than off-set by the reduction in drag losses from covering the bed / trail gate at higher speeds (fuel economy, drag strip passes, high speed straights off-roading in the dunes or desert etc.) and it adds functional protection of the bed contents. This hopefully illustrates the "performance car mindset" I have taken with my build with very strategic carefully thought-out changes.
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Lion77

Lion77

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BTW, I plan to slowly update this thread as things get added from that list. Bit by bit, over time. Most people rush in and change a bunch of variables all at once, but for me, due to limited funds and a desire to not waste money on changes that I end up hating or that have more cons than pros (i.e., net negative benefit), I'm taking a more methodical approach. I also don't want this hobby to become an idol that takes away from my faith, my family and more important matters, so I'm taking a patient approach to changes.
 
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Lion77

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Where it started on day 1 at the dealership:

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Where it's at now:

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Lion77

Lion77

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Got the dune flag and towhook mount installed before my trip to Silver Lake MI. Bought a two piece 1/2 whip and flag locally that worked really well.
 

STEVE_K

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How did you do in the dunes? What air pressure did you run your tires at? And one last question, sorry! What drive mode did you use?

The drive mode is where I am really curious, since all my previous 4x4's only had 3 sections, 2WD, 4H, and 4L!
 

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Lion77

Lion77

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Did just fine, honestly the biggest thing with any production vehcile or even SxS is to watch the whoops at the base of the dune.

People get overzealous trying to build up speed before they even get onto the hill and end up nosing out hard on a whoop.

I just uses Off-Road mode for the dunes today, but Baja works well too and if I do the steeper peaks more to the right side id use Baja.

I did the hardest Peaks in the SxS today that we rented, they made it up but barely (engines bogged down towards the top on the SxS since they were just standard 4 seaters and didnt have the turbo engines).

Some people even use Sport Mode and put it in 4H, but just be sure to use 4H and disable traction control by holding the button for 10~15sec. whatever mode you like best.

I'd say Off Road or Baja are most appropriate personally. Off Road allows a bit more delicate throttle modulation so you gotta put your foot down on the big hills to maintain speed, but the twin turbo V6 really shines on hill climbs, not lacking for power or torque at all compared to the jeeps / tacos (outside the rare Hemi 392 Wrangler that costs 100k).

The other big thing to watch is your speed as you crest the hill, its steep drop offs on the other side, so you want to carry about 15~20 mph as you round the top. Too little and youll get high centered, too much and youll launch off the other side and risk roll over like all the Dodge Ram TRX drivers on youtube.

On the first hill you can stop at the top if your careful without getting high centered, but it depends on the spot, and weather you have tires and lift, which gives you more options to stop due to increased clearance. Im on stock suspension and tires, it was raining so I decided to just pop over and keep going. I did about 25 - 27 mph over the whoops where most production trucks were doing 15-20 due to damping limits, the oil filler Fox 2.5s did great! A bit stiff at times, but they can also take harder hits than gas struts.

Cautions:
1. Whoops at the base of the hill and throughout the park.
2. How fast you crest test hill.

Modes:
Off Road or Baja, traction control completely turned off so you can claw your way up the upper half of the hill without begging due to nannies. Off Road is fine for the left side (milder incline), Baja is more appropriate for middle / right side.

Did 15 psi tire pressure but with bead grips id be confident with 12 and may go down to 12 tomorrow.
 
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Lion77

Lion77

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Did Baja mode all day today and liked it better than Off Road for dunes, but I preferred the rear axle locked for powering up test hill as I felt it gave me more traction. Front I left unlocked for steering. Don't forget to turn advanced track off too! Hold the traction control button until the display indicates its off.

Also lowered tire pressure to 12 psi rear and 14 psi front (cold pressure). Out on the dunes from the hot sand they were about 16 psi F and 14 psi R hot.

There were only two other RRs there that I saw and a ton of S x S, sand rails, ATVs, dirt bikes and two actual monster trucks and an assortment of jeeps and broncos, maybe one or two Tacos. Quite a few F-150s and 1500 series Chevy / GMC. Only saw one Doge and it was a TRX. Saw an F-150 get high centerd at the top of a dune and two GMC 1500s also get high centered, none of them were lifted, some of them had KO2s in factory size but those SCREW cabs + 8ft bed so their limited breakover angles worked agaisnt them.

On the steeper portion of the hills furthest to the right yesterday we saw several jeeps, a taco and Tundra all fail multiple times to get up the steeper dunes, just not enough HP and they all had 35 or 37s, so the low power to weight ratio and large tires actually worked against them.

I went from starting out on the easy side of test hill and progressively worked my way over all the way to the hardest side with the steepest peaks and sharpest drops that we did in the s x s we rented yesterday, did not have any issues going right up it on stock KO3s / Method 705s and never once got stuck. Also my KO3s arent new, I got 27k worth of treadwear on them.

We did test hill at least 30 to 35 times over two 2.5hr stints in the park (about 5 total) with full passenger load and AC on. We did it one last time to exit the park after watching the sunset on sunset hill.

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Oil temp typically got around 221F to 230F by the third hill and never went above 233F. Trans temp never once got above 223F and was typically around 215F to 219F, again in Baja mode the entire time today. Ambient was 85F with full sun, morning was cooler with overcast. Also note my truck is Pro Cal tuned, stock IC and I employ TriboTEX In Situ DLC films, on a fresh oil change I did right before we left for the 5.5hr drive to the camp ground a few days ago. Used no oil.

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My method for conquering the highest and steepest parts of Test Hill at Silver Lake:

1. Pick your line and don't deviate.

2. Hold about 17-20 mph over whoops and as soon as you get past the whoops at the base of the hill put the pedal to the floor and hold until your about 10 to 15 feet from the top and let off. Momentum will pop you right over the top of the steepest hill crests. Also if you want to stop on top of the first hill you can apply brake as you fully crest.

Stock or Pro Cal tuned, the same tequnique should work well as the RR has the power and torque to claw its way up very well.

Thats why the Tacos and Jeeps struggled so much, they cant get a run due to the whoops (s x s can bomb through the woops with their 16 to 20 in travel, but not most production vehicles). So the Jeeps / Tacos typically struggle becuase they dont have the power to really claw their way up at WOT.

RR has it in spades and its not that hard, a lot of fun to boot! Jist make sure not to keep your foot in it too long as you near the crest so you dont pull a TRX.

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