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RR wheel alignment, OEM tires ,wheel balance and steering wheel vibrations

GLW

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I admit I know very little about automobiles and a lot of what I do know I’ve learned over the last year from the folks on this forum.

Thank you and forgive me if I’m asking a “duh” question.

A couple months ago I had a 2” leveling kit and Methods 703’s (35 offset) installed on my 24 RR using the OEM tires.

The transformation in looks incredible!

However, I noticed a slight steering wheel vibration, I think. Here’s some facts.
  1. I used a reputable shop for the work.
  2. The new wheels were balanced.
  3. The truck was realigned after leveling kit and new wheels were installed
  4. Lug torque is 100
  5. Tire PSI is 39 cold
  6. I cannot say I didn’t have slight steering wheel vibration before changes because I do not ever recall letting go of the steering wheel pre changes to check alignment. Maybe it was always there.
  7. Over the last two months I have noticed the vibration happens at the same locations on a fixed route. At other locations on the same route it’s like glass with NO vibrations going 70-75 mph. I know, duh!
  8. I drove my wife’s Highlander on the same route and yes at some areas I could feel a vibration and other areas, glass. BUT NO SLIGHT STEERING WHEEL VIBRATIONS, JUST SEAT VIBRATION.
  9. I have owned a pickup before (F150 extended cab all stock).
So my question:

Can the RR OEM tires have a reaction to highway road surfaces that can cause the steering wheel to slightly vibrate or do I have another issue I need to look into. I just want to verify I didn’t mess up my truck chasing a “look.”

Thanks

Gary
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superj

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if you can feel vibes in the other vehicles too, i would say its the road. other wise, maybe if your wheels are out farther then stock, there is a little more movement being felt since they are putting centrifugal forces on the front hubs and stuff, being out farther
 
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GLW

GLW

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if you can feel vibes in the other vehicles too, i would say its the road. other wise, maybe if your wheels are out farther then stock, there is a little more movement being felt since they are putting centrifugal forces on the front hubs and stuff, being out farther
That makes sense and yes, the new wheels are out farther than the OEM wheels. Thanks for your time.
 

joprato

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Pictures requested for the 703 with 35 offset please @GLW ! Would love to check it out as I’m thinking of getting some of those, bronze colour. 😜
 
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joprato

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Ooooohhh 😍 that’s a good looking truck ! Thanks for the pics !
 

macaw6

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As A teen (many many many years ago) I was like A lot of You people here. At that time manufacture's just built A truck to do A job, and there were many ways to improve on factory design. That is not always the case anymore. It is hard to comprehend how much research development time and money went into these trucks. Everything on the trucks have been built to work together and look great straight from the factory. The tire, tire size, wheel size, wheel offset, shocks, springs, bearings, weight distribution, and everything else about the truck was built to work in harmony. To Me there is no reason to change anything, doing so throws something off and negatively affects the overall performance of the truck. I have not seen any wheels or tires here or anyplace else for that matter that I think would look better than My stock base wheels anyway. Seems Everybody wants A truck that looks different but not that many RRs in My area anyway.
 

embedded rock

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Anything new to report @GLW? Your RR looks really nice. Could always reduce tire a couple/few psi for a test.
 
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GLW

GLW

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Anything new to report @GLW? Your RR looks really nice. Could always reduce tire a couple/few psi for a test.
Interesting that you mention that.
Had the wheels road forced balanced. That pretty much handled it but still not good enough for me. Kept doing some research and found that Ko2’s and 3’s ride a little nicer with a little less air IF the bed is not loaded up or pulling a trailer. Thus the factory engineered rake and the recommended 39 PSI is designed for the truck doing truck stuff and being acceptable when not. Not to mention squeaking out every MPG possible while still meeting the design expectations.
I do not load the bed and I do not pull a trailer and the MPG have been acceptable to me from day one.

Chalk tested it and ended up at 35 PSI in the front and 33 PSI in the back. Rides and handles better than it did before I messed with it. Lost .2 MPG highway. I’m now glad I did what I did as it looks the way I wanted it to look and drives/feels even better.
Learned a lot too!
 

embedded rock

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Interesting that you mention that.
Had the wheels road forced balanced. That pretty much handled it but still not good enough for me. Kept doing some research and found that Ko2’s and 3’s ride a little nicer with a little less air IF the bed is not loaded up or pulling a trailer. Thus the factory engineered rake and the recommended 39 PSI is designed for the truck doing truck stuff and being acceptable when not. Not to mention squeaking out every MPG possible while still meeting the design expectations.
I do not load the bed and I do not pull a trailer and the MPG have been acceptable to me from day one.

Chalk tested it and ended up at 35 PSI in the front and 33 PSI in the back. Rides and handles better than it did before I messed with it. Lost .2 MPG highway. I’m now glad I did what I did as it looks the way I wanted it to look and drives/feels even better.
Learned a lot too!
Excellent! Good to hear.

Two psi less for the back tires is what I've always done for my pickups. Even the former Wrangler ran with 2psi less at the back. The lower pressure also helps prevent excess wear down the middle while the tires are mount at the rear. Look around parking lots at rear tires of pickup trucks, you can see who doesn't rotate tires.
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