New Product - Ford Ranger & Ranger Raptor 10" Tall Bed Rack RAIL System (American Adventure Lab)

[AdventureLab]

I guess you’re gonna find out… did you get amber or white?

Both.

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[clarke]

@AdventureLab

I got my rails today, but I think I've run into an issue. The holes on the bottom bracket don't line up with the available holes on the bottom of the vertical risers. Am I only supposed to use one set of holes? I am assuming not.

 

[AdventureLab]

@AdventureLab

I got my rails today, but I think I've run into an issue. The holes on the bottom bracket don't line up with the available holes on the bottom of the vertical risers. Am I only supposed to use one set of holes? I am assuming not.

I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Can you give me a different angle?

 

[AdventureLab]

Looks like this is one of the risers, upside down.

Here is how they should attach.

 

[mikejr89]

I’m assuming the middle cross bar is necessary to run the molle panels?

 

[LALARange]

@AdventureLab If we have the bed rail utility nut plate you sell (RR-1053), would we just use the m8x50mm bolts from above (with the spacers in the stake pocket) to secure the rail? If yes, (a) please confirm no washer required; and (b) do you have any recommended security bolts for those who park on the street?

@jordantii Do you mind sharing with pics the whole electrical setup you complete when you do the Deutsch connector and notched plates for lights? I've been reading and re-reading this thread on this, but still not quite understanding how everything is fitting together and particularly where the Deutsch connector would be when the rail is attached and the stake pocket is filled with the stack.

Thanks!

J

 

[jordantii]

@AdventureLab If we have the bed rail utility nut plate you sell (RR-1053), would we just use the m8x50mm bolts from above (with the spacers in the stake pocket) to secure the rail? If yes, (a) please confirm no washer required; and (b) do you have any recommended security bolts for those who park on the street?

@jordantii Do you mind sharing with pics the whole electrical setup you complete when you do the Deutsch connector and notched plates for lights? I've been reading and re-reading this thread on this, but still not quite understanding how everything is fitting together and particularly where the Deutsch connector would be when the rail is attached and the stake pocket is filled with the stack.

Thanks!

J

I sure will. After looking at the image above I will have to see if I need to modify the lower part of the rail that mounts to the stack. I see that there is a folded section of aluminum that may need to be notched as well if I don’t want to de-pin the connector when the rack is removed.

I’ll also have to ask @American Adventure LAb if this notch will effect the strength of the lower part of the rail.

This is all in an effort to maintain tonneau covers that do not infringe on the stake pockets. If you don’t intend on running a cover then notching would not be necessary.

 

[AdventureLab]

I’m assuming the middle cross bar is necessary to run the molle panels?

To run those MOLLE panels, yes, but I also have a full length one drawn up that would allow just 2 RAILs. If that's something you're interested in, let me know and I'll post it up here. I don't think we have released it yet.

 

[AdventureLab]

@AdventureLab If we have the bed rail utility nut plate you sell (RR-1053), would we just use the m8x50mm bolts from above (with the spacers in the stake pocket) to secure the rail? If yes, (a) please confirm no washer required; and (b) do you have any recommended security bolts for those who park on the street?

That's correct. The washers aren't really required, as we run a very tight tolerance on our fastener holes (0.5mm), but they they will keep the head of the bolt from scratching the powder a little.

What are you looking to secure with security fasteners? We typically use metric allen head bolts. That's already a pretty uncommon tool to have in your pocket.

 

[AdventureLab]

I’ll also have to ask @American Adventure LAb if this notch will effect the strength of the lower part of the rail.

There may be enough room on that bottom bracket (that secures the rack to the spacer stack) to put a hole in it to allow the deutsch to pass through. I can measure one Tuesday and check it in CAD.

 

[jordantii]

There may be enough room on that bottom bracket (that secures the rack to the spacer stack) to put a hole in it to allow the deutsch to pass through. I can measure one Tuesday and check it in CAD.

Cool man. I was thinking of just a notch that leaves the top portion of the inside fold intact. Just enough for the wire to sneak through.

 

[mikejr89]

To run those MOLLE panels, yes, but I also have a full length one drawn up that would allow just 2 RAILs. If that's something you're interested in, let me know and I'll post it up here. I don't think we have released it yet.

That would be great as I want to use the trays you guys offer as well, unless I’m mistaken the the 3 rails would not allow me to do that.

side note: what battery are you using in your build attached to the molle panel in the tub, I’m basically trying to do something similar.

 

[LALARange]

I sure will. After looking at the image above I will have to see if I need to modify the lower part of the rail that mounts to the stack. I see that there is a folded section of aluminum that may need to be notched as well if I don’t want to de-pin the connector when the rack is removed.

I’ll also have to ask @American Adventure LAb if this notch will effect the strength of the lower part of the rail.

This is all in an effort to maintain tonneau covers that do not infringe on the stake pockets. If you don’t intend on running a cover then notching would not be necessary.

I currently have the Revolver x4s, so definitely want to figure out a good way to run power to the rails for lights. This sounds the most promising so I'm interested in your ideas.

 

[jordantii]

I currently have the Revolver x4s, so definitely want to figure out a good way to run power to the rails for lights. This sounds the most promising so I'm interested in your ideas.

I'm gonna make it work. There is no other option. The absolute worst case scenario is that the Deutsch connector would have to be de-pinned which is not terrible for long term removal but not ideal for quick on and off's. Once I get the rack I'll know more about how to make this work.

Hopefully if @American Adventure LAb agrees with the idea, they coiuld incorporate it into future revisions of the product.

 

[Havasu RR]

I did the nacho nanos some time ago and here are some pictures

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