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Kicker Hideaway Subwoofer Install

Sauce

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I know people have installed the Kicker Hideaway HS8 in the rear seatback area, but has anyone installed the HS10? The price is similar and the size is almost the same, but want to make confirm the HS10 fits. How tight is the fit on the HS8?

For those of you who have installed the either of these, any tips or tricks to be aware of? Maybe a dumb question, but has anyone plugged it into the fusebox instead of connecting to the battery (if so, which fuse)? My plan is to tap input into the rear door speakers - any tips on identifying which are the correct wires (color code or other means of identification)?

Im a newbie for car stereo installation, but it seems relatively simple (famous last words). The unit comes highly recommended, price is right, I also like the fact that it is a powered unit, and I like the fact that it doesnt take up the (tiny) underseat storage where I keep my jumper pack and compressor.
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jrRaptor

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I went with the HS10 so can confirm it fits.

No tips or tricks, it's pretty simple. See my post about it in this thread.

I wired power (fused) to battery, I wouldn't run power to fuse box for an amp, too much amperage for the factory wiring. I used stock sub input but got an OEM sub connector so I didn't have to cut any of the factory wiring. Have to have the tools to crimp correctly though.

In hindsight I don't feel it's worth the price. If I did it over I'd get a sub for the underseat cubby. But car audio is subjective. Lots of people like it.
 
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Sauce

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Thanks a lot. Any chance you have the PN for the one with pigtails? If I understand correctly, you had to remove the actual stereo head unit to plug into the back of it? How hard was that? Trying to keep this as easy as possible to align with my (lack of) skillset.

My XLT doesn't have a subwoofer at all, so I would imagine the upgrade is more significant that coming from the stock sub that came with yours, but maybe not.
 

pablo94sc

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I got the rest of my CLD this morning, so I'm going to take some measurements when I start on the back of the cab. I'd much rather have a sub behind the seat instead of under it. Plus, it'll let me build a custom box, and I sure do enjoy making saw dust.
 
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jrRaptor

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Thanks a lot. Any chance you have the PN for the one with pigtails? If I understand correctly, you had to remove the actual stereo head unit to plug into the back of it? How hard was that? Trying to keep this as easy as possible to align with my (lack of) skillset.

My XLT doesn't have a subwoofer at all, so I would imagine the upgrade is more significant that coming from the stock sub that came with yours, but maybe not.
Oh sorry, didn't realize you don't have a factory sub. No I didn't pull stereo at all, I just plugged into the factory harness at the sub location. So if you don't have the factory sub harness, the connector/pigtail wouldn't do you any good. I would just use a line output convertor and tap into a speaker lead as you mentioned. Try a search for one of the audio upgrade threads here on the 6G forum as plenty of people have gone that route and might lead you in a better direction.

I got the rest of my CLD this morning, so I'm going to take some measurements when I start on the back of the cab. I'd much rather have a sub behind the seat instead of under it. Plus, it'll let me build a custom box, and I sure to enjoy making saw dust.
That sound deadening will go a long ways and I need to start on mine. I'll be interested in what you come with for an enclosure behind the seat. Not a lot of room for mounting depth so sub selection will be key. I remember being able to put 2 10's in a custom enclosure behind the seat of my 2nd gen ranger back in the day and that was a tight squeeze with a lot more room.
 

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Sauce

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For anyone who has tapped the sub audio source from the rear speaker wires, do you get any weird engine enhancement sounds or other annoying effects amplified through the sub? Seems like this is an issue on other Ford vehicles (and the prior gen Ranger), not sure its the same here or not.
 

superj

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If you do, you can turn sound off in forscan, i bet. I found it on some spreadsheets for some other ford vehicles so we would just have to try it to verify
 

MeBEEF

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I know people have installed the Kicker Hideaway HS8 in the rear seatback area, but has anyone installed the HS10? The price is similar and the size is almost the same, but want to make confirm the HS10 fits. How tight is the fit on the HS8?

For those of you who have installed the either of these, any tips or tricks to be aware of? Maybe a dumb question, but has anyone plugged it into the fusebox instead of connecting to the battery (if so, which fuse)? My plan is to tap input into the rear door speakers - any tips on identifying which are the correct wires (color code or other means of identification)?

Im a newbie for car stereo installation, but it seems relatively simple (famous last words). The unit comes highly recommended, price is right, I also like the fact that it is a powered unit, and I like the fact that it doesnt take up the (tiny) underseat storage where I keep my jumper pack and compressor.
it doesn't matter they both suck. I have it installed and it's better than the stock but not really here is why:

(1) you can't turn it up past 20% gain. If you do the Aliminum enclosure resonates and you get a ton of dogshit noise.

(2) the cross over point is low, my guess is 120 Hz, and it is a sharp roll off. So bass lines in rock music are half there.

it's ok for the price but set you expectations up front it's not good it's just OK.
 
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Sauce

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Any alternatives you suggest? Is the Stealthbox significantly better? I’d prefer a powered unit but open to any suggestions.
 

pablo94sc

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That sound deadening will go a long ways and I need to start on mine. I'll be interested in what you come with for an enclosure behind the seat. Not a lot of room for mounting depth so sub selection will be key. I remember being able to put 2 10's in a custom enclosure behind the seat of my 2nd gen ranger back in the day and that was a tight squeeze with a lot more room.
I measured with the seat and jack removed, so consider these rough estimates.

20" L
14" H
5" D (bottom)
2" D (top)

I'm going to leave the box design to someone with better software than I have available, but I think we can get just over .5cuft of airspace for a sealed box. More, if we were able to make it out of plastic or fiberglass to make use of all the nooks and crannies. Just need to mount the jack in the bed, something I was thinking of doing anyway as I never liked scissor jacks.
 

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superj

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Maybe an 8 inch bass cannon fits? Those can be bought powered also and thise suckers make some boom
 
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Sauce

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Maybe an 8 inch bass cannon fits? Those can be bought powered also and thise suckers make some boom
Definitely cant fit 8" diameter behind the rear seat (above poster mentions 5" clearance at the bottom). I kind of doubt there's a good spot for that, but I'll dig around the truck to see if I could stash that somewhere.

Seems like two posters with poor reviews of the Kicker, so I'm kind of back to the drawing board here. Would hate to go through the brain damage of installing it for it to suck. Not sure I'm willing to pay up for a Stealthbox / amp at this point.
 

superj

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What's that other powered flat sub company thats really popular.... man, i cannot think of their name. Its some generic sounding amazon conpany but the reviews were surprisingly good and alot of people put the speaker under the front seat and it fit and worked well.


Dang, i will probably remember tonight when i am about to fall asleep.
 
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Sauce

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What's that other powered flat sub company thats really popular.... man, i cannot think of their name. Its some generic sounding amazon conpany but the reviews were surprisingly good and alot of people put the speaker under the front seat and it fit and worked well.


Dang, i will probably remember tonight when i am about to fall asleep.
Is it this one (Rockville)? Lots of positive reviews, but also some people saying the amp failed.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RW...fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666&th=1
 

MeBEEF

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Any alternatives you suggest? Is the Stealthbox significantly better? I’d prefer a powered unit but open to any suggestions.
It's going to be the best one anyways. The next better thing
Any alternatives you suggest? Is the Stealthbox significantly better? I’d prefer a powered unit but open to any suggestions.
The Stealthbox will be a lot better, that specific speaker ( 10TW1-2 ) is specifically designed for smaller enclosure volumes. So it is 4x the cost.

I WILL buy this probably within a couple of months, along with new speakers/amp.

If you buy an external crossover and set it to 200Hz with a 3dB/dec roll-off, you will not loose much of rock-n-roll baselines. The crossover is critical for the type of music you like.

Honestly if you have the budget for the stealthbox, save your time and $ (like I didn't), and go for it.

I am not saying the kicker is bad, it's just not good. the upper half of the gain is absolutely pointless with all of the structure vibration noise. I'm not sure why the knob is even there.
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