Ran out of Upfitters - Final Light Solution for the front of the truck

[Deleted member 8167]

Just finished up the second attempt at getting a light setup on my FMI light bar mount. I'll outline the process and you can see the final results.

First -
Installed the light mount.
Installed my KC Hilites Gravity 6 lights (6 total)
They weighed 25 lbs and the lights jiggled as you went down the road.
Uninstalled them and the light mount.

Second -
Unwilling to give up - I reinstalled the light mount
But this time I used their included support brackets. Yes it drills into the bumper - No I didn't really care. (ARB are you listening I want that summit bumper)
Huge improvement in stability.

Second part 2 -
I think took my old fog light kit and repurposed it.
It is 2 Flex Era 3s, and 4 Flex Era 1s. It's this kit
I do have the materials to make Deutsch connectors - so I made a loom for these.
Each light has 3 wires.
The Flex Era 3 - one mode is SAE compliant and one is full bright
The Flex Era 1 - One mode is amber backlight, one mode is full bright.
So one mode is SEA + Backlight (pretty legal)
The other mode is FULL BLAST (super not legal.
Here is a video:
It goes in this order:
Low Breams, no fogs
High Beams, no fogs
Low Beams, KC Hilites SAE Fogs
Low Beams, KC HiLites SAW Fogs + OEM Fogs
Full Blast


Now To Wiring
Aux 1 - KC Hilites RGB Roc Lights - They pull 2.5a on the 5a switch
Aux 2 - Signature Lux Grill Lights & SAE Mode for Flex Era 3 and Backlights on Flex Era 1 - That Pulls 7.3a on a 15a switch
Aux 3 - Empty because it's in the rear
Aux 4 - Empty because it's in the rear
Aux 5 - Midland GMRS Radio
Aux 6 - Full Blast KC Hilites Flex Era 3 and 1s - This pulls 17a on a 25a switch

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[ducktapeonmydesk]

While you were messing around in there, have you found a switched power wire that can be tapped into? I got the M&R 40" light bar with white and amber and I want that amber to be on with DRLs.

 

[Deleted member 8167]

Not but I wasn’t looking either. An aux switch is ignition keyed. So I just leave the switch on all the time.

 

[ducktapeonmydesk]

Not but I wasn’t looking either. An aux switch is ignition keyed. So I just leave the switch on all the time.

I was just hoping to avoid tying up an aux switch for something I was going to leave in all the time.

 

[Deleted member 8167]

You could always use fuse 35 from the interior panel and run the wire out the rubber grommet in the firewall. I know for a fact that one is switched power… I hesitate to use the exterior fuse blocks because the lid never seals right with a wire coming out…

 

[ducktapeonmydesk]

You could always use fuse 35 from the interior panel and run the wire out the rubber grommet in the firewall. I know for a fact that one is switched power… I hesitate to use the exterior fuse blocks because the lid never seals right with a wire coming out…

I might just have to do that. I am using one of the fuses near 35 for my dashcam, if not 35 itself.

It's not a huge deal, I likely will never end up using all of the switches, anyways.

 

[coolsp2]

You could always use fuse 35 from the interior panel and run the wire out the rubber grommet in the firewall. I know for a fact that one is switched power… I hesitate to use the exterior fuse blocks because the lid never seals right with a wire coming out…

I drilled a hole into the fuse panel and used a rubber grommet along with sealant to feed the wire out from the fuse box. That was the only way to feed the wire out otherwise the panel won’t close fully.

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