2.5 RC level kit install

[swank]

Those of you that installed your own 2.5 level kit from Rough Country I have a few questions. How difficult was the installation? Are there any videos or instructions on changing the height of the headlights? How is the ride after? And will 33s fit without any trimming or upper control arm mods? I just ordered the kit and can’t beat that price. I plan on doing an installation on my own and taking it to ford for alignment.

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[Jason B]

Just saying, you can't beat that price because they are molded plastic. I haven't heard of anybody having problems with them.

Glad to see they now have forged UCAs and a reasonable price.

 

[gonzo117]

Here's a thread on RC leveling. https://www.ranger6g.com/forum/thre...kit-fitment-for-2024-ranger.18169/post-271914

 

[superj]

that composite plastic they use is very strong. i have used many many rough country composite spacers on my families jeeps and on other people's jeeps i have put lifts on for. you won;t have problems with them.

to adjust your headlights, pop the hood and look at the housing from the top. you will see a tiny diagram with a u and a d with arrows between them. that is telling you to twist the little silver screw with a phillips head screw driver either of those directions to go up or down. the silver screw is horizontal so when you look down, its right beneath the edge of the fender and looks like a sideways gear that you can only see a few teeth of. put your screw driver tip in the slot with the teeth and turn to go up or down

its very very easy to install a spacer on the ranger strut assembly. easier than almost anything i have ever done a spacer lift on. drinking lots of water in 100+ heat, i did mine in less than an hour on each side. and thats with lots of water breaks and feeling like i was going to dehydrate and die. the sway bar end links come out easily, the tie rod end link slides off easy, and the upper ball joint comes out with ease from the knuckle so you can lean the knuckle out of hte way and then just pop the strut assembly off once you remove the upper 3 and lower 2 nuts. when you reinstall the assembly with the spacer on top, you are supposed to tap out the lower bolts from the strut and seat the strut in place and then reinstall the lower bolts and nuts.

once you remove the upper and lower nuts, just push on the lower control arm with your foot and it will drop enough to pull the strut out of the truck. and when you put the spacer on, if the strut doesn't align, you can grab the bottom and twist it by hand once the top bolts are in place on the truck. mine were off by about 30 degrees so i just grabbed them and twisted them to align them with the holes.

its very easy though

 

[swank]

that composite plastic they use is very strong. i have used many many rough country composite spacers on my families jeeps and on other people's jeeps i have put lifts on for. you won;t have problems with them.

to adjust your headlights, pop the hood and look at the housing from the top. you will see a tiny diagram with a u and a d with arrows between them. that is telling you to twist the little silver screw with a phillips head screw driver either of those directions to go up or down. the silver screw is horizontal so when you look down, its right beneath the edge of the fender and looks like a sideways gear that you can only see a few teeth of. put your screw driver tip in the slot with the teeth and turn to go up or down

its very very easy to install a spacer on the ranger strut assembly. easier than almost anything i have ever done a spacer lift on. drinking lots of water in 100+ heat, i did mine in less than an hour on each side. and thats with lots of water breaks and feeling like i was going to dehydrate and die. the sway bar end links come out easily, the tie rod end link slides off easy, and the upper ball joint comes out with ease from the knuckle so you can lean the knuckle out of hte way and then just pop the strut assembly off once you remove the upper 3 and lower 2 nuts. when you reinstall the assembly with the spacer on top, you are supposed to tap out the lower bolts from the strut and seat the strut in place and then reinstall the lower bolts and nuts.

once you remove the upper and lower nuts, just push on the lower control arm with your foot and it will drop enough to pull the strut out of the truck. and when you put the spacer on, if the strut doesn't align, you can grab the bottom and twist it by hand once the top bolts are in place on the truck. mine were off by about 30 degrees so i just grabbed them and twisted them to align them with the holes.

its very easy though

Thanks for the insight. I really want to get these on before my first oil change on my 24 XLT FX4. I plan on trying to keep the rest of the wheel assembly and suspension stock (for now). Has it changed your ride at all? I have gotten used to the suspension of the FX4 but it’s definitely a bumpy ride on pavement.

 

[superj]

my truck rode unusually smooth, my son and father in law both said (they both have 6g rangers too) and it made mine ride a tiny bit stiffer. my wife hasn't noticed a change though so thats how little difference it made in ride stiffness


mine is also staying stock tires and stuff for a while.

 

[YukonRanger]

my truck rode unusually smooth, my son and father in law both said (they both have 6g rangers too) and it made mine ride a tiny bit stiffer. my wife hasn't noticed a change though so thats how little difference it made in ride stiffness


mine is also staying stock tires and stuff for a while.

From what I understand, after a strut spacer lift you need to recalibrate shocks with forscan

After adding the spacers, the truck is sensing that the front end is slightly airborne\lifted from a bump or jump and therefore stiffens things up for the landing

but in reality it on flat ground


More here

https://goatoffroad.com.au/blogs/tech-talk/the-ultimate-guide-to-lifting-your-ranger-raptor

 

[Dhass68]

From what I understand, after a strut spacer lift you need to recalibrate shocks with forscan

After adding the spacers, the truck is sensing that the front end is slightly airborne\lifted from a bump or jump and therefore stiffens things up for the landing

but in reality it on flat ground


More here

https://goatoffroad.com.au/blogs/tech-talk/the-ultimate-guide-to-lifting-your-ranger-raptor

That's for the Raptor

 

[DavidCGonzales]

With the RC lift you can't jump the truck or do anything that causes full extension of the control arms without risk of damaging the upper ball joint. With any change in height you will need to calibrate the height, this can be done with ForScan or other scan tools with this capability.

 

[Rollo]

From what I understand, after a strut spacer lift you need to recalibrate shocks with forscan

After adding the spacers, the truck is sensing that the front end is slightly airborne\lifted from a bump or jump and therefore stiffens things up for the landing

but in reality it on flat ground


More here

https://goatoffroad.com.au/blogs/tech-talk/the-ultimate-guide-to-lifting-your-ranger-raptor

Interesting article. They actually recommend strut spacers (within 2" or less) over the alternatives for the Ranger Raptor. Wonder how much this would change with a non-Raptor Ranger?? I was considering Eibach struts over a spacer for my 2.7 XLT with the FX4 package. Maybe I'll just save the $$ and buy spacers instead for a mild lift upfront but would love some of the same insight on the options for my setup.

 

[superj]

i think the 2 inch spacer would look better. i have the 2.5 and its so close that it appears to be front high

 

[Rollo]

i think the 2 inch spacer would look better. i have the 2.5 and its so close that it appears to be front high

Do you have the 2.7L or 2.3L? From what I understand the added weight of the 2.7L will drop it another 1/2 inch or so.

 

[superj]

Do you have the 2.7L or 2.3L? From what I understand the added weight of the 2.7L will drop it another 1/2 inch or so.

i bet thats possible. i do have the lighter 2.3

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