Installed Eibach Springs on Ranger Raptor (Before / After Height Measurements)

[GoDirect]

Just had Eibach Springs put on my 2025 RR. 2.3" front/1.6"-0 rear
Measurements to fender

Before/After:

• Front - 37 5/8" - 40"
• Rear - 39 1/4" - 41 1/8"

Method 703 Titanium +35mm
Wheel Spacer +10mm

Falken Wildpeak AT/4W - 35/11.5/17

Minimal rub on highway (reverse only). Still need to remove the crash bars for clearance offroad.

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[GoDirect]

 

[superj]

dang, that is close up front. at least they pull back while driving forward

 

[MauiMax]

If you want to run some type of crash bars people are saying the ready lift ones fit.
https://www.readylift.com/high-clea...IZYYqwl-xVVE7HCLrG24BW0O6vXo9hbMU_GdolgoOdmSM

 

[E40]

Thank you for sharing!!
how much castor did you get from the alignment? Also how much weight you are carrying in the back??

It seems like fronts are spot on the advertised lift height, and rears got slightly higher than 1.6” considering the topper on the bed.

Im also considering Eibach combo as well but with 1.6” front springs.

 

[got3fords]

Did you get the Eibachs because of the bigger tires, or did the factory shocks suck?

 

[GoDirect]

Thank you for sharing!!
how much castor did you get from the alignment? Also how much weight you are carrying in the back??

It seems like fronts are spot on the advertised lift height, and rears got slightly higher than 1.6” considering the topper on the bed.

Im also considering Eibach combo as well but with 1.6” front springs.

Can't answer the caster question. The SmartCap is 210lbs. Will be adding bed slide in the near future.
Building it for daily driver (retired) and overlanding with the family. It road so nice stock, I was hesitant to change out the factory springs but I want clearance. Maybe Ford will build it with 35" in the future. Until then I'll see how it works with aftermarket.

 

[GoDirect]

Did you get the Eibachs because of the bigger tires, or did the factory shocks suck?

Factory ride was great. Needed clearance and wanted to run 35". Perch collars are the same cost as springs plus I will be adding weight in the bed as I build.
The ride is certainly different. Everything comes with a cost!

 

[GoDirect]

Ford Family. Couldn't go with the Bison for 35" tires.
1977 F350 Ranger Camper Special.

 

[james1108]

Just had Eibach Springs put on my 2025 RR. 2.3" front/1.6"-0 rear
Measurements to fender

Before/After:

• Front - 37 5/8" - 40"
• Rear - 39 1/4" - 41 1/8"

Method 703 Titanium +35mm
Wheel Spacer +10mm

Falken Wildpeak AT/4W - 35/11.5/17

Minimal rub on highway (reverse only). Still need to remove the crash bars for clearance offroad.

Personally I wouldn’t recommend doing a spring lift with those live valve shocks. You’re altering the at rest position of them which gives you less usable down travel and the ride will get firmer. It also does. Nothing for tire clearance at full compression. The shocks still have the same amount of travel as before meaning shocks bump stock will still engage at the same spot so your tire can still go straight into your guards. Especially if you’re planning to out anything heavy on your bed. Perch collar lifts do essentially the same thing. They are just putting a space between your spring the top of the shock. The shock still has the same amount of travel and the bumper is still at the same spot. Should have went with the puck/strut spacer lift if you were going to do one. It moves the truck up away from the shocks. Shocks still have the same amount of travel but they are now resting where they should with the 35s and the bump stop is now lower which will prevent your tire from smacking the guard.

 

[AZ Ranger Raptor]

Personally I wouldn’t recommend doing a spring lift with those live valve shocks. You’re altering the at rest position of them which gives you less usable down travel and the ride will get firmer. It also does. Nothing for tire clearance at full compression. The shocks still have the same amount of travel as before meaning shocks bump stock will still engage at the same spot so your tire can still go straight into your guards. Especially if you’re planning to out anything heavy on your bed. Perch collar lifts do essentially the same thing. They are just putting a space between your spring the top of the shock. The shock still has the same amount of travel and the bumper is still at the same spot. Should have went with the puck/strut spacer lift if you were going to do one. It moves the truck up away from the shocks. Shocks still have the same amount of travel but they are now resting where they should with the 35s and the bump stop is now lower which will prevent your tire from smacking the guard.

I agree with you. I put Geiser Ranger Raptor 1.25 inch front leveling springs on mine. I ran it for a month, it drove like my old f250 on leaf springs on the road, worked “OK “ on rough high speed off road. I prefer the plush ride.
I had Geiser springs removed and replaced with 1 inch puck/strut spacer/tophat in front….whatever you want to call it. My great high speed off road suspension is back. If I was going to go with 35 inch tires, I would put a two inch spacer in front, and move that 1 inch spacer I now have in front, and move it to the rear. (35’s will not rub) G.O.A.T Off-road in Australia has been doing this a lot longer than USA boys. They have a nice video splaning it.

 

[cc1999]

Just had Eibach Springs put on my 2025 RR. 2.3" front/1.6"-0 rear
Measurements to fender

Before/After:

• Front - 37 5/8" - 40"
• Rear - 39 1/4" - 41 1/8"

Method 703 Titanium +35mm
Wheel Spacer +10mm

Falken Wildpeak AT/4W - 35/11.5/17

Minimal rub on highway (reverse only). Still need to remove the crash bars for clearance offroad.

Nice Setup!
‘Looks great!

 

[Buellsox]

Ford Family. Couldn't go with the Bison for 35" tires.
1977 F350 Ranger Camper Special.

Damn! That ‘77 R.C.S. Is a beauty! Sitting right and sitting stock that’s one helluva 1-ton!

 

[El_Chuco]

The springs / perch collar make sense if you're carrying more weight and want to restore ride height, which is critical if you want your live-valve shocks to do their jobs. You can recalibrate the live valve, but it doesn't move the physical bypass circuits. The piston needs to be at rest in the designed part of the shock and needs to move as designed through its travel.

The Ranger that ran Baja 1000 / Finke has threaded shock bodies for added preload to compensate for the added weight of the cage, safety gear, spares, tires, etc. I got a real good look at it, at the Mint last weekend.

Be wary of progressive springs with additional coils. Those will often run into coil bind before you get to the 'bump stop' area of those shocks, several F150 raptors with frame cracks, and destroyed top hats, etc.

Lifting for larger tires raises your center of gravity, changes instant centers, etc, and larger tires typically increase scrub radius, putting more strain on your tie-rods, for example. Everything is a trade-off.

The 'right' way to me, is to just clearance wheel wells to fit larger tires, if I actually need to raise the vehicle to clear common obstacles. Often a lot more work, but the only way to maintain the tremendous capabilities of our stock RR suspension, with as few performance tradeoffs as possible.

The spacer hats are the least invasive, least amount of change, bolt on option, though, in my opinion, if you're not into massaging metal.

 

[E40]

@El_Chuco I agree with your point on perch/spring lifts vs. strut spacers. If you’re planning to keep your RR bone stock, a strut spacer is probably the most straightforward solution.

However, once you start carrying meaningful weight, the decision becomes much more complicated —especially in cases like the OP, who already has a truck cap and plans to add more load. At that point, there’s no perfect solution; it’s about making trade-offs and choosing the setup that best balances your priorities.

In my case, I’m running about 400 lbs of static weight in the bed (rack, RTT, slides, etc), plus another 150ish lbs of additional components (skids, light bar, sound deadening, etc.) that weighs down both axles. Rear sag becomes much more noticeable when I add another 300–400 lbs for overland trips.

While the added weight actually improves highway ride quality, it significantly hurts ground clearance, which becomes the limiting factor off-road. That’s why I’m leaning toward Eibach springs: 1.5" in the front (same rate as stock, but ~0.8" longer) and 1.6" HD springs in the rear (~25% stiffer, similar length to stock).
see
This setup will likely place me on the lower side of the ride zone, but it gives me additional usable compression travel to better absorb heavier impacts. The trade-off is a slight reduction in rebound extension, but for my use case, that’s an acceptable compromise.

But then my concern is whether the "longer" spring will make the bowing effect much worse on the front springs... (see my thread here)

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