ARIES ACTIONTRAC POWER RUNNIG BOARD INSTALL ON 24' RAPTOR

[DHOGY]

I INSTALLED THESE BECAUSE MY WIFE JUST COULDN'T REACH THE FACTORY BOARDS WITHOUT A LITTLE STOOL. I CHOSE THESE BOARDS BECUASE THEY HAVE TWO STEPS. THE ONE THAT DROPS DOWN AND THE HOUSING THEY HIDE IN. THE KITS ARE 3025179 FOR THE BOARDS AND 3025123 FOR THE BRACKETS. THE WIRING HARNESS AND CONTROLER COME WITH THE BRACKET KIT. WHEN UNPACKING BE AWARE THAT THERE IS A PACKAGE OF MAGNETS THAT MAY GET STUCK TO THE BACK SIDE OF ONE OF THE BRACKETS (DIDN'T FIND THEM UNTIL I WENT TO INSTALL THE BRACKETS. THE INCLUDED DIRECTIONS ARE GOOD BUT I THINK THEY HARNESS MAY ALSO BE USED FOR AND F150 AS THE PICTURES ARE OF ONE. I STARTED WITH THE WIRNING HARNESS. FORD FORTUNATLY INCLUDED A PASS THRU ON THE MAIN HARNESS BULKHEAD GROMET.

THERE IS A MOLDED "CAP" THATYOU WILL NEEDTO CUT OFF, ON THE INSIDE THERE IS ANOTHER 'PLUG'

I USED A DRILL TO 'CUT' IT OUT. TO MY SUPPRISE THERE IS YET ANOTHER ''PLUG" INSIDE.I HAD TO RUN THE DRILL BIT ALL THE WAY THROUGH. I HAD TO CUT THE CONNECTORS THAT COME ONTHE HARNESS OFF AS THEY WOULDN'T FIT THROUGH THE HOLES. I TOOK A WIRE COAT HANGER, STRAIGHTEND IT THEN RAN IT THROUGH FROM THE INSIDE THEN TAPED THE RED AND BLACK WIRES TO IT AND PULLED THEM THROUGH FROM THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.

AFTER I GOT THE WIRES THROUGH I REMOVED THE FUSE FROM THE FUSE HOLDER AND THEN ATTACHED THE RED WIRE TO THE EMPTY BATTERY TERMINAL AND THE GROUND TO THE GROUND TERMAINAL. THEN DRESSED THE WIRES WITH WIRE TIES

ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAB THE BRADED HARNES LOOKS LIKE

IF YOU WANT TO MAINTAIN WATER TIGHT YOU WILL NEED TO PUT SOME SEALANT ON BOTH SIDES OF THE HARNESS JUST TO BE SURE.
NOW THE TRIM PANELS. HERE ARE THE PICS OF THE BACK SIDE YOU GET AN IDEA OF WHERE ALL THE CLIPS ARE. I HAD ISSUES WITH THE MID PANELS AND STUCK CLIPS.

I ROUTED THE REST OF THE HARNESS FROM THE FRONT KICK PANEL TO THE BACK THEN ACCROSS THE BACK SEAT.

I LEFT EVERYTHING LOOSE WHILE FIGUREING OUT ROUTING. ACCORDING TO THE DIRECTIONS YOU WILL NEED TO DRILL A 1' HOLE TO ON EITHER SIDE TO RUN THE HARNESS TO THE BOARDS. I CHOSE TO USE THE FACTORY HOLES AND CUT A HOLE IN THE FACTORY GROMET. I USED A SPENT 45 ACP CARTRIGE AS A HOLE PUNCH

ONTHE DRIVER SIDE HARNESS THE HOLE IN THE FLOOR IS OVER THE GAS TANK. SO YOU WILL HAVE TO REACH UP AND PULL IT OVER TOP OF THE FRAME. ON THE PASSENGER SIDE THE EXHAUST HEAT SHIELD IS IN THE WAY.YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE LOOSE TO FISH THE HARNESS OVER THE FRAME

ONCE THOSE WERE IN PLACE I WENT BACK TO THE FRONT TO INSTALL THE POWER SWITCH.

I BENT THE SUPPLIED SWITCH BRACKET AND ATTACHED IT TO AN EMPTY HOLE NEXT TO THE ODB II PORT. THE GROUND WIRE WAS ATTACHED WITH THE OTHER GROUNDS ON THE KICK PANEL. NOW BACK TO THE REAR. THE KIT COMES WITH TWO SWITCH EXTENTION CABLES THAT ARE FOR THE FRONT DOORS. I ONLY NEEDED ONE FOR THE DRIVER SIDE REAR.

I THEN RAN THE PASSANGER SIDE REAR. UNFORTUNALY I DIDN'T TAKE PICTURES OF THE SWITCH PLACEMENT. REFER TO THE DIRECTIONS. I THEN MOVED TO THE FRONT DOORS. NOW THAT THE HANRESS WAS ALL LAYED OUT I HAD TO FIGURE OUT WHERE THE CONTROL BOX WAS GOING TO LIVE. I REMOVED THE BINS AND CARPET UNDER THE REAR SEAT.

THIS SEEMED LIKE THE PERFICT PLACE.

I PRINTED A BRACKET TO MOUNT IT. IT STILL NEEDS SOME WORK, I LATER FOUND THAT THE 'LEGS' ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SEAT HIT IT SO I WILL HAVE TO REDESIGN IT. ALL THE WIRING IN THE CAB IS COMPLETE. MOVING ON TO THE BRACKETS.

THE KIT COMES WITH ALL THE HARDWARE YOU NEED. I CHOSE TO USE THE FACTORY BOLTS INSTEAD OF THE PROVIDED 10mm ONES.
THE TWO REAR BRACKETS ARE THE SAME AND THE FRONT IS UNIQUE. I INITIALY INSTALLED THE BRACKETS LEAVING THEM LOOSES AS THE DIRECTIONS STATE. UPON INSTALLING THE BOARD I FOUND THAT THEY HIT (OR AT LEAST COME VARY CLOSE TOO) THE FLARES (PROBABLY NOT A PROBLEM ON A NON RAPTOR).

I ADDED 2 7/16" FLAT WASHERS UNDER THE LOWER BOLT ON EACH BRACKET TO MOVE THE BOARDS DOWN ABOUT 3/16" REMEMBER NOT TO TIGHTEN ANYTHING JUST YET.

INSTALL 3 OF THE PROVIDED BOLT PLATES IN THE BOTTOM SLOT

YOU HOOK THE BOARD TO THE BRACKETS ( THER IS A SLOT AT THE TOP TO SIT ON THE BRACKET) THEN LINE UP THE BOLT PLATES TO THE RESPECTIVE BRACKET. CENTER THE BOARD BETWEEN THE WHEEL WELLS. ONCE DONE INTALL THE LIGHT BRACKET (ON THE MIDDLE BRACKET) THEN THE WASHER AND LOCK NUTS. NOW TIGHTEN THE MAIN BRACKET BOLTS. PAY ATTENTION TO THE PIGTAIL LOCATION IT SHOULD BE TO THE BACK OF THE TRUCK. NOW YOU CAN PLUG THE PASSENGER SIDE BOARD IN. THIS SIDE WAS A CLOSE FIT. THE OTHER SIDE EVERYTHING WENT WELL UNTIL I FOUND THAT THE HARNESS WAS ABOUT 8IN SHORT. FORUNATLY I HAD SOME DELPHI WEATHER PACK CONNECTORS SO I JUST MADE AN EXTENTION.
NOW THAT EVERYTING IS PLUGED IN I REINSTALLED THE FUSE AND SET ABOUT TESTING THE DOOR SWITCHES. THE SWITCHES WORK ON CONTACT WITH THE MAGENTS IF YOU PLACE THE MAGNET ON THE SWITCH IT WILL ACTUATE IT. I PLACED A MAGNET ON EACH SWITCH THEN REMOVED EACH ONE IN TURN TO MAKE SURE THAT IT ALL WORKED. I DID FIND ONE OF THE DOOR SWITCHES WAS A BIT FINAKY ON THE MAGNET PLACEMENT. I FOUND THAT IF I HAD THE WEATHER STRIPING PULLED BACK I COULD PLACE THE MAGNET ON THE SWITCH CLOSE THE DOOR AND THE MAGNET WOULD TRANSFER TO THE DOOR. THE KIT COMES WITH DOUBLE SIDED TAPE TO SECURE THE MAGNETS BUT I FOUND THAT WHEN THE BACKING WAS REMOVED IT WASN'T STICKY. I USED A SHARPY TO MARK THE LOCATION SO IF IT GETS MOVED BEFORE I CAN GET SOME OTHER TWO SIDED TAPE I KNOW WHERE IT GOES. ONCE EVERYTHING CHECKED OUT I REPLACED ALL THE PANELS MAKING SURE NOT TO PINCH ANY WIRES. AFTER THE INSTALL I MEASURED THE GROUND CLEARNCE @14-1/2" AND THE DROP DOWN STEP HEIGHT AT ABOUT 11 INCHES.

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[CACTUSGREYFX4]

Nice and all but why yell with caps