Under Cover Pivot toolbox install

[CoastieN70]

I bought the REAL Truck version of this tool box but they're all the same, made in the same factory, just branded to whomever sell them retail.

Let's get this important info first:
The Ranger Factory tie down bolts are installed from the Factory with RED Loctite!

Red Loctite is as PERMINATE as you can get without welding! Nowhere is this mentioned in anyone's (Ford or Real Truck) directions! The only way to remove a fastener set with Red Loctite is with heat.

That being said: I stripped the heads off all 4 bolts in my first attempt to remove them, although they did budge and then locked solid. Before I attempted my second attempt, I ordered a set of bolts through the Ford Pass App on my phone. When they arrived is when I saw the factory applied Red Loctite.
It took a propane torch 2 bottles of propane along with a good pair of Vice Grips to remove the damn bolts. Basically 4 hours of labor.

After you remove the bolts, install is a breeze, BUT not for this intrepid warrior!

Everything went together perfectly or so I thought until it came time to swing the box from its closed and locked position.
NADA, won't budge! Locked tighter the preverbal "male member's" hat band. Try as I might I couldn't get the damn thing to unlatch!
I even resorted to getting my "Faithful Assistant" (Wife) to yank on the yellow handle while i tried to muscle the damn box loose! I finally removed the two pivot bracket bolts and the pivot bracket, only then was I able to get the box unlatched.
I will skip telling y'all all the failed attempts I tried and skip to the solution...
I removed the two nuts that held the box latch in place, pivoted the box on the latch and discovered my latch set 1/4 inch too far to the rear of the bed to unlatch (I tried this several times to confirm.) My first impulse was to bend the latch bracket but quickly decided that it could destroy the latch. The solution was to shorten the latch rod 1/16 inch. VOLIOA! Now everything works as advertised!

So, to recap: This 30-to-45-minute project took 6 actual manhours over the course of a week, all because no one mentioned the Tiedown Bolts were installed with Red Loctite!

Sponsored

 

[RSETZER]

I always multiply Youtube times by a factor of at least 3.

 

[Atom!]

I bought the Ford version for $29 after points (no directions included), and I had exactly the same problems with the red loctite to the point where I broke off one of the bolt heads (mines installed with only three bolts now). I ended up replacing the mangled Ford bolts with stainless steel hex head bolts from Menards.

I didn’t have any problems with the swing latch other than the mechanism sticks when it’s cold and I usually have to give it a nudge for it to swing.

Now that it’s installed, I like it quite a bit with one exception. I’ve got rust spots in the bed directly under the box from water dripping off of the box and hardware. I’d be concerned if it wasn’t on top of the spray in bed liner.

 

[nullderef]

I had one snap on me as well. Thankfully it was right behind a taillight.

 

[CoastieN70]

I had one snap on me as well. Thankfully it was right behind a taillight.

Did it break flush with the hole?

 

[nullderef]

Yes

Did it break flush with the hole?

It was recessed a little, but close enough. The crack happened a little less than half way down.

 

[CoastieN70]

Yes


It was recessed a little, but close enough. The crack happened a little less than half way down.

WOW! Those are pretty robust bolts; I'm surprised it broke that way. Red Loctite is some nasty stuff and I'm surprised that Ford decided to use it on a bolt that stood a good chance of being remove. But if there's one thing I have learned over the years, Mechanics don't spec things like this, Engineers with no mechanical experience do.

 

[el_sabio]

Same problem. I sheared one and luckily it was accessible through taillight. By the time it was out the threads were destroyed. I now have a bolt and nut behind taillight passenger side.

I had a topper installed Friday and it mounts to the bed via brackets at those same down points. The fitment center budgeted 2 hrs. Little did they know it would take two hours JUST to get those bolts out… heating them, turning carefully… more heat… etc. They broke another but luckily I had extras.

And I had the same issue with rust in the bed from the OEM pivot box. I got the side toolbox for the topper so I can access from passenger side gull wing door, and I’ll install MOLLE panels on the inside of the bed. I actually like NOT having the pivot box. It takes away use of the cleats.

 

[nullderef]

I had a topper installed Friday and it mounts to the bed via brackets at those same down points. The fitment center budgeted 2 hrs. Little did they know it would take two hours JUST to get those bolts out… heating them, turning carefully… more heat… etc. They broke another but luckily I had extras.

That is why I removed mine first. If a mess was going to be made, I was going to cause (and deal with) it. Not by a shop that was spraying the bed liner.

All told: Nine came out without any form of heat, just a TP40 and a breaker bar. Two were stripped and required heat to finish the job. The one that broke... I had extracted.

Sponsored