I can when I get free in a bit if I remember. but basically measure from the top of your bed rail, to the top of the cab. this picture was when I had to get rescue my father in laws chickens from the mandatory evacuation from a forest fire earlier the summer that was way to close for comfort. was less then 700meters from my womens grandmother, and 1100 meters from the fadder inlaw
I do miss the high rise on my old ranger, but for the plans I want to do, I went with the low rise.
Does the body building manual show anywhere to connect for a 12 volt outlet in the bed? I know I can tap the trailer tow wire but I've heard rumors there might be a plug somewhere on the harness to plug in the 12 volt socket harness. I'd like to have at least a #12 AWG to support a 5 amp fridge draw with voltage drop considerations.The Ford Body Builder Guide shows what wire to tap on the BCM for the 3rd brake for accessories. I tapped that, and ran a wire out through the firewall access behind the bcm as per the fbbg. It also showed a high beam trigger, a marker light trigger, and a ignition run/start trigger. I then got some single run 3 conductor wire 14G and ran it to the back of the truck, following the factory harness, and opening and tucking in troughs to hide/protect it. the ground is connected to the ground point on the fender support with my arb dual battery kit/truck battery, and hot wire is on thr "low draw" side of the battery terminals per the fbbg, and the brake wire goes from the bcm wire to the back, where it is powering the cap 3rd brake, and my Diode Dynamics ssc1r's brake function under the bumper. The marker and reverse and ground are through their trailer harness. once I removed the brake side of the c1r's, I stopped getting the trailer kight malfunction errors.
the marker light trigger is used to turn on my grill lights, tell my diode dynamics dswitch to turn on night mode, dims the switch panel(and once I get my diode dynamics light bars over the winter/spring, I will enable the sensor wire the marker is hooked up to to turn on the back lighting/accent lighting on the bars) the run/start wire is used to tell my dswitch to turn on and off automatically when I start the truck or shut the truck off fully(start/stop doesn't effect the ignition wire under the bcm) and can still manually turn on and off the dswitch with the truck shut off and key removed.
the highbeam trigger is hooked up to one of the dswitch sensor wires, and is set to automatically turn on what channels I select in the app. so right now it automatically turns on my 10" lightbar in the lower grill.
I realize this is my cap thread, and went a little off topic, but figgured easy to answer majority of the questions I might get in this comment. lol
It's been my experience with running my lights on my headache rack off the trailer tow wire harness, tends to set off the auto trail detection and shuts off several of the safety features.
Nope. but the 12v power is already there under the bed. This is the plug the bed power point panel plugs into, ypu can see its 6 wires in one side of the plug, and only 4 going out. 2 are the +/- for the 12v, and the other 4 are for the 110v plug. you can get the pins and put them in the connector and run your own 12v socket. or if perfer the oem look and dont mind paying for new, order a 24 ranger power panel.. or get one from junkyard.
thats why above I included the fbbg with taping the 3rd brake light circuit at the bcm. as per ford. I did this with the c1r's brake signal. I had to cut the left/right brake/turn wires off of diode Dynamics harness. capped the one end. and tied both left/right c1r wires into the 1 brake wire from the bcm. this got rig of my trailer light error. Now if you want backrack STT's you need to have sepperate lights for brake, and sepperate for turn, and go at the tail light wires.
Yea my ARE topper dealer pretty much described to me what you posted pics of earlier wiring it directly into the BCM under the hood.thats why above I included the fbbg with taping the 3rd brake light circuit at the bcm. as per ford. I did this with the c1r's brake signal. I had to cut the left/right brake/turn wires off of diode Dynamics harness. capped the one end. and tied both left/right c1r wires into the 1 brake wire from the bcm. this got rig of my trailer light error. Now if you want backrack STT's you need to have sepperate lights for brake, and sepperate for turn, and go at the tail light wires.
the putco lightblade only available on ford accessories, uses tail light passthrough connectors to get the STT signals from the tail lights and not the trailer plug.
If you dont mind running wires, you can get a 3 to 2 trailer wiring converter. run the brake line from the bcm to the cap/converter that gives your brake signal, then just tap into the rear turn signals, and run that to the converter. that give you your brake and turn functions. and then keep the trailer plug harness for the ground and reverse wires. thats essentially what I did with thr diode harness. minus the turn signal functionality. once I removed the brake side of the c1r's from the stop/turn wires at the trailer plug, it works flawlessly now. the diode trailer passthrough harness still gives me my marker lights, the ground, and the reverse light power for the c1r's.
My topper installer told me they are going to get brake light power and power for the LED dome light from the trailer 7 way circuit. If this is correct maybe I'd better have a talk with them.
if you get a leer from ford, they have their own harness available only from leer/ford. but a leer aftermarket upfitter apparently can not buy that harness, its exclusive for ford accessories. What I posted above is the body builder guide, that aftermarket upfitters have access to.
I took a peek today and saw the plug connector, I have all 6 wires on the feed side and nothing on the other side (I do not have the 120 volt option). So it would appear that all I need to do is pin that empty connector at the purple/brn & black/gray wires for my 12V outlet? Any idea what size those wires are and if they will support a 5 amp load with minimal voltage drop? If I had to guess they look like AWG 16 which doesn't give me a lot of confidence running a compressor fridge, unless the size increases on it's way to the source.
