Using Oil Extractor/ MityVac on Ranger Raptor

[LettiM3]

I just hit 1k miles and want to do my first oil change. I was going to use my mityvac oil extractor on this first oil change and then remove the drain plug to see how well it did to help me decide if I want to use the extractor ongoing. I have two questions:

1. Has or is anyone using an oil extractor for oil changes on their Ranger Raptor?
2. If so, where are you entering the extraction tube? The dipstick or where you fill your oil from?

Thanks,
Jason

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[jeffers]

I don't like this concept. All the sludgy type stuff is going to be left down in the bottom of the oil pan.

 

[LettiM3]

I don't like this concept. All the sludgy type stuff is going to be left down in the bottom of the oil pan.

Extractors work better on some cars than others. I’ve used one for years on other vehicles with high revving engines (where things can go south) without problems or negative blackstone test results. Sludge can be less common on newer vehicles especially if you make sure to keep up regular oil changes and use quality oil but it can still happen. But again I think it depends on the specific vehicle for the effectiveness of an extractor. Was hoping for someone to chime in with direct experience using one on the ranger raptor.

 

[jeffers]

Cool thing about a truck is you don't even have to lift it to do an oil change.

 

[ADVNTURR]

Always use the dipstick when using an extractor since it gives you a (mostly) direct line of access to the sump. I can't speak to the 3.0 in the Raptor, but I just did my 2.7 with my trusty Pela extractor and it worked great. It took me a couple of tries to find the right depth for the tube (I somehow pushed it too far in originally) but it pulled dang near every bit of 6L out of my motor. I was going to pull the drain plug afterwards but after seen how much it pulled I ended up not bothering.

The only question I would have on the 3.0 in the Raptor is if they have any baffles in the pan that may make it hard to get all the oil out.

Don't forget to extract the extra bit of oil left in the cartridge filter cavity and adding a bit of fresh oil before installing the new filter.

 

[RANGER/HOBB]

Dipstick. You have to be able to pull a vacuum. Attempting to do so from the oil fill, won’t produce the necessary vacuum pressures required in pulling oil from the crankcase.

 

[LettiM3]

Dipstick. You have to be able to pull a vacuum. Attempting to do so from the oil fill won’t produce the necessary vacuum pressures if any.

Thanks. Sometimes the dipstick location does not reach as low as the bottom of the pan is but only reaches as high as is needed to make the measurement for where the oil fill to margin is. Do you know if the vacuum tube can reach the bottom at this location? Have you done an oil extraction in this truck?

 

[RANGER/HOBB]

Depends primarily upon the length of extraction tube supplied with the MityVac.

No sorry, I haven’t done it on this truck. Best way to manually determine the length; is to buy enough clear of equal diameter tubing, to run down the dipstick, to check the actual length required.

Make sure you have a way of securing and holding it for measuring, so it doesn’t disappear down the dipstick.

 

[Hummeroid]

I had asked the same question a while ago, and made a thread: https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/threads/rr-oil-evacuation-top-side-oil-change.13230/

 

[stemplar]

I don't like this concept. All the sludgy type stuff is going to be left down in the bottom of the oil pan.

I hear this a lot, mostly from people who haven't used a vacuum extractor and just pass on anecdotal assertions. If done correctly, meaning the engine was run to full operating temperature and the oil extracted right after shutting the engine off, and with a hose of appropriate length to reach the bottom of the pan, then the vacuum extraction will work at least as well as the drain plug will. If you have "sludgy type stuff" accumulated in the bottom of the pan while the engine has been running long enough to be at full temp, then you have larger problems and your oil pump is about to quit or is unable to pump oil effectively. As with the drain plug, the vehicle needs to be level and not tilted away from the extraction point.

My only negative about using a vacuum extractor is that I'm a firm believer in oil analysis (including tbn!) and I'm not a fan of getting a sample out of the miteyvac or whatever because it'll be contaminated with whatever was left in from last use, or whatever was used to try and clean the cylinder, or most likely, both.

 

[Johnny35]

Dipstick. You have to be able to pull a vacuum. Attempting to do so from the oil fill, won’t produce the necessary vacuum pressures required in pulling oil from the crankcase.

Johnny 35 I use this from Amazon works great just make sure the oli is warm no priming required. https://a.co/d/7vQ8rIu

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